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I'm about to undergo building a semi permanent SSD track for my son and his friends, and I of course.

At the moment, by the time I've got all the track down from the store cupboard, decided on the track plan, set it up, cleaned the track, added the borders and checked the connections, it can be a good 2 hours before we even press the trigger and start racing. Also I have to take over the Dining Room so I need to ensure that it's all cleared away by Sunday night at the latest. I'm sure there are many readers in similar circumstances like me. So I've finally decided to take the plunge and build my first Semi Permanent Track, after being inspired by some of the builds on this forum.

It's only reading the recent SSD forums that I decided to go with a digital set up instead of the four lane analogue track that I would normally plan, although I have SSD I never felt the speed gave me the full experience of slot car racing, but after hearing about the PB Pro & Simple H mod it definitely seemed the way forward to maximise track length, skill and additional racers. So my PB has had the Simple H mod and I must say well impressed and worth every penny.

So my objectives are to build a track that I can:

Set up and break down fully within 1 hour or less

Be able to fit and store under my Sons Bed

Be able to fit and transport it in the back of my Estate car - possible future use at village hall

Track design that is not to difficult to race for children, but exciting enough for when the lads come round.
Maximise area and track length Potential to add additional track at a later date Pit Lane Facility
Minimum of 3 LC and potential to add or change LC at a later date.
And finally try not to spend too much money!!
My plan is to fix the track onto 12mm MDF spanning an area of 4.5 meters x 1.2 meters. This fits within my dining room, maximising the space to enable a possible 4/6 racers without too much hassle. My initial thoughts are to have 5 x 120cm x 90cm 12mm MDF board which will slot together and be placed on top of trestle style stands. I'm conscious of warping and may consider wooden batons or aluminium channel at a later date, although I plan to store the track flat so hopefully no warping will occur.[/size]

I've played about on track power and came up with some plans and tried them out in real time to make sure the flow and the LC were in the right place. Happy for any guidance or advice just in case I'm missing the obvious.













Due to the limited space and the need to maximise track length I'm looking to base the circuit on an inner city street track, I'm sure this can be achieved with some detail high fencing, advertising boards, side walls, kerbs and road markings, obviously keeping it as practical as possible for racing purposes, and the ease to set up and collapse.

I plan to post regular updates on the progress of the build.

I Think I will be going with Track Plan 1
 

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Just about everyone who gets into this hobby eventually likes to race cars with either less magnet or no-magnet. For that you need borders.

I strongly suggest you redesign to fit more borders, or you'll probably wind up ripping it up and starting again.

Been doing this for a while, just trying to save you time and money. Better to spend a few more $$ now and have a track you'll be happy with longer.
 

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To be honest....

If i was you i would build the "flat boards" and get some tressles to support them...

Any scalextric layout can be built from "scratch" in an hour in that kind of space... unless you want scenery there is little point in "fixing the track" to the board at this stage...

I would build tracks on the board and as your driving skills/number of track pieces/border sections etc increase you will get a better feel for what sort of permanant layout you really want before wasting an awful lot of construction time on something that is quickly outgrown...

Mr Flippant rainer raceway greg's thread is a good example of how much fun you can have with no scenery at all!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the comments, the long term plan is to use the track at the local village hall with friends, as well as the odd weekend at home. I've held a few race meets over the past years for the kids and the Dads and its always gone down well, although the tracks were much larger of a 4 lane analogue scale and it seemed to take for ever getting the connections set up right, ( Did try a SSD race night but this was a complete disaster due to power issues) Thank Riko for PB pro )) so my plan is to have the SSD track fixed for quick set up and with the option of additional track boards that we will add further scope and length when racing at the Hall.
 

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Stage 2

I've managed to get down to the local timer merchant and pick up the 12mm MDF, I had it cut to size, cost a bit more, but I was keen to ensure it was cut straight so when the boards are pushed together they match perfectly.

