This is how I do it - it might not be the best way or easiest way but works for me:
1) put the guide back in the holder
2) put the grub screw in the tool you are using for screwing it in so that is ready when you need it
3) slide one of the braid in from the top of the guide until the 90 angle is still visible
4) now put the wire next to the braid face looking forward
5) slide the braid with the wire inside the guide until most of the braid is in
6) now put the grub screw in: the grub screw should be sitting between the guide and the braid
7) repeat from 2) for the other braid/wire

The idea is to let the grub screw bite on the braid instead of the strains of the wire so that they will not be cut off by the grub thread.

 

not wishing to state the obvious...and I have never seen one of these....but to quote the old Haynes car manuals , "assembly is the reverse of removal"...I know , that was never much help either! wouldn't you think someone would come up with a connection that would just "click" into place? (if anyone does I'll just take 50% in intellectual rights

)

 

Thanks Gio, very helpful. Still pretty fiddly but think your way is the easiest, managed to get it back together.

018 by chris nichols

Now these fell out at some point during taking car apart and putting it back together, any ideas where they come from, are they important?
Car went back together fine without them, but I'm guessing they must serve some function?

 

They are the supports under the front axle - lots of us lose them anyhow and use grub screws to get the axle height just right....

 

Thanks for clearing that one up for me.

 

slot.it and NSR cars can be quite "intimidating" the first times after getting used to scaley cars.

Have you got a slot.it LMP yet? The latest releases have a guide that seems to be designed by engineers at NASA. You really need a manual for these ones

 

Your guide originally had little ferrules to hold the wire in, they just push into place. They eventually work loose and get replaced with the grub screws. Yours has already been done. I do all of mine this way and have never had one pull loose.

 

I can understand why many convert to using grub-screws, but you can still get a reliable fit using the ferrules. I switched to NSR ones as they're a slightly tighter fit and have never had one pull loose, either - even on cars that have run 24hr endurance races.

IMHO, I'd say that there are minor pros and cons to each method, but neither offers a significant advantage over the other - the best one to use is likely the one you find easiest to assemble and maintain.

 

I can never decide whether to put the motor lead grub screw side of the braid or have the braid next to the grub screw with the lead tight to the front of the guide's slot. Either way, the leads work harden and start to break after the third time the braids are replaced.

 

As Jay said, I personally prefer to work with the grub screw.
Martyn, how often do you change the braids on your cars?

 

...LoL - but, that's not what Jay said. Jay switched to NSR ferrules.

Jay.

 

Oh, I mean that is a matter of personal preferences.

 

It varies, usually when they start to fray badly and often before an important race. Probably two or three times a year on my championship runners, much less on others .

 

When I need to replace braids the grub screw comes out and a ferrule replaces it ... works best for me.