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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone,

I plan to give my group some advice in setting up a Sideways GT/ GT3 cars for a plastic track (carrera)
It's about how to prepare these cars for a race without buying&replacing parts, just some spacers.

Just wanna double check if I miss something crucial:
  1. deburr the chassis (entgraten ?)
  2. sand the chassis where the motorpod fits in
  3. true front and rear tires carefully (not too much pressure and keep the temperature low)
  4. align bearings at the rear and glue it to the chassis (super glue)
  5. glue cable to the chassis if they interfere with the front axle
  6. setup front axle, tires should slightly touch the surface on the setup plate
  7. front axle should have 3/10mm space to the upper grub screw and rest on the lower grub screw evenly.
  8. use spacers at the front axle to limit the travel back and forth
  9. set maximum width of front and read axle
  10. you should be able to move the front axle 2/10 mm from side to side.
  11. you should be able to move the rear axle 2/10 mm from side to side.
  12. glue in the motor with hot glue (?)
  13. motor pod movement should be limited. open the screws 1/4 to 1/2 turns
    do not try to adjust ground clearance with motor pod screws.
  14. loosen the body screws more 1-2 turns
Unsure if "straighten the chassis with hot water" should be part of the game.
Would you remove screws from the motorpod? If yes which one?
What do I miss? What do you think is nonsense?

Thanks ;)
 

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It lall depends ,
I actually have another question... are there any rules at all that you have come up with for your members, club riders.
because I can go very far with what you can improve...but does every driver want this, will this mean whether you still have a competitive race
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hi Henri,
I planned to use the DiSCA GT3 Regulations with carrera digital chips for now.
But the gear ratio is set to 11/28, we use baby raptor& baby king, scaleauto sponge tires handed out to everyone.
It's for the people who want to particate with an out-of-the-box car and evolve it later.
So it's basically a minimum that i recommend, to have some degree of fun in a DiSCA GT3 race.
 

· ParrotGod
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I think you list is a good stating point.
You do not need to glue the motor to the pod: there is already a motor screw. In case get another one.
I definitely would straighten the chassis in hot ware: I do this as a default step for all my hard plastic chassis.
I would leave the screws in the motor pod as they are, but I would tape the motor pod to control the floating of the pod.

So if I read your second post correctly, you will sponge tyres: in that case all good.
Overall, the sideways GT3 cars are excellent out of the box.
The only concern I might have is that the 11/28 ratio might be a bit too nervous for running them at 13V.
But maybe you want to test them first and see if you want to lower the power via the RMS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ok so second screw for the motor. (y)
The thing with the tape at the motorpod is something I never did and I guess it really depends how, where and witj which tape you do it. So it's hard to recommend something I have no clue about. ;)
Straighten the chassis is a bit complicated. It's only easy with a metal setup plate and some magnets. Don't think that everyone has one or is confident enough to try. But true, it's a game changer if the chassis is a bad one.(y)

We start with 10v (at the motor) and increase when people got used to it. Carrera digital is a lot harder to drive than oxigen. The throttle curve starts with much more power so getting the car around narrow corners is a challenge (carrera k1).
 

· ParrotGod
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@GRUNZ Any negative experience with sideways chassis and hot water method?
No negative experience.
Make sure that your oven is at 100C. When the water in the kettle is starting to boil, add hot water from the tap to the tray with you chassis to just cover it.
Then move the tray in the oven, and add the water from the kettle.
Do not pour hot water directly onto the chassis.
In all these years (since 2014) I have only ruined one chassis (a scalextric one) because I stacked too many magnets.
 

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One remark about the choice of the motors:
we've done some testing of the Sideways BabyRaptor motors and they are not at all consistent in terms of performance. Although they're rated at 17k, we've seen brand new motors varying between a low 15.000rpm and highs of up to 19.000rpm (12V) - yes, that's a massive 4000rpm difference!
So, with a fixed gear ratio you might end up with some sluggish cars and others that seem to run twice as fast.
This is why we chose to use the NSR BabyKing, which is much more consistent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
True. I measured these motors in a professional laboratory. Fortunately we had only high RPM ones.
As these cars do not reach their maximum speed it is not a big issue. We also test the acceleration before the race.
For official races I would limit it to one kind of motor. But in our group it's ok.
 

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True. I measured these motors in a professional laboratory. Fortunately we had only high RPM ones.
As these cars do not reach their maximum speed it is not a big issue. We also test the acceleration before the race.
For official races I would limit it to one kind of motor. But in our group it's ok.
I would like to know of a good bench(Dyno?) to measure rpm’s and torque, does anyone knows who sells those kind of devices?
 

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Torque can be compared by measuring the amount of watts that a motor pulls at a certain number of revolutions by use of this formula:
Torque (N.m) = 9.5488 x Power (kW) / Speed (RPM)

We've got a device and app at our club that's being used to measure up motors. I'll ask about what's what and get back to you 😉
 

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I would like to know of a good bench(Dyno?) to measure rpm’s and torque, does anyone knows who sells those kind of devices?
I make them, but i dont do Torq, thats far to difficult to make and expencive.
amp will be added in the future, but when I started developing the H&B there was nothing for sale in the whole world. So I started making it myself. 100 sold now.
 

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I would like to know of a good bench(Dyno?) to measure rpm’s and torque, does anyone knows who sells those kind of devices?
I make them, but i dont do Torq, thats far to difficult to make and expencive.
amp will be added in the future, but when I started developing the H&B there was nothing for sale in the whole world. So I started making it myself. 100 sold now.
 
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