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When do yoy now eweryting?
Today, I messure on track 2, the inner , and its says 10,10 Volt at full trottle.
TThe aggregat says 12 so I put the stick in and find 11,47!
What should we count? 12 Volt to the track?
Its horrinble sense
Adjust to 12,00 Volt on the aggregat and on the track with full trottle on the Scalextric it will be 10,65. :cuckoo:

But I get some result:
Time on the Scalextrictrack (NSR Moslern 2:62) , (The small Porschen 1:43 make 2:73), all is with doping from Nahe (Riesling)!
And with magnet
;-(
 

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QUOTE (MrFlippant @ 7 Aug 2012, 19:37) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>1) I left that up to the spreadsheet people. I just noted which version of the track I had, and the exact lap times I got. If you want to do the math, then I think the lane length for each is posted in a previous message in this thread.

So the only consideration in the results is the lenght of the track. The surface (not my opinion that it should, but I saw it mentioned) or voltage is not taken into account?

QUOTE (MrFlippant @ 7 Aug 2012, 19:37) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>2) I don't think either is official, but to be closer to the Ninco version, which has no hairpin, you should go with R1. I didn't have any spare R1, so I used my hairpin set which was unused.

Roger that, that´s how i red it also, but I wanted to make sure so the result will be comparable. The inner track of the hairpin is a tiny bit wider then the inner of an R1 and allows maybe a bit more throttle I imagine.

QUOTE (MrFlippant @ 7 Aug 2012, 19:37) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>3) I used stock APB6 as well, with stock PSU (single, since only one car at a time). I don't know what the measurement is, but to be consistent I left power at 100%. You cannot adjust the voltage to the APB by much, but it can be done. To go very low, you need to do a special mod. Otherwise, use the power level options in the APB built-in menus. I could have probably gotten some better lap times by varying power to certain cars, like the fast motor cars, but I wanted to eliminate as many variables as possible.

But the voltage on the different PSU:s varies quite a lot, even with the same brand as Scalextric so the performance of the cars will be quite different if the voltage is not regulated I think? I haven´t measured the voltage on the actual tracks like Lasp has done in the post above, since the APB always have delivered enough juice, it has actually never been a concern to me. But the specs put it at 15v x 4 Amp. Lasp measured his Sports Digital A-type Powercontroller yesterday, and measured it 10,65v according to his post above. Turns out that Power controller has a bridge rectifier built in that eats up around 1,4v (according to a fellow Swedish slot forum member). I imagine the APB does not loose that much since the design is a bit more modern... and then we might actually talk a difference in power of 3,5-4,5v in the worse case.

And that´s from the same manufacturer.

Ok, so the main point of the track is maybe to create a reference for comparing cars. The math does not need to be solid enough to send a probe to Mars. But the idea to be able to compare times or even do proxy races all over the globe on at least good enough fair equality really turned me on. It opens up a whole new can of fun and possibilities.


But I imagine we need to find out a way to regulate the voltage, or at least find a decent enough common setup (as you say, limit the APB or...) between the different brands/models.

Is it possible? Or is there easier ways maybe? Solving it through math doesn´t feel right either since the performance will effect how the car handles also and not really give comparable numbers.
 

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Greg Gaub
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I think it's not really possible. The only way to truly and accurately compare cars is to put them on the exact same track, and have the exact same preparation, but even then you only get a reasonable approximation, as cars from the same maker and of the same model and spec will perform slightly differently due to manufacturing tolerances. Some gears are smoother, some wheels are rounder, and some motors are quicker, even for the exact same cars and parts.

So, just make a note of all the information about your track as you can so that anyone reading your results with a different setup will know that the numbers for those cars on their own setup might be slightly lower or higher. As I noted in my long post about my results, there are MANY MANY things that affect the performance of the cars on a track, not the least being the amount of traction each set of tires is able to achieve on that track at that time of day at that time of year. ;-) For example, for a car with silicones to do exceptionally well, the track must be spotlessly clean, but for a car with rubber tires to do its best, the track must be used and "rubbered in". You can't have both in the same day, so you take what you get. ;-)

Finally, this has become less about a firm comparative estimate of car performance than it is a fun way to challenge each other on a remarkably similar and simple layout. Just have fun, post your times, and swear that your car on my track would have beat the time I got. ;-)
 

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Greg Gaub
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Hehe, yeah, that's cool! Not technically routed, but close enough. First one! Good job!
I look forward to pics of the finished product and some test reports.
 