I was also looking at making my own wooden trestles to drop the MDF boards on but, once I priced up the wood it was going to be way to expensive, I decided to go with 4 Metal Trestle Saw horses which I found on Ebay for £24.49 a pair including delivery (arrived next day) excellent service and would recommend Generics.

Also bought 3 x 2.4m batons to support the MDF across the trestles
http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4039/4642698128_4194d55e1b.jpg

I'm also using the sideboard as a trestle to maximise the room space.(Batons were planned to the correct depth to ensure boards were level)
[IMG]http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4001/4642698290_e8869c750a.jpg

The MDF Boards in place




Did not notice that the dog got in the picture at least now, he won't be able to chase the cars


I'm currently in the process of marking the track to the MDF board, I'm planning on attaching the track via the "Colsy" method by using the injection moulding on the underside of the track. (will post pics and details of this method later this week) I will remove the track lugs from the track sections that will need to be pulled apart to ease the process of setting up the individual boards.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
QUOTE (Spa67 @ 10 Jun 2010, 22:42) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Just about everyone who gets into this hobby eventually likes to race cars with either less magnet or no-magnet. For that you need borders.

I strongly suggest you redesign to fit more borders, or you'll probably wind up ripping it up and starting again.

Been doing this for a while, just trying to save you time and money. Better to spend a few more $$ now and have a track you'll be happy with longer.

My plan is to have the complete track sided with barriers, wheather it's the scalextric armco barriers, Tyre walls or simply cardboard cut to give the impession of side walling. I've seen a few examples on the forums and it all looks very good.
 

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Your trestles are exactly like my folding saw horses. A very flexible way to support a removable table.

You are now underway, so will watch your development with great interest.
I think that the "urban raceway" is probably the least common one seen since most people either go for a race track or a country/targa type motif.

Good luck on your build!

Cheers!
 

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Stage 3

Fixing the Track

I've been looking at various methods of attaching the track pieces to the board and finally decided to go with the "Colsy" method. This seems a very smart and practical way and should, if completed correctly allow the track to expand under temperature conditions

Stage 1

I made a Jig template of each track section that, I used 6mm MDF for the jigs, I then measured and drilled 5 mm holes through each jig so they matched the injection mouldings on the underside of the corresponding track section.



Stage 2

I used 10 mm hardwood dowel cut to around 6mm to make a lug that would then be hammered into the injection moulding, I decided against gluing these in place as the fit was very tight already, although "Colsy" did use all purpose glue. Only time will tell.




Stage 3

I then placed the track in position on the 12mm MDF base board and marked each track section making sure each piece was in the exact position. I then placed the corresponding Jig templates onto the marked MDF board and marked and drilled the holes with a 5mm drill bit. (I also counter sunk the holes on the underside)





Stage 4

The key to this method is making sure that you use the right size screw, as they need to be just the right length to pull up to the board and grip the wooden dowel lugs and not penetrate through the track, but still be able to move in all directions to allow for track expansion during temperature changes. (For my 12mm MDF boards I used Wickes Easy Drive screws 3mm x 20mm they worked perfectly)



Stage 5

At this stage of the build I decided to only hold the track with two of the fixing points as I was conscious that I may have to remove the track at a later stage for further work such as line markings etc. And did not want to cause to much screw damage to the dowel lugs



Quick tip - for some of the one off digital track sections, such as the pit lane changes, I did not make a jig, I simply used a bit of my wife's hand cream and placed a dab on each lug and then pressed down on to the MDF board to mark the position where I needed to drill the holes, perfect for just the odd piece of track.




This method of attachment does take a long time, but I do feel the time and effort is worth it considering how essential it is to ensure the track has movement in all directions.

The other big benefit with this method over others is that you can fill in the edges up to the track hight with material and not have to worry about how to get to the track fixings as you can remove the screws from underneath also if you need to replace track over time this can be done without to much messing about.

Thanks for reading.
 

