Slot.it Nissan GT-R GT3, 2022 DiSCA GT3 Spec

GDSLOT said:

In the clubs I race (analog) won’t let me cut the side skirts as you say, nor the bumper...

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And you don't have to Daniel.
There are 3 reasons for doing this mod.

1. It will allow independent ride height adjustments of Chassis and Body
2. It will lower the chassis weight and increase the body weight...but way down low. Nice if the rules allow you to lighten bodies and shift weight around.
3. It will allow more accurate support of body on chassis (in combination with grub screws added on chassis and some supports glued in body)

Now obviously your club rules don't allow any of this...but you can still have some of the benefits of point 3.
The downside of a slotcar constructed in a way that the body rests on the outer edges of the chassis (side skirts, front-splitter and diffuser) ...
...is that its very hard to have/control that contact...hmm how shall I say this....evenly around the whole perimeter.
The body will make contact with the chassis everywhere, or better anywhere at some point.
So to get more control, adding 4 small drops of cyanoacrilyc glue to underside of the body above the corners of the side skirts( in front and behind the wheels) would help.
Because now the body will only rest on 4 points of the chassis......instead of everywhere anywhere....much easier to check and adjust if pressure is divided unevenly.

With kind regards
Tamar

Hello gents
Had a talk with Steven V, (Supervlieg and SV from Workz) yesterday.
Vacformed lightweight interiors for the Slot.it Nissan GT-R GT3 will be available from mid Jan 2022 via the SV Workz webshop.


With kind regards
Tamar

Wankel Ickx said:

Ach! I despair at you speed-crazed morons!🙄 Why would you get rid of that lovely driver detail??

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Get rid of that lovely driver detail?? Get rid of that lovely driver detail!!, why on earth Pedro would you think I want to get rid of all that lovely driver and cockpit detail?
Ach! I see..its because I mentioned "vacforming"
Well let me tell you Pedro that unlike those produced by most speed-crazed morons who indeed give **** about driver detail...
you can make vacformed interiors that do resemble the original instead of a bare resemblance with every thing looking like a lava blob.

For once I'll be the one shouting "off with his head", maybe chop of his torso as well, and the steering wheel. So you can remount those on the lightweight vacformed tray.
For this one I do plan to have my cake...and eat it.

Wankel Ickx said:

Yup, I did take a prompt from your cockpit musings, Tamar. With or without, I get flare. I also didn't want to cause a digression in this thread so took my grumbling elsewhere. I think. Maybe. Certainly I intended to keep this frequency clear for tuning. 👍

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Well here's another advantage of scoring bot a painted car and a white kit. So you can compare and see how the body is assembled.
Unboxed mine (white kit) last night as I wanted to add some data in the DiSCA database. Low and behold very part straight & true, not a warp in them, body, chassis the lot.
Bit of flash here and there, just minor stuff that can be easily removed.

But seeing how the body is split up into different parts, I could indentify several other areas that could be prone to cause warping.
And in each and every suspected crime scene there are the clear signs of a serial killer:
Chinese factory workers wielding a soldering iron.
Depending on how their grip on the car was, the following items on the Nissan GT-R GT3 body could cause warping if the body was slightly twisted during "tag soldering" the parts in place:

• Frontbumper
• Front headlights
• Back detail of the bonnet vents
• All the windows
• Rear bumper

I'd say for a truely proper prep of this car, (as I intend to do next month) remove all and tag back in place with some flexible neoprene glue...that should straighten her out.
Did I just call her a she? yes I did, GT-R might be a gorilla...but I do think its a female Gorilla

With kind regards
Tamar

Back to Basics
Hello Slotfriends, with the Rockingham race now well behind us (still recovering) and Suzuka next on the calendar, its about time to start working on the Nissan GT-R and build it too DiSCA GT3 spec.
Its been a while since anyone posted on the specs of such a slotcar...
So for starters here's a breakdown of what parts are needed and which areas need attending.




0: Scaleauto Procomp4 20,9mmø, Stock inserts fit (more info on that subject will follow in a later post)

1: Motorpod, two options here, Safe one would be 0,5 offset, critical one would be 1,0mm offset. 1,0 barely makes 1,8mm GC on new wheels and would require motor to be raised by 0,2mm.
Ideal would be a 0,75mm offset...but that unfortunately does not exist as an AW in the Slot.it range.
For all options ballbearing type preferred.

2: Slot.it 16mmø AW Spur, gearing most likely 12x28.

3: You can use the stock (6,5mmO) Slot.it pinion or when motor pod modified you can also use Sigma/ Scaleauto/Mitoos M50 nylon 12t (6,8mmø)

4: Use of evo -Side suspension preferred but will need some material to be removed from body (side intakes) for clearence.

