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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Having finally received my long awaited Nissan(s) and posted on their appearance in stock form ...
..they may stay like that until we return from Rockingham's Tres Petit Le Mans...but def not much longer...
... as the #23 car will be raced by my team @ Suzuka in the DiSCA GT3 race of Jan 29th 2022.
So this topic will be on how we'll prep the car(s) to DISCA GT3 spec, meaning chipping it adding lights (that will be fun)
And the fabrication of some flexible lightweight components (vacformed interior & windows, laser cut rubber rear wing mounts)
Team might even have even a certain Italian guest driver. ( and no this time that's not Grunz)

Tire Land vehicle Car Vehicle Wheel


Hard Nut to crack.

This specific Italian gentleman has given me a very hard nut to crack, cause when I check the reference pictures of this exact car...
...and compare it to the Slot.it car, I can only find some extremely small areas where I can possibly improve the stock car.
More than happy to extend the black on the side skirts, as reported masking on stock car not really a match to the fine finish of the rest of the car
Wheel Tire Vehicle Car Automotive tire


And there are the solid rearwing supports, these can be lasercut from rubber with some of the openings of the 1/1 wing.
Can also extend the slots for the supports further down the trunk, will give the rubber supports even more room to "Flex"
But look at the detail, Tail lights surrounds painted in correct color...even that embossed Nissan logo is represented on the Slot.it car

So..make note, add red tow band and some mesh in the lower grille. Rear window seems to have a split frame underneath (decal?)
The only thing that looks a bit "off", is the back end of the roll cage...but haven't been able to score good ref pictures of it.
Wheel Car Tire Vehicle Automotive design


Chassis
DiSCA GT3 rules have a more (box) standard approach , so no trick pod mounted diffuser on this car.
Stock screws already replaced with SV Workz Titanium M2.2. Side suspension will be fitted.
Not clear yet if 1,0mm Offset Evo pod will give 1,8mm Ground clearance under motor with 20,8mm ø Scaleauto Procomp wheels.
Regs require running Scaleauto Baby Sprinter motor, hope that won't piss off "Italian guest driver" too much.
But then again Pace car he will also drive will be fitted fully with stock parts...including stock traction magnets :oops:
Yep you read it right, Traction magnets, nobody is going to bump the Official Pace car off the track on the formation lap(s), as previously happend at Le Mans 😇

Oxigen
O201C chip obvious choice here, testing will determine if it should be mounted longitudinal or transverse (weight distribution)
Good thing about running that big GT-R is...plenty of real estate on chassis for either configuration.

Body works
Side skirts will be cut of chassis and glued to body, most likely will do the same for the front splitter to allow independent set-up of body and chassis.
4 small Body supports will be mounted in body right in front of rear wheels and behind front wheels.
4 grub screws will be added in chassis underneath to adjust ride height. Been there done that...doing it next month
Dive plates are integrally moulded with the body, pretty sturdy too...will have to see how those will withstand the challenges of Digital racing.

Stock body now at 23,7 total. Vac formed but detailed interior should save 3,5- 4,5 grams off. Not too much gain expected from vacformed windows...
...as plastic windows are already at minimum. So estimate maybe 5 -6 gr max from total vacformed parts.
Which mean there will stil be a lot of (careful) dremeling & scraping to get the whole body down to 14-15 gr...so there's room enough for.....
Automotive lighting Product Black Motor vehicle Font


Light(s)..let there be
Estimate 3,5 gr needed for SP44 light kit to power plenty of LED's, Slot it has moulded front lights as separate parts, so these can be done off the car.
The only Jazz I might be able to add will be some pretty purple led light peeking through the front grille.
That is unless DrC and Flag Slot manage to get their "functional LED Number/ Position Display" functional in the next month.
Oh.... good finally see somewhere I can cut into the body, opening up the bumper for the bottom purple leds :)
Automotive tail & brake light Vehicle Hood Automotive lighting Car


Ok that's it for now, got my to do list for the Nissan(s) but next update will have to wait till next month... but definitely

To be continued

With kind regards
Tamar
 

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Wow! As always, a pleasure to read your projects Tamar!👌🏼

In the clubs I race (analog) won’t let me cut the side skirts as you say, nor the bumper, but definitely will be following your project and see what I can use in mine😀

Love the idea of the purple lights, very tuner style(as should be any Japan Gt car)😃

Also your comment about the Pace car with magnets made me remember of the Days of Thunder movie🤣:

Harry “I want you to hit the pace car”
Cole “Hit the pace car, what for?”
Harry “Cause you hit all the damn cars and I want you to be perfect, come on, go go go”

Cheers

Daniel
 

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Daniel, you need to move to a digital! We can let you cut whatever you want ;-)
The only guy around here who was(is) an authority in digital racing (he owned the only private club track 10 years ago), is my pal Marc Santos, he plans to open again a private club track anytime soon in the near future, but until then it’s the only formal way to get into the digital racing for me(of course I could buy a digital set for home racing or adapt to oxigen/scorpius)… you know what? I’ll see how the income for end of this year goes and if everything is ok, maybe next year I’ll be adapting my track for digital racing(pray that Policar releases the Lc please!)😉

I die to race GTAM, GTPRO, LMP1 and LMP2 in the same track, simultaneously!😀

Daniel

ps. Little off topic but had to ask, Scorpius or Oxigen?
 

· ParrotGod
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I am already thinking about putting the lights in this car - I do not have the car yet but looking at Tamar's pics, this is going to be easily a 14 LED job.
 

· ParrotGod
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The only guy around here who was(is) an authority in digital racing (he owned the only private club track 10 years ago), is my pal Marc Santos, he plans to open again a private club track anytime soon in the near future, but until then it’s the only formal way to get into the digital racing for me(of course I could buy a digital set for home racing or adapt to oxigen/scorpius)… you know what? I’ll see how the income for end of this year goes and if everything is ok, maybe next year I’ll be adapting my track for digital racing(pray that Policar releases the Lc please!)😉

I die to race GTAM, GTPRO, LMP1 and LMP2 in the same track, simultaneously!😀

Daniel

ps. Little off topic but had to ask, Scorpius or Oxigen?
Maybe move this discussion somewhere else.
But to really enjoying digital racing you need mates and a reliable system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
In the clubs I race (analog) won’t let me cut the side skirts as you say, nor the bumper...
And you don't have to Daniel.
There are 3 reasons for doing this mod.
  1. It will allow independent ride height adjustments of Chassis and Body
  2. It will lower the chassis weight and increase the body weight...but way down low. Nice if the rules allow you to lighten bodies and shift weight around.
  3. It will allow more accurate support of body on chassis (in combination with grub screws added on chassis and some supports glued in body)
Now obviously your club rules don't allow any of this...but you can still have some of the benefits of point 3.
The downside of a slotcar constructed in a way that the body rests on the outer edges of the chassis (side skirts, front-splitter and diffuser) ...
...is that its very hard to have/control that contact...hmm how shall I say this....evenly around the whole perimeter.
The body will make contact with the chassis everywhere, or better anywhere at some point.
So to get more control, adding 4 small drops of cyanoacrilyc glue to underside of the body above the corners of the side skirts( in front and behind the wheels) would help.
Because now the body will only rest on 4 points of the chassis......instead of everywhere anywhere....much easier to check and adjust if pressure is divided unevenly.

With kind regards
Tamar
 

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And you don't have to Daniel.
There are 3 reasons for doing this mod.
  1. It will allow independent ride height adjustments of Chassis and Body
  2. It will lower the chassis weight and increase the body weight...but way down low. Nice if the rules allow you to lighten bodies and shift weight around.
  3. It will allow more accurate support of body on chassis (in combination with grub screws added on chassis and some supports glued in body)
Now obviously your club rules don't allow any of this...but you can still have some of the benefits of point 3.
The downside of a slotcar constructed in a way that the body rests on the outer edges of the chassis (side skirts, front-splitter and diffuser) ...
...is that its very hard to have/control that contact...hmm how shall I say this....evenly around the whole perimeter.
The body will make contact with the chassis everywhere, or better anywhere at some point.
So to get more control, adding 4 small drops of cyan glue to underside of the body above the corners of the side skirts( in front and behind the wheels) would help.
Because now the body will only rest on 4 points of the chassis......instead of everywhere anywhere....much easier to check and adjust if pressure is divided evenly.

With kind regards
Tamar
Wow! You nailed it 😮, I n fact when I was adjusting body to chasis screws I noticed that the body “rocked” funny(which later test on the track confirmed it), had to left a bit more lose all the screws to get a decent movement of the body “over” the chasis and get more stability on track.

