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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
A quick strip and relivery project i have been working on that i thought i would share.



At our Farnham Club we race SCX WTCC as a class and the Volvo S60 is rather good, so good in fact that i started to wonder if the car ever rallied. A few hours later and i stubbled accross the Dutch Volvo Rally Team.

They run a Volvo S60 and a classic Volvo 240 at various Dutch and German events. Further searching revealed plenty of reference photos and links to sponsors (ideal if looking for logos!). The event i picked to represent was their entry in the Rallye Sullingerland 2010 held in Germany.



SCX did a couple of liveries on this car and i recalled that at the time it used a different printing method for the decals - basically one print over the entire model in one hit rather than paint the background and multiple pads on the tampo.



This is how it started life. Stripped off all the seperate parts and dropped the body into a vat of meths. A few days later and one completely clean body! Basically the entire printed surface floated off in several large bits. A few stuborn bits were left, but nothing a tooth pick didn't shift.



The project was put on hold for Christmas, but last weekend i had some rare spare time. Rattle can primer (white - Holts - Halfords) in a tub of warm water, oven on (55 degrees), one dust coat, into the oven for half an hour, second coat, back in the oven and then three coats of Ford Dimond White (again Holts mixed to order from Halfords). Back in the oven for a few hours until nice and dry.



The bumpers and riders were painted by hand in black from Vejello and the interior tackled.

SlotRallyGB rules insist on a driver and at least one navigator so a donor SCX Xsara offered up the figures and one seat for the navigator.



A very gentle application of my wifes nail varnish remover took most of the decals off the glass panels, but i could not shift the front windscreen so painted it white (it will have a white decal over it anyway). The door posts were also spray painted in the same dimond white.

The logos were all sourced from the web, but i struggled with a couple - the main logo rally plate and AutoPics. However a quick email to both the organisers and the company resulted in jpegs and eps logos from both - it goes to show, it never hurts to ask.

Decals are printed (Crafty Papers white and clear) and application of decals starts tonight.

I'll let you know how i get on, the roof is a one peice decal so i'm not looking forward to putting that down!

The chassis will sit on my test bench for several days running in the motor and freeing up the chassis etc.

The only bit i still need to think about are the mudflaps - they need to be painted red, but need to be flexible - i'm using the car in anger. The soft rubber MSC use on the 6R4 is ideal, but the wrong size and to be honest i don't fancy making a donor from that car (a bit expensive) anyone got any suggestions?
 

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A cycle inner tube.......flexible and cut to small size very strong...or bicycle repair patch..poundland. . Gary
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the inner tube suggestion - just found an alternative that was (literally) staring me in the face!

My note book has (or had!) a red plastic sheet (no idea what for) and it's within a shade or two of being the right pantone colour! - sorted.

 

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I had a 24 valve turbo S60 in Sweden, it was pretty awful on gravel, I'm sure Hertz really loved the way the paintwork looked after a couple of thousand miles on gravel roads.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Granted not a well know rally car, but they seem to have it sorted (at least for Tarmac!)

 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
An update;

I have finished applying all the decals, quite happy with the results - the roof was, erm tricky! (what exactly does Decal set/soft do?).


Temporary sitting on chassis.


Interior and windows all done (i know i have made a mistake with the drivers/navigators names - i.e. i made them the same both sides!)





The back end was tricky - lots of small logos and pretty full.



Now i need to find somewhere warm to spray a number of clear coats prior to putting it all back together and giving it a good polish.
 

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QUOTE (JEXY1 @ 2 Feb 2012, 17:24) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>An update;

I have finished applying all the decals, quite happy with the results - the roof was, erm tricky! (what exactly does Decal set/soft do?).

Exactly, I thought it would soften and "suck" the decals into shutlines or stretch slightly over compound curves , but it didnt seem to do anything.

I know we're never going to be able to get to Tampo standards, but there ought to be something in between.....

Simon
 

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QUOTE (SplitRim @ 3 Feb 2012, 10:24) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Exactly, I thought it would soften and "suck" the decals into shutlines or stretch slightly over compound curves , but it didnt seem to do anything.

I know we're never going to be able to get to Tampo standards, but there ought to be something in between.....

Simon

You can often get decals to "mould" and set into shut lines by pressing down hard on them using a cotton wool ball soaked in boiling water as you are applying them.

Wear rubber gloves to stop the chances of getting scalded.
 

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Tom Brown (Scorpus Flex)
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i think decal softener only really works on very thin decals. the self printed ones are a bit thick, but it works like a dream on the blue backed ones you get commercially. Ive even had it put together a decal that had ripped nearly clean in half!

the car looks great by the way the checked roof looks the bomb
 

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Jamie Coles
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Excellent video effects , especially the re slotting bit. Looks like you've solved the issue of marshals not paying attention!!
 

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wow, great repaint & awesome video.

I just did not understood what kind of product you use to remove the original paint. SCX genuine varnishes & paints are really hard to remove, so i'm interested in your tips.

Regards,

Bruno/lanciaB
 
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