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Slot.i SCP-01 Controller in N-Digital

3162 Views 10 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Nbase
Hi, my dear friends.

Somebody is interested in powering his SCP-01 with external source, PS, 9v battery, Video cam. battery... to use it in N-D?


Overcoming blowing up threat and connect both controller and console using the order you want?

It's quite easy. Throw away red cable.

But I won't spend my time explaining the way , if all of you already threw your SCP-01s into the rubish bind
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Sorry.... my bad English...

Somebody is interested in powering his SCP-01 with external source, PS, 9v battery, Video cam. battery... to use it in N-D?

Is there anybody interested in powering.....?

It's quite easy. Throw away red cable. (Connecting both controller & console GND through phone jack)
Can you post pictures of how you did it? I sold my Slot It digital controller because of the risk involved.

Best regards,
I don't think you should ask for interest in this kind of thing. Just post it! A lot of people have been put off by the risk of using one and plugging it up wrong, so if your mod eliminates the extra cable AND removes or reduces the risk of damage, then PLEASE post it. The SCP1 is a great controller that everyone should feel comfortable using with their set.
La seva Anglès està bé! These are the two issues that keep me away from this controller. By all means, show us how to do it.
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I'll take some pics and post them.

It's quite easy.

1- Powering: Only replace red cable by an ordinary 9v battery connector.

2- Grounding connection: Controller print works with a voltage regulator to 5 v, the same as Ninco console.

We must set the same GND reference to both prints: Every print has +5 stabilized volts respect to their respective sources.

Ninco console print: +5v is black wire in RJ9 phone jack (take a look at your original Ninco controller)
SCP01 controller digital cartridge print: I'll show you where get +5v.

Notice that in SCP01 Ninco cable, this wire is missing (not connected on RJ9 phone jack)

The work consists in removing RJ9 jack and crimp another one including the red wire from RJ45 inside the digital cartridge. The trouble is that red wire has to be placed in unnatural position on the other edge of cable, beside the blue one (Trigger position).

Into the digital cartridge you must weld a little wire from a +5v level point to the RJ45 pin corresponding to red wire.

This wire, the red one, will be the way for equipotential Controller-Console grounding reference.

There are other ways to do it, it's up to you, decide.

I tested the wrong sequence of connection order to the console several times, even removing the 1K resistor welded on lane change wire (green), on the second Ninco SCP01 cable edition where solved the problem of blowing up, and the console remains in perfect condition. I think it's better to keep the resistor on.

I don't know how many hours can work SCP01 using an ordinary alkaline 9v battery. If somedody use this powering system for other digital systems could give us this information.

To keep in mind, obviously the controller doesn't work if it isn't powered (hall sensor and chips) and when the battery it's in its final life and can't supply power enough the car loses control.

Some pictures later... or tomorrow ....

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Powering the SCP1 from a normal 9v battery can give you hours of use. I never got an actual time when I did it because I would stop playing and leave the battery connected. It would drain overnight because the controller uses that small amount of power the entire time it's plugged into the power source. If you get the v1.1 SCP1 handle, it can function at a lower voltage, which will make a 9v last even longer (since the controller can still function as the battery power drops). With SSD, I don't have to ground the power to the console, though, so didn't have that issue to deal with.
Thanks Flip.

What is v1.1 SCP1 handle?
It's just an update to the controller handle. It can run at lower voltages, close to 6 volts than the 9 required by the current controller. It also has some other minor changes. I think there is more information about it in the forum somewhere.
Homoslot, this is a nice workaround for the problem with the Ninco PB.
Know that you will not have to tackle this problem when you use the Nbase.

If you would use the SCP on the Nbase I would recommend you to have common ground.

I 'll check if you could feat the SCP from the Nbase, then there will be no need to use a PS for the SCP controllers.

Can anyone tell me how much current the SCP needs to work (in any condition) ?
Here is more info about the differences between version 1.0 and 1.1

Thank you for purchasing this controller. Before starting, please make sure you have read all the instructions carefully.
The complete manual for the 1.1 version can be downloaded from the web site; this additional sheet explains the differences between the SCP-1 1.0 (original version) and the 1.1
(released December 2010)
Externally the 1.1. version can be told by the '1.1' writing under the 'SCP-1' writing in the front sticker.Technically, the main differences are:

1. Power supply range: 6 - 24V. (was 8.5 - 24V). This improves the SCP- 1's behaviour when used untethered, with batteries, as well as being better when used with unstable supplies.
2. Dual power supply: cable from the cartridge, or USB type connector near the top (telemetry interface)
3. A red/green bicolor LED indicates both the Min and Max positions of the trigger.
4. Improved and easier regulation of braking.
5. Better linearization of curves.
6. When used with the oXigen cartridge and digital system: Selective Lane Change.
7. Magnetic field / trigger angle base curve reprogramming .

All the rest of the information can be found in the SCP-1, version 1.1 manual, on the web site. We advise downloading the SCP-1 spreadsheet and software simulator as well.

Original document: SCP-1.1
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