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Mr. Olufsen
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Lasp, I completely missed post no. 265, nice work. Did you finish it, and how does it work? I finish my extruded PVC borders with acrylics and acrylic varnish, and in my opinion they 'rubber in' fast and offer decent traction.

Looking forward to hearing more!

Good luck with your test track, and thanks for bumpin' this thread, Snake.
 

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Life, as building slotcartracks, are a question on wawes mowement!

Sometimes is up and sometimes its realy down.

For ower a year I have made some changes.

I am going for the carrera track, both analog and digital.

And I also hav tryed and testad some (7) cars of MagRacing Types. I like that but are missing the timing solutions.

I will now take a time out too consider what is important! I found out! My heart.

But the track works very vell and I still build Large pieces of tracks.

Tanks for asking and wathing for at the BilBaneForumet I am not welcome with the tooths of MagRacing! ;-( Sadly says Lasp
 

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Greg Gaub
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I thought the MagRacing lap counter/timer was already available. Lacking that, I can see how the system would lose some appeal.
Carrera is a great choice, though the Carrera version of the test track isn't quite the same. As long as you get actual lane length, lap times can still be sort-of compared using actual average speed or something. You could even toss in some 1/24 numbers.
 

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Mr. Olufsen
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Lasp, thanks for the follow-up, I would have loved to see that PVC track finished!.

Yes, I know you have been looking into magracing. it looks fun and technically very appealing, but I understand the shortcomings.

You are correct, get the priorities right. Mind your heart.

All the best from Denmark.

Christian
 

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Nice topic. And congratulations, Mr F, for your 2.498s with the P68. In your video it seems like goes with mag, but I know that car goes well without.

I Just tried home with my scaley track. Standard analog power unit and horrible stock controller. No mag.
My classic cars (NSR MkII and MKIV) stops the clock to 3.01s with NSR 5209 tyres
I tried also a NSR clio with AW motor (17k Baby king), the best way to have fun in small tracks... but I score not less than 3.42.
It seems that that motor needs different sensivity that a standard analogue controller cannot give.
Tomorrow I will try with the digital APB, just to know the differences.
 

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I set up the test track this evening, unfortionately it was not totally flat, it was controlled by an APB C7042



These are the results I got
Scalextric Rover SD1 Police car (wider rear axle, wheels and tyres) 5.6
Scalextric Ford Focus (standard) 5.4
Scalextric Audi Quattro 4wd (standard) 4.8
Scalextric Lamborghini Diablo (standard) 4.7
Scalextric Jag XJ220 (standard) 4.7
Team slot Lancia Stratos (standard) 4.1
Scalextric Mini Cooper digital (standard) 3.7
Scalextric Audi TT digital (standard) 3.6
Scalextric Jag XKRS (standard) 3.6
Scalextric Aston Martin DBR9 (standard) 3.5
Scalextric TVR speed 12 (bigger magnet) 3.5
Scalextric LMP Peugeot 908 (digital) 3.2
Scalextric Pro Performance Audi R8 (20000 rpm motor, lowest gearing) 3.1
Scalextric Mclaren/Hamilton (standard) 2.7
Scalextric Pro Performance Lola Aston Martin (20000 rpm motor, lowest gearing) 2.7
Gslot Honda NSX Raybrig (standard) 2.5 (Aren't these meant to be rubbish?)
Scalextric Start LMP (pro performance 25000 rpm motor, lowest gearing, wheels and tyres, bigger magnet) 2.1

The results are quite interesting, I'm sure with some preparation and the track on a flat surface I can beat these times.
I tried my 1980s Porsche 911/935 but I was having trouble with it tripping the timing sensor, it only seemed to work 1 in 9/10 times.
 

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Greg Gaub
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QUOTE (UDoKuoio @ 1 Jan 2014, 07:57) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Nice topic. And congratulations, Mr F, for your 2.498s with the P68. In your video it seems like goes with mag, but I know that car goes well without.