5: Scaleauto Baby Sprinter Motor SC-0027b (Long can Boxer type) Don't forget to mount Slot.it Endbell adaptor upside down.

6: Hall sensor to the right mounted on foam pads.

7: DiSCA rules require 1,8 Ground Clearance C under the centre of the motor. The reason for this is that first of all we did not want the GT3 cars to have too much motor magnetism. Secondly we wanted specs that would be achievable by all brands with as much off the shelf parts as possible. Stock NSR cars are well above that 1,8 GC under the motor.
For the Nissan to clear 1,8 GC with a 1,0 offset pod, two 0,5mm shims are needed to lift front of pod to position Motor level with techblock/track rails.

8: Protect base of antenna with some 2k glue and Shrinktube. Funny detail, wanna know how tall the Nissan body is? well the O2 Antenna fits under body in almost fully upright position. 😂

9: O201C1 chip mounted @ 90˚ on foam pads. Stock chassis has some nice locator pegs to correctly fix the chip correctly over the various LC Led openings. Clicks right in place. But I would advice a more "soft" placement to isolate chassis vibration and dampen forces during inevitable digital crashes.

10: Stock plastic Front wheels are fine, true and glue stock front tyres. With superglue coating total would be ≠ 20,2mmø. Inserts pop right out, you could drill some holes in the back face of the rims, safes a bit of weight and makes removing inserts even easier.

11: Now we are arriving at a problem area. With the stock guide the front of the chassis sits a bit high.
Straightening the chassis as I described in this post has cured this. Will repost it here at a later stage.
Stock "clip in "guide is limited in guide ride height adjustments, best candidate for replacement/upgrade would be the new Slot.it Ch89b guide.

12: With Chassis straightened the body rests much better on the chassis...but due to profile of front splitter how the body rests on the chassis will vary under acceleration and braking.
My preferred option would be to cut the Splitter and side skirts and mount them to the body. That way you can adjust Body ride height and Chassis ride height independently. (all allowed by DiSCA GT3 rules)

Ok that's it for now Gents
to be continued

With kind regards
Tamar

Atobit said:

By the way, how is the Slot.it Nissan GT-R with Stefan's chassis? Because out of the box, it's not great. Either the CG is too high or the chassis is too stiff.

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As a reply to Atobit's question in an other topic and a small sidestep to reboot this one.
First of all ..must say I have different experiences with the Nissan. Sure enough its CG is high(er) than most GT’s but… Two Nissan’s were build for last May’s Suzuka Double Digital. One in GT3 ( by Dave Maddock) and one in WEC spec ( by Gary) and both were extremely competitive with a simple set-up on a stock chassis.

But as Claude mentioned..his experience with the Nissan is on wooden track...mine/ours is on plastic track.
Lower grip, less penalty for a higher CG. on Plastic track a higher centre of gravity can even be beneficial to generate more grip.
Claude also mentioned that he thought that maybe the stock chassis was too stiff. Well from my experience, wooden tracks, more grip requires a stiffer chassis.
So if you can elaborate a bit more on what your handling problems are Claude...please inform us.
And for those of you that are looking for more grip (and like to preserve those nicely filled wheelarches) slip on a set of the new 1323 moulded slot.it G25 or F22 tires.

As for the Prospeed Chassis that Stefan Nalbach designed for the Slot.it Nissan. What's available via his webshop right now is just the basic design he does for most of the slot cars. Contoured to fit the Slot.it GT-R body, with the correct body mount positions. With the Flex-slots it could be more flexible that the stock Nissan chassis.
But this version is for an NSR type pod so less suited to mounting an Oxigen chip than the stock chassis.
The advantage of the ProSpeed chassis is that you can use it in combination with the ProSpeed (NSR type) pods which are a bit narrower so an easier fit if you want to use side suspension...and are available in a wider and different range of offsets.

But be aware that Slot.it is in the process of fabricating an uprated/upgraded version of its own Evo AW pod with bigger offset than the current 1.0mm.
So stock alternatives will become available.

With kind regards
Tamar

Small update for the Nissan fans.
Got the rear wing supports laser cut this week, done two versions. A basic solid one...and a much more detailed "open version"
Bringing some over to the UK for the Rockingham 6hrs GT3 race. So should be tested on one of the Nissan's running this weekend.
Should be available from SV Works website in September.

From left to right: 1 Remove stock supports from rear wing, make sure you've got a clean contact patch. Mark position of supports.
2 Enlarge opening for supports where required (pictured here "solid" version) with small key file.
3 Testfit wingsupports and apply a small amount of medium (not so fast drying) Superglue on the top of the supports. Place rear wing in correct position on top of supports.
4 Final result...nice scale but flexible rear wing supports (pictured here the "open" version)


With kind regards
Tamar

Hello Gio
In addition to Gary's remarks.

As GD mentioned before Sