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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
tin the braid
make a hole
flatten out the wire
solder the wire, use thin wire , i usedNSR thin white.
trim any excess wire off
make sure the braid with wire is as flat as possible
pull the braid through the guide until the wire is in the slot at the back of the guide.
make sure the wire is pointing at 90 degrees to the guide, so it clears the guide mount.
solder the other end of the wire to the motor.
its very fragile at the guide end, ive tested the chassis on track about 50 laps (body off) and it seems to last.
it has to be low in the nose to be able to get the return on the guide and not foul the body.
make sure you have plenty of wire up front so that the bend is on the wire and does not put any stress on the solder joint.
solder the wire to the motor last as it gets really tricky if you dont.
it took a while to get this right and several sets of braid that got messed up in the process
see pics





 

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is it not possible, due to clearance problems to just put the bare wire ends into the slot at the front when you push the braids in. john.
 

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Ian
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99 Posts
The how to is on line Slot.it Guide Mine is similar to Petes, however I've removed the more of the cable sheath to allow movement of the cable under the nose.
Plus a very small dab of superglue to hold cable flat to the chassis and as far away from the guide as poss to try and get the guide to self centre.
 

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hi Stoner
if you tinned a longer section of braid to allow you to force it down the guide with the extra thickness of the wire it could work.
However the front really has no space (between guide and body and the guide mount rib at the front) ,the wires would have to come in at the back of the guide and pull the braid through the guide.
The extra thickness of the tinned braid would keep the braid in place and hold the wire tight.
Might try that next time actually
we may have to wait till the LOLA is released to see how its done, from the spy pics i see they use the normal SLOT IT red silicon wire... to me it seems too thick [the wire] to get it to work nicely and leave the clearance required between it and the body.
Anyway we will see !
 

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Tel
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I would add, don't solder the wire that goes into the braid/guide.
I found it would break after a while, so I tinned the braid, made the hole, twisted the wire tight and fed through, so far so good and still holds the wire in tight.
Like Ian, I strip back the wire about 25mm (you lose 6-8mm in the fold under the braid and a trim). this doesn't look that good, but helps ease any catching. I did try glue it in place to see if it helped self centre, but it didnt help for me .
 

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Ian
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Mark,
Thanks for the link not sure what happened to mine?????


Tel,
Sorry the glue idea didn't work for you that's whats great about these forums we'll get the best best options being developed.

Ian
 

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Tel
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I have managed to get a self centre working, but as my bodies are drying off, I am unsure if it's going to clear everything yet ! fingers crossed !
 

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Tel
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Hmmm .. ok I cut back 23mm of sleeve from cable and twisted it up tight inserted into guide as I mentioned above and used blu-tack to secure the wire to give some tension as per picture (turned guide full lock and blu tacked the tightest wire, repeat for other side).
It works, but it takes a bit of time and trial and error to get the right point depending on your wires tension, hence the use of blu-tack for easy adjustment !
I also used a rubber body mount grommet to help with clearance, although I want to try and see if I can do it without it next time I get to "play"


Currently one is working fine, the other is not !




 

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Tel
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I found I can do away with the grommet
, It does help to lightly grease the wire and inside of the shell around that area.
Its not as positive as the "normal" guides at self centering, but it is a lot better than none

Alternativley, using the NSR ultra thin wire, this also works:



Maybe Slot It needs to make some 1-1.2mm diameter thin wire too
 

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Hi guys,
it seems to be a real problem with the wires.
In germany the Lola isn't released yet, but I have pre-ordered it at my dealer.

I am member in a slot racing club and we are racing on a routed wooden track. We all use the SICH07 guide for wooden tracks in our cars.

When I see the pictures above, I fear to get a bigger problem than the wiring, because of the plastic "bridge" between the guide screw and the front of the chassis. (Sorry for my english, "bridge" is possibly not the right term).
The SICH07 has the brass eyelets at the front of the guide. I think, when the guide rotates, the wires will become contact with this "bridge".
Does have anyone experience with the SICH07 and the Lola?
 

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Tel
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You are correct Grek-1.
The lola has a new guide type and the sich07 will not fit without modifying.
Even if you remove the bridge, there is not much room under the nose of the car to allow a normal guide to rotate freely with wires in place.
Slot.It will have a new type screw in wooden track guide made in a few months, but I did try mine at the club with the standard guide wired as above and it worked ok.
If you can find a suitable screw to use in the top to prevent the guide unclipping without interfering with the rotation can benefit, as testing at home I did manage to over rotate the guide a couple of times.
 

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QUOTE (Savage @ 10 Mar 2012, 08:50) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Slot.It will have a new type screw in wooden track guide made in a few months,

Oh my god! I know what Slot.It means, when they say that.
Two (!) years ago, while I was still racing SSD, I asked Maurizio, when the SSD Chip SP15 will be released. He said it will come soon! It isn't still released yet, I think?

How shall we race with the Lola until then?

BTW: Where do you guys get the new Lola from? I didn't find any dealer who has it in stock?
 

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Tel
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I think this Summer is the aim for the new guide.
It does drive very well on the supplied guide on wood tracks, but for sure the extra depth will be welcome

I got mine as seperate white body and chassis from Italy, although I believe the first liveried car should be out this month.
 

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use a short (2 or 4 mm) M2 grub screw in the space provided in the guide post, that will tighten the fit of the guide post in its mount.
Also i clipped the top of the guide post so i can actually get it out, else its virtually impossible to remove once fitted.
by clipping i mean remove some of the rim around the top
see original pics at top for grub screw and clipping.
will post a better pic later today.
cheers
Peter
 

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Hi Slot.it,
what in your developement does take a few months constructing a new guide for wooden tracks for the Lola?
 
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