Thanks. Yes, NSR cars are especially suited for magless on smooth tracks like Sport. With a clean track, trued and glued tires, and properly cleaned tires, they're pretty hard to beat. I don't think I did the full oil and lighter fluid treatment before running it on the test track. I might have been able to shave a tenth or two off if I had done.

QUOTE (UDoKuoio @ 1 Jan 2014, 07:57) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I Just tried home with my scaley track. Standard analog power unit and horrible stock controller. No mag.

Twitchy cars like NSR and slot.it will definitely benefit from better control or even just power reduction. I bet you can get better times with the digital controllers through the APB, but even better if you turn the power down a little to make them easier to manage. Or, hook up a computer and use a nice s-curve type throttle curve.

QUOTE (turbofrenzy @ 5 Jan 2014, 13:45) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I set up the test track this evening, unfortionately it was not totally flat, it was controlled by an APB C7042
The results are quite interesting, I'm sure with some preparation and the track on a flat surface I can beat these times.
I tried my 1980s Porsche 911/935 but I was having trouble with it tripping the timing sensor, it only seemed to work 1 in 9/10 times.

I was surprised to see how uneven my track was when looking at the POV video. Flat and smooth will probably help magless cars a bit.
Tire and track prep also make a huge difference. I'm sure you can beat all those times with a good dusting of the track and cleaning each rear tire on the car prior to running it.
As for the Porsche, it's probably guide color (must be black!) or depth. If it's not a color issue, see if there's any way to raise the front wheels, or lower the guide. In some cases, you might need to replace the guide with a deeper one.
 

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What version of the APB's firmware are you using ...... v0.85 was the default ....... v1.09 is the latest and best .....
 

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QUOTE (Ade @ 5 Jan 2014, 23:52) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi
All cars need black guide flags and motors over 25k usually end up with cooked chips.

Hi Ade
All cars have original black guides. What chips will I cook? All tests were done in analogue.

QUOTE (MrFlippant @ 5 Jan 2014, 23:56) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I was surprised to see how uneven my track was when looking at the POV video. Flat and smooth will probably help magless cars a bit.
Tire and track prep also make a huge difference. I'm sure you can beat all those times with a good dusting of the track and cleaning each rear tire on the car prior to running it.
As for the Porsche, it's probably guide color (must be black!) or depth. If it's not a color issue, see if there's any way to raise the front wheels, or lower the guide. In some cases, you might need to replace the guide with a deeper one.

Hi MrF
The video isn't mine, but my track wasn't flat either, it was set up on my old inclined base board very quickly just to get some idea of times.
The only prepping done was a quick wipe with a damp cloth.
The Porsche's guide is the standard old black job.
What I might do is set it up on the living room floor when Madame is at work


QUOTE (GregK @ 5 Jan 2014, 23:56) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>What version of the APB's firmware are you using ...... v0.85 was the default ....... v1.09 is the latest and best .....


Hi Greg
I'm still on v0.85, I'll look at upgrading when I've a moment, I'm not even sure how you do it. I don't think that's the problem with the Porsche.

Thanks all
 

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- I have the same Porsche and it doesn't miss any laps. Does it work perfectly if you drive slowly or push it over the line? Are the braids tidy & flat, as the front axle is quite high and the car rests fully on the braids and the wheels never touch the track.
More importantly, it looks like you have an incline at the powerbase due to the piece of wood supporting it - that could be enough to flip up the front of the car so the guide misses the sensor especially as it's a pre-magnetraction car. Also, the PB trackpiece is slightly thicker than the standard track pieces.

- Good to see the old test track getting some more action. Have you tried Essence F for cleaning the tyres (like lighter fluid). Also, running them over some duct tape just before a hot lap makes a big difference. Some swear by oiling the tyres but I don't find it makes much difference.

- The C7042 firmware upgrade to v1.09 is almost essential for reliable digital running as it changes and improves the sensor detection amongst other things, but you need a special cable (with expensive components in it) to connect to a PC. Forum gurus RichG & RikoRocket make & sell the cable. It also used to be sold by SlotandGo in Paris but sadly they've just closed, and Mondialtec sometimes stock it. It's the same one that's also used to connect to the PC for the race management software systems like RCS64, PCLapCounter, SSDC & RCD - loads more info in the SSD forum.
 
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