Slot.it High Amp Cartridge SCP201g Inline Glass fuse

556 Views 30 Replies 3 Participants Last post by MrFlippant, 3 mo ago

Tuner 28

Discussion Starter · 3 mo ago

There is an inline fuse on this cartridge. During our enduro Sunday it failed. I had the same type glass fuse from another controller that installed.
I made the mistake of throwing out the factory supplied fuse before checking the rating, I was in the middle of the main heat.
If you have this cartridge can you check the fuse rating and post it?
Thank you,
Bob

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MrFlippant

· #2 · 3 mo ago

The one I just pulled out of mine says F20AL250V but I can't say with 100% certainty that's what it came with. I looked on the slot.it site and couldn't find a manual that specifies what it comes with.

Tuner 28

Discussion Starter · #3 · 3 mo ago

Spoke with Allen at 1/32 he confirmed its a 20 amp.
Added a 3D printed fuse holder with extreme grip tape, it even matches the case color!

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Dingleberry

· #4 · 3 mo ago

Nice. But I think the Hi Amp cartridge has a resettable fuse, not a glass one that is replaceable... is that correct? I know in all my cartridges they have this replaceable fuse that you're looking for - which are not Hi Amp cartridges.

Tuner 28

Discussion Starter · #5 · 3 mo ago

Definitely a replaceable glass fuse

MrFlippant

· #6 · 3 mo ago

Even their "regular" analog carts have replaceable glass fuses, since the beginning I believe. Some also have self-resetting fuses. Which fuse trips or blows depends on what caused the overload to begin with. What you replace them with depends on which cart it is.

Tuner 28

Discussion Starter · #7 · 3 mo ago

The saga continued but is now fixed. After replacing the in-line glass fuse, hook my controller up to the track. When I switched it on, I noticed both LEDs were eliminated, and “PT” was is displayed. Indicating I needed to program the trigger. Since I was at a friends house, I quickly pulled up the manual from the webpage. I went through the steps and reprogrammed the trigger. I had used a 5 V battery plugged into the micro USB port during the reprogramming. Back at the track I hooked up the controller, switched it on, and PT was still displayed at this time I could pull the trigger and the motor in the car would run erratically. So with the controller still hooked up to the track, I switched it off. I held down the three buttons switched the power back on. I released the buttons. I pressed the round brake button, and now the controller worked as it should. I will have to connect the controller to the app and verify the firmware version, and if the break is still set to the Linear mode.

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MrFlippant

· #8 · 3 mo ago

The controller will tell you what the brake mode is set to. Just turn it on and watch the status LED scroll by. At the very end it will say something like "bRk : DEFAuLT" or Linear. If the firmware is up to the latest version and you set it to Linear, it should remain so until you use the app to change it back.

When you race, is your track/controller dead until the timer begins, e.g. a "dead start" or are the controllers live during the countdown?

Tuner 28

Discussion Starter · #9 · 3 mo ago

Our tracks are “Dead Start”, why do you ask?

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Tuner 28

Discussion Starter · #10 · 3 mo ago

I continue to learn the controller and understand the cryptic messages.

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Tuner 28

Discussion Starter · #11 · 3 mo ago

I checked and the brake is in default so i connected the controller to the app the feature to select linear is missing! I verified the version of the app is 1.6.4 and the controller is 3.16h. Anyone have an idea?

MrFlippant

· #12 · 3 mo ago

You might need to scroll the options section. If your phone is note huge, there's too much information to show without scrolling.

MrFlippant

· #13 · 3 mo ago

Tuner 28 said:
Our tracks are “Dead Start”, why do you ask?

I've noticed a fraction of a second lag on power up as compared to pure analog controllers. It doesn't effect the outcome of the race, and I expect it to be resolved with firmware, but just wondered if you noticed the same.

Tuner 28

Discussion Starter · #14 · 3 mo ago

Screen shot

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MrFlippant

· #15 · 3 mo ago

Ah. It's not properly connected, then. Back out and make sure it shows as "online" in the device list. This can take several seconds. Then, go to info and connect again. Are you using an Apple or Andoid device?

Tuner 28

Discussion Starter · #16 · 3 mo ago

Hi Greg
The screen looks the same connected.
let try again
Bob

MrFlippant

· #17 · 3 mo ago

Yeah, I've gotten that screen as well from time to time. If it keeps doing it, restart the phone so that it clears out any buggy bits in memory, and then try again. The option should definitely appear in that empty space, but as you can see, other device info is blank. The app didn't get a complete connection, but thinks it did.

Tuner 28

Discussion Starter · #18 · 3 mo ago (Edited)

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MrFlippant

· #19 · 3 mo ago

You don't need to keep posting screenshots of nothing. We believe you.

I get that it SAYS it's connected, but the lack of data and options indicates that it's not REALLY connected. Clearly, there's a bug somewhere that is recurring for you and your hardware.

When you turn the controller on, does the LED display show the correct version?
And again, are you on Apple or Android?
Have you made sure location/gps services are on?

Tuner 28

Discussion Starter · #20 · 3 mo ago

Hi Greg, you were correct I did not have it connected correctly. I would’ve thought after doing this so many times I would understand how to get it in Bluetooth mode to use the app.

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