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Graham Windle
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With all the intrest on the board at the moment in 60s F1 I thought Id show a slim motor I use in some applications .
Scalex had a slim motor /chassis combo called a power sledge which was basicaly a reworked rx set up , I had a few of these lying about ,the main problems with these motors is the lack of magnetism so unless youve got acces to a damn good remagnetiser they inevitably get hot and loose power so I recycled an old idea and came up with this .



I stuck some mabuchi s can mags on the pole pieces we used to do this in the 60s to the pitman 196 s to help them keep up with the can motors .
I usualy change the armature for a mabuchi as well ,this entails replacing the bearings in the motor .
A lot of work ? yes but gives a slim quick motor,this also works with the atlas /rikobomb type of frame motor but wont work on the rx /mrrc 3poles as they are timed 90 degrees out so wont run.
If you do make one make sure you get the polarity of the mags right or they will cancel out the old mag and stop the motor from running .
 

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QUOTE make sure you get the polarity of the mags right or they will cancel out the old mag and stop the motor from running .
For some reason, this really tickled me, wondering who would be the most likely candidate to fall into the trap!


Grah, spoilsport, it could have made for a much more interesting topic if you hadn't given away that little secret!
 

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The thought occurs that if you replace the arm anyway, the timing of the MRRC motor doesn't matter...
Also, if you have a Mab. arm, Mab magnets AND the original pole pieces, that thing is not actually going to be narrower than an S can itself, right? The difference is that it'll be a little lower, but the original magnet is making it considerably longer.
It's certainly a tried and tested way of getting those old motors going well though.
For space saving inside an F1, I'd still go for the Carrera Go/ Beardog minican with as many mods as you feel up to- see Russell for details. But mine run well enough in a light F1 chassis.
 

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Hi

Another option for these old F2 sledges.... Take a current Neo handling magnet and put it on the BACK of the magnet. Takes that old 75 gauss slug and gives it a 500 gauss shot!

Fate
 

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Finding a motor for a 1/32 scale 60's F1 may well be harder than it looks. A lot of the 60's models had their waist line enlarged simply to get a motor in. Even the Monogram Lotus and Ferrari were wider and deeper than scale.

Cars like the lotus 25, Repco brabham, M4 mcLaren, Brm 261 etc were very much cigar tubes. A true scale body leaves no room for a modern comp motor. The closest I've seen to date are the motors used in the Carrera 1/43 range. They are similar to the motors used in home and car audio equipment.

I have had a degree of luck with HO motors, F1's being very light don't need a massive motor to hurl them along.

Mac Pinch has announced his third series of pre ad GP cars which will include 60's F1's. I am keen to find out what he recomends to propel them.

6o's F1's looked doomed to have bloated bodies until a new slimline super motor is produced.
 

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Phil Kalbfell
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3,373 Posts
Mabuchi do make a suitable motor,see "Hatching the Eagle" the TMM is made by mabuchi but does not have the correct brushes. Maybe some one will eventually order some of these with carbon brushes. 2mm shafts would also make life easier.
Mabuchi

In the mean time start pulling apart old CD ROM drives because some of the older ones had these motors in them,they run pretty good as they are but I don't know how long they will last.
 

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Mabuchi Products

Try looking for toothbrush motors, they have three different types the size of the Moto GP motors, but only one works with 12-24 volts. You could try and contact them and find out which toothbrushes they are in, or see where you could buy them individually.

Lotus
 

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Al Schwartz
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3,378 Posts
QUOTE Mabuchi do make a suitable motor,see "Hatching the Eagle" the TMM is made by mabuchi but does not have the correct brushes. Maybe some one will eventually order some of these with carbon brushes. 2mm shafts would also make life easier.

Actually, I think that the "TMM" is made by someone else - two reasons: It is clearly marked "Made in Taiwan" and, having destroyed one in the process of trying to press on a pinion, I took it apart to find a very nicely made commutator and respectable looking carbon brushes, not leaf brass ones. In addition, although the mounting holes are spaced and arranged like the small Mabuchis, 10 mm either side of center and at a 30 degree angle to horizontal, they are rotated by 120 degrees as seen from the shaft end.

The 1.5 mm shaft is really not much of a problem: 1.5 mm bore 64 dp pinions are a common HO part and 1.5 mm ID, 2.0 mm OD tubing is readily available and makes an effective sleeve.

I only wish I could remember where I found them!

EM
 

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That one only works up to 6 votls.

Is there a way of getting around this, or are you just gonna pump more into it? I tried to use a 6 volt Tamiya motor in a slot car once. It moved 6 inches and smoke began pouring out....

Lotus
 

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Al Schwartz
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QUOTE That one only works up to 6 votls.

Voltage ratings on motors used in slot cars are not really meaningful. Most of the motors used are operating way above their "designed" voltage which typically is speced for continuous operation. When they arrive, I'll test one and see - if I smoke it, it won't be the first time!

EM
 

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Phil Kalbfell
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EM: The two motors I have are different to the one in the pic. The mounting holes are the same,but one only has two holes the other 3,measurements are same but the can looks more like a miniature Fox of Cheetah.Onme also has smaller bearing housing. Both came from Sony CD ROMS! One has Mabuchi part numbers the other does not have any numbers. I would assume from all this that like most things there are always cheaper copies from other sources.

Who is good source of HO Quality gears? No one down here seems to stock them.

Phil
 
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