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Alright, so here's my current layout, and some things I've done to modify it and make it better.

I am also into RC vehicles, and I'm into 3D printing (I happen to also own an ender 3 pro). I have designed a few chassis myself, using the factory Carrera go motors, and 130 sized motors. They have full bearings, guide flags (not a pin), and soon to be 3 printed gears for both setups, not just the 130 size motor setups.

I modified the 2 wire power supply connection piece to run with the factory power connection/plunger controller, or you can plug in 2 brushed Electronic Speed Controls and receivers from RC vehicles. Bind them to the RC controllers, and you have wireless controllers with digital throttle input for a more linear and precise throttle. I run it at 12V, as the ESC's are only 3s capable, so they will only run 12 volt (3s is 11.1-12.4V). I will be ordering some 4s capable ones, as 4s in the RC world is 14.8 volts (well 14.8-16.8V).

I'm waiting for the parts to also make two 15v to 8v converter, so I can enable them when I'm using the 130 sized motors, essentially making one ESC run at 2s (7.4-8.4V) when I run a 130 sized motor on that lane, and one ESC to run at 4s when I'm using the carerra or ff-030 based chassis. Since the 130 motors, like in the Artin cars, only run 7.8-9v, and the carrera/ff030 run 12-15v. I'll be able to choose which lane runs at either voltage, as I'll build 2 converters and add a switch to enable or bypass them per lane.

I was going to get some 15 ohm controllers and do power supply changing and all that extra stuff, but I figured out a much easier method to run different voltage cars, and have better throttle control with brake, or drag brake.

I have some really great fully customizable radios where I can control the drag brake and normal braking force, or throttle exponential (throttle curve or punch) and much much more, if I want to get crazy into things control wise, haha.

So, yeah, there's my layout, a coulme of the cars chassis I designed (fusion 360) and printed. How else would I get a sweet NSX? The GTR was an Artin body with a messed up chassis. The rest of the cars are standard carerra go cars.

I haven't gotten to much into these forum yet, so I'm unsure if anyone else has thought to integrate RC controls and motor control to run their slot car setup, but it is possible. And you can go both CW and CCW with my setup. With bridging capable to attach power to other connection pieces. I had 6 plunger controllers, and 2 connection pieces. One connection piece being the 4 wire that I added the wiring to use the ESC's, and the 3 wire one which I rewired entirely to use the keyed controller plugs, and the keyed XT-30 connectors I used to attach to the 2nd pair of free XT-30 connectors I added to the 4 wire connecting piece. When I decide to change the layout again, I'll take some pictures of the changes I made to the 3 wire connection piece, and what I did to the 4 wire one.

I hope you all like it.
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And the white chassis yellow nsx? The chassis has an adjustable wheelbase. I have made some revisions to the 3d model but have not printed it yet. My chassis try to be universal, so I can print whatever body I want and slap em on it with minimal effort. The 130 sized motor chassis is adjustable, just at the 3d model level, unlike the carerra motor based chassis.
 

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Wow! You have really done a lot of work on this setup. Do you do anything special to break in the 3D printed gears?
Nothing outside a quick go over with a small wire brush/clean some spots with a small hobby knife. I print M0.6 pitch gears designed on OpenSCAD, and printing them at a 0.12 layer height seems to work fine. I lower the flow to 95% as well, and I have the printer quite dialed in. A 20mm calibration cube prints to 20.06mm on the X, 20.04 on the Y, and 20.02 on the Z, so they print pretty cleanly. I use PLA when printing them.
 

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Nothing outside a quick go over with a small wire brush/clean some spots with a small hobby knife. I print M0.6 pitch gears designed on OpenSCAD, and printing them at a 0.12 layer height seems to work fine. I lower the flow to 95% as well, and I have the printer quite dialed in. A 20mm calibration cube prints to 20.06mm on the X, 20.04 on the Y, and 20.02 on the Z, so they print pretty cleanly. I use PLA when printing them.
and that's on a 0.4mm nozzle. I find printing at M0.5 they don't quite work out as cleanly. I need to get a 0.2mm nozzle and try some 0.08mm layer heights sometime to see about printing M0.5 or smaller gears.
 
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