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Stage 4

Track in-Fill

This is another stage of the build process that I have been scouring the forums to try and find the best solution, I'm not sure if any method is ideal, but I'm pleased with the final outcome that I have been able to achieve with the solution that I decided to go with in the end.

I managed to pick up a bargain at Hobbycraft as they were offering a special 2 for 1 promotion on 3ft x 2ft Poster boards these are boards that have a laminate cover either side and filled with a kind of polystyrene they tend to be used for external posters. At about 5mm thickness they would not be the same depth as the 8mm thickness of the track, so I decided to attach the Poster board by using "No Nails" Glue and pressing it down so it was at the same height as the track, this method is also useful when trying to get the extra height for the digital track as you can just align the board according to the track height.







I placed the track on top of the Poster board and draw a line around the track, I was conscious that I needed to give the track and the board a slight gap to allow for movement and expansion of the track. The Poster board was then cut with a very sharp craft knife along the line, this is very easy and leaves a clean edge to the Poster board.


As my track theme was based around the urban street circuit I was keen to ensure I got a close match on the colour to give the effect that the scalextric track was part of the surroundings. Again after searching the forums and exchanging details of colour makes, I managed to get a near perfect match with a tester tin of "Sandtex" Ultra Smooth Masonry Paint (Black), you need to apply two coats, but in dries very fast so the process does not take that long.. At this stage I have decided not to paint the track, although this may change later.



I have also removed the red and white borders from the Scalextric run offs and cut away a groove in the poster board
and glued the borders slight higher than the track to give the effect of the edge strip found on corners of track



The above picture shows boards 4 and 5 together after having the poster board fitted in place.

The Picture below shows the fitted scalextric barriers








The whole project is starting to get moving and I'm happy with the outcome so far, will look to post further updates later this week.

Thanks for reading.
 

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For ideas for a really nice "urban look" check out Downtowndeco's "Little Monaco". Little Monaco link

It is very effective. I go back to it and to lgl007's Carrera track Carrera urban track often to remind myself of what an urban layout can look like.

Cheers!
Gordon
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Stage 5

Lines

I was keen to add racing lines to the track so decided to use a paint Marker which I bought of Ebay a lot cheaper
than Hobbycraft.

I removed the track from the board, and by using my finger as a guide along the edge of the track I was able to draw a perfect
line around the whole track.



I'm not sure whether to purchase other colours and mark the existing road lines onto the track, will need
to do further research and will wait until all borads are complete.



Pits In Lane Marking





Board No. 3 near completion only another 2 to go.

"Colsy" method after drilling key to this is to ensure that all track lanes meet perfectly between boards



Poster Board Glued in place.





Project is going well although I'm keen to move on so hoping to have all boards complete by the weekend starting
to take over the house slowly. (Wife is not to happy though)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Managed to get a another 2 boards completed this week so thought I would add a few of the pictures.



I've decided to add Red cut through markings to the various bends by using Masonary paint and adding a small amount of builders
sands to give a rough texture, I'm pleased with the result.










One of the boards ready to be attached to the other


The picture below shows the 2nd board attached. Will look to add tyre walls to the run off near the cross over


I plan to add armco barriers to the grey centre part


I started printing the advertising banners that will sit along the side of the barriers and tyre walls.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I had thought about splitting the PB, but to be honest my Electronic skills are not that great and after reading a few topics on the forums where things have gone wrong when people have tried this I feel it's best left alone at this stage.

However,I do plan to add a rounded shelf that the PB will sit on so it's protected from anyone walking into it, I also plan to drill holes in the shelf to allow access for the cables etc.
 

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I also have boards that separate and have wondered whether to have the join right at the edge of the table (+ or -) or to have removable pieces that bridge the table join.
Any suggestions based on your experience to date?

It also looks like you have cornered the market on Scalextric Armco fencing.

BTW, here is a link to Stan's step by step 6 car PB separation project.

Cheers!
 
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