SCX Xenon lights not working

Hi

Yeah same problems here = my Cupra lasted about 2 hours before the lights gace up.
I have a Pug 307 by SCX and they flash when i run the car so people have fits when car passes.
I have a Vectra by SCX that only has one working headlight.

On the plus side my Ferrari 360 does still have fully functioning lights.

I suggest taking a hammer to all SCX cars and putting them in several skips and shiping them all back to Spain for recycling!!!!!!!!!!!! BAH!

Is it that the L.E.D.'s burn-out? If so could a resistor be put in the circuit and also should the electrics be wired not railed. I have two new SCX rallycars and before soldering them up I would also like to ask for advice. Sorry about the possible hi-jack. Thanks for any information.

but
but
but

why is is so many times just the left or the right side. and sometimes they stop and then do it again after a pothole or bump in the track

If you are saying that sometimes they mend themselves after a bump, then of course it may be reason 3. A loose connection, however I assumed that people had checked for that.

Hi guys,

It might be not the reason, but all the scx cars, at our club here in holland are racing on 14.8 volts and it goes very great without problems, maby your voltage is just to high
You can not easily repair this scx ligths, it is much easyer to buy a overdrive or a cartrixx or a slot-it light kit voor hornby cars

kevin vonk

14.8 everything is going wel on that voltage

If it helps Rich, i will get the camera inside the pug, once i get home.

I would love to get to the bottom of this, as i love the scx cars, but have always been put off by this unresolved problem.

I believe (as Kevin Vonk) that the voltage is the issue.

Am i right in thinking that the scaley wall warts put out 16v max?
I will see if i can find out what the SCX system put out.

After a quick scout around, i found this on the SCX site..click Products, Accessories, and then the small down arrow near the throttle, until you get the ps.
It says that the wall wart is 14v.
Would 2v really be enough to make a difference?

Thanks Zipp. Yes more data needed if we are going to get to the bottom of this one. Another picture would be nice. Any more pictures / info from other peoples failed boards would also be good.

I have a feeling there may be more than one problem here. With the available data I would guess.

1) From some peoples descriptions it looks like SCX rely on a mechanical contact between the strips and the board, rather than solder. That said the picture looks like it is soldered?

2) Some evidence that perhaps SCX designed to run on a lower voltage. 14.8 Volts versus 16 Volts or whatever a Scaley Wallwart gives out?

However if they are fine on 14.8V & quickly fail on 16V that does not sound like much of a design tolerance to me. So I feel there is more to find out about this problem. Also SCX must know that these cars will be run on other tracks, so no excuse.

Rich

It's not between the strips and the board, but between the strips on the body and the strips on the chassis, so that you can remove the body with out wires connecting the two. I have had this issue on a few of my SCX cars, but also some Scaley too. I have Scaley track running dual wal-warts (16v). The strange thing is, sometimes they come back on or flicker only at full throttle?

newer, not shore how newer, SCX cars have the soldered connections. my wednesday group runs scx rallies w/out magnets at up to 16V and these newer cars have had no problems. those with the 'pressure' connections have all failed. that burnt out thingy shown in the picture is very common.

Yeah i echo that - all my cars rear lights are un affected.
But on mine once they go they go there is no turning them back on.
I did have a Ferrari 550 that had smoke and a burnt out front set of lights but the rest just stopped working.
I run all mine on sclaextric track on a std power supply.