Mmm seems I will try those 4 points of contact, I like the idea 😀, thanks for the tips 👍🏼

Daniel
 

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Too much chassis in contact with the bodywork? Not such a problem if your body is a tad warped on one side and there's a canyon between them.:confused:

On that side of things - the driver's side, actually.

Also had to tray bake that underpan as well but that's kinda a given.
 

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Ach! I despair at you speed-crazed morons!🙄 Why would you get rid of that lovely driver detail??

Okay, okay. Weight, I get it. But I'm still going to shake my head in disbelief. People expect stellar detail and wheel arch accuracy and then...🙄

Yup, I did take a prompt from your cockpit musings, Tamar. With or without, I get flare. I also didn't want to cause a digression in this thread so took my grumbling elsewhere. I think. Maybe. Certainly I intended to keep this frequency clear for tuning. 👍
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Ach! I despair at you speed-crazed morons!🙄 Why would you get rid of that lovely driver detail??
Get rid of that lovely driver detail?? Get rid of that lovely driver detail!!, why on earth Pedro would you think I want to get rid of all that lovely driver and cockpit detail?
Ach! I see..its because I mentioned "vacforming"
Well let me tell you Pedro that unlike those produced by most speed-crazed morons who indeed give **** about driver detail...
you can make vacformed interiors that do resemble the original instead of a bare resemblance with every thing looking like a lava blob.

For once I'll be the one shouting "off with his head", maybe chop of his torso as well, and the steering wheel. So you can remount those on the lightweight vacformed tray.
For this one I do plan to have my cake...and eat it.

Yup, I did take a prompt from your cockpit musings, Tamar. With or without, I get flare. I also didn't want to cause a digression in this thread so took my grumbling elsewhere. I think. Maybe. Certainly I intended to keep this frequency clear for tuning. 👍
Well here's another advantage of scoring bot a painted car and a white kit. So you can compare and see how the body is assembled.
Unboxed mine (white kit) last night as I wanted to add some data in the DiSCA database. Low and behold very part straight & true, not a warp in them, body, chassis the lot.
Bit of flash here and there, just minor stuff that can be easily removed.

But seeing how the body is split up into different parts, I could indentify several other areas that could be prone to cause warping.
And in each and every suspected crime scene there are the clear signs of a serial killer:
Chinese factory workers wielding a soldering iron.
Depending on how their grip on the car was, the following items on the Nissan GT-R GT3 body could cause warping if the body was slightly twisted during "tag soldering" the parts in place:
  • Frontbumper
  • Front headlights
  • Back detail of the bonnet vents
  • All the windows
  • Rear bumper

I'd say for a truely proper prep of this car, (as I intend to do next month) remove all and tag back in place with some flexible neoprene glue...that should straighten her out.
Did I just call her a she? yes I did, GT-R might be a gorilla...but I do think its a female Gorilla ;)

With kind regards
Tamar
 

· ParrotGod
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Looking at the pic of the interior tray, I think the driver is "sitting" too tall: even if it were Marciello, his helmet would be much lower between the head rest.
This would be one thing I will change once mines get on top of the dolphins' backs to cross the ditch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
No that's just because for you reference to the drivers "height" you logically pickthe position of the top of the roll cage.
In all its efforts to make a really detailed interior and roll cage slot.it still had to make some compromises.
For my taste the tubing of the cage is a bit oversized and due to assembly and production restrictions...
... the clearing between the roof and the cage makes the whole construction sit a bit low. Barely clearing the driver.
So its not driver to high, its roll cage too low.

With kind regards
Tamar
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Nice shot, and hey if you want to lower the driver, who's stopping you ;)
But image sort of proofs my point. See how the roll cage follows the roofline? only the thick foam padding sticking outside into the door opening.
The cage it self would not be visible with the door closed...now check the Slot.it roll cage😇
 

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Did I just call her a she? yes I did, GT-R might be a gorilla...but I do think its a female Gorilla
With all those curves I bet is a female, just look at that a***😉


I do not know Tamar, if the driver were a bit lower
Maybe we should call Yuki Tsunoda, bet he would sit lower🙃

Btw I do sometimes remove the whole interior and put a plain black tray with just the pilots half body and helmet and a steering wheel, buts that only when there’s no space for another option…or if I get lazy🙂
 
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