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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First of all, my apologies if this the wrong section to post this query. If it is, maybe a mod/admin could move the topic for me, please?

I have a few cars I'd like to remove some, but not all, of the decals from. In some instances the decals I want to remove are very close to others I want left intact. Am I wasting my time? Or can it be done successfully? I suppose I could give it a try, but one or two of the cars in question are hard to come by these days. The cars in question are SCX, so the decals ought to come off with meths.

Should I just forget it?

TIA
 

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Gerald Lambourn
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Sometimes race organisers would like authentic race numbers, and it's for the model you have just finished for the last race, but it wasn't ready. If they are race numbers try covering with a white disc and then the new number. If it's not varnished it will come off more easily. GeraldL
 

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David J
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Not done SCX but on recent Scalextric models tampo (decals) can be removed by simply scraping them off. Use either a wooden cocktail stick or your finger nail. Done carefully you can be very selective as to which parts you remove and you can get a good finish.

As I said only done this on Scaley so not sure if it will be any good on SCX?? Good luck.
 

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Has anyone removed race numbers from a Carrera without affecting the body colour?
Various solutions remove decals, and I've successfully done that from two AutoArts with brake fluid, but on two other brands, carefully using almost all methods recommended on SlotForum (from meths to toothpaste), I lost the body colour surface. One was a modern Scalextric and the other a modern Revell. Both were silver, which may make a difference.
I'm not asking for general tips, only experience with a Carrera. I would like to retain the body colour (red) and to avoid having to strip parts and respray. I'd just like to remove Mille Miglia numbers that are too long (wide) to cover with a white roundel.
Rob J
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sorry for reviving this old chestnut, but I've hit a problem!

The car is an SCX Altaya Impreza - the '94 4-door Colin McRae RAC rally one. I want to remove the tobacco-ad-ban "()))" tampos and replace them with the non-PC pukka "555" ones, which I have waterslides for.

The problem is that I've tried using meths on a cotton bud, but it's taken off the metallic blue paint and left the tampo!


I guess my only solution now is to completely dip the car and start from scratch. I didn't want to do that as I'll lose the white "Repsol" decals and I can't find anyone selling them.

Any suggestions, please??? I suppose, as a last resort, I could get one of the stickered shells and put the decals on that, but those are bare blue plastic, not the right metallic blue paint.

I know....... I'm too fussy........
 

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Slot King
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2,684 Posts
If you can find a match for the metallic blue.
Spray some clear decal sheet, position over the offending tampo, decals on top of that.

Even if the blue is not a perfect match, the process is easy to reverse when you find a better solution (no damage to the original finish).

Joel
 

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Phil Clayton
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889 Posts
Stu, if you're re-spraying the car, Tamiya TS-50 Mica Blue is the closest to Subaru blue that I've found. For best results use the Tamiya surface primer too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
QUOTE (ThatCorvetteGuy @ 6 Dec 2012, 14:54) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Stu, if you're re-spraying the car, Tamiya TS-50 Mica Blue is the closest to Subaru blue that I've found. For best results use the Tamiya surface primer too.
Thanks very much.
I'll bear that in mind.
 

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Sorry for reviving this old thread yet again. My latest question is related, so I thought it pointless to open a new thread.

I've successfully done some selective decal removal on a Fly Renault 5 Turbo and an SCX Lancer Evo IV. So far, so good.

My latest project involves an SCX Alpine A110. This one has a thick clearcoat.
I want to repaint just the doors and boot lid, so I need to "key" the surface of the clearcoat, but what's the best method?

I've tried meths and metal polish, alternately, but they aren't working. 400 wet & dry would probably do the trick, but I don't want to damage the finish of the rest of the car.

Any ideas, please?
 
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