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Googled it to confirm. Steel or Iron will work. Specialist materials are available but are proably not worth it on a slot car. Try just a layer of a magnetic tin can over the motor. Add more layers to possibly get more effect. Idealy the sheet should be 1 or 2mm bigger than the motor but it may not make much effect difference. Basically the irorn short circuits the field so it passes through the iron. Laminations from an old transformer would be ideal, thats what they were designed for. Make sure that you still get adequate cooling for the motor.
 

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It is possible to reduce the motor's pull on steel rails, in a practical slot car it is not possible to remove it completely.
It will have zero pull on a track with copper rails, is that option a possibility for you?

The reduce the motor's pull on steel rails:-
Chose a motor with less magnetic pull.
Increase the ground clearance under the motor.
Fit a thicker steel can around the existing motor - to do much good this needs to go all the way round and not have a ventilating hole in the bottom.

Just putting a flat piece of steel under the motor is more likely to increase the the motor's pull on steel rails than to reduce it. You can play around with the shape and position to get different effects.

Lead and copper will make no significant differance.
 

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Rich Dumas
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You can't really block the magnetism from the motor magnets, what you can do is to reshape the magnetic field. Putting a mild steel plate under the motor will do that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
hi, the reason i asked was, when tuning a no mag car on a home track[ninco sanded flat with wood borders and coated with acrylic silk matt] you still have the mag effect of the motor influencing things. so if you take it to a wood copper tape club track the cars way off. i was looking for a simple way of negating the mag effect, if theres no way i,d better start saving for a wood track. with my income its only going to take a couple of years to save save the money, sigh! but a lottery win would come in handy. all the best john.
 

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Borrow a router and make a simple loop track, this should be good enough for setup, the painted wooden track you race on will have different grip to your Ninco track regardless of motor magnetic effect.
 

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Pull out the steel rails and copper tape the track
 

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QUOTE (stoner @ 16 Dec 2011, 16:13) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>hi, the reason i asked was, when tuning a no mag car on a home track[ninco sanded flat with wood borders and coated with acrylic silk matt] you still have the mag effect of the motor influencing things. so if you take it to a wood copper tape club track the cars way off.
A problem with shielding the motor is that the weight of the shielding could make a differance to the handling anyway.
How similar is your layout to the copper tape club track? Tight and large corners, corners that flow from one to another, corners that open up or tighten, long or short straights - all can make a differance.
How similar is your surface to the club surface?
Both those might be making more of a differance than the magnetic effect of the motor.
Julian's idea could overcome the difference in surface, but not necessary the difference in layout.

Can you try and test some changes on the club track? That should tell you a lot more about what works on that track.
 

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The statement that you cant block magnetic fields isnt quite right. We used to use Mu metal shileds for our photomultiplier tubes used to detect either gamma or neurton flux.

http://www.mumetal.com/about_mumetal.html

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mu-metal

In any case if you are using a stock scaly motor it would probably be generating less than 5g of downforce. Its only when you start using long cans with oipen vents that it starts getting high enough to be noticable. 15 - 20g and above seems to start having a big impact. I know that now, as I was one of the few idiots that chose a short can motor in a US non mag proxy event running on plastic and wood tracks. Every time we come to a plastic track Im down the tail end. Non mag tracks the car tends to be competitive. Very frustrating.

cheers
rick1776
 

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Nobby Berkshire
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Are you sure any magnetism actually reaches the track rails? I know some clever marketing gurus say they make motors that add downfroce magnetism, but very few are close enough to the rails when they are in the car to make any difference at all.

If you have downforce, then just pop a steel or iron plate under the motor. As folks have already said, this will act as a blank. It will concentrate magnetic pull up into the motor, but it's going to be so small that it won't make much difference.
 

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You'd be surprised at how cheap a MDF track can be. It's the scenery that cost the most.

8' x 4' sheet of 12mm at B & Q is around £15 timber to frame it about the same and 100' roll of copper tape is roughly £8
heap routers are £30 - £50, better if you can blag one from somewhere.
It actually works out cheaper than plastic.
 

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Rich Dumas
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My club runs without magnets and all of our tracks are now wood, one of them has Magnabraid. We do a lot of proxy races and the cars turn up with all sorts of motors. Several years ago we were doing a proxy race and right in the middle of the proceedings the track computer gave up the ghost. We moved the race to another club track that at the time was still Scalextric Sport. The cars that had been mediocre at best on the wood track were now front runners. The cars that ran better all had open long can motors. This year we saw the same thing when we did a proxy race on the Magnabraid track.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i,m going to try the MU metal first its only ,004in thick and a 12 by 4jn strip is pretty cheap, other wise its the mdf option for me. it works out a dam site cheaper than a plastic track.john.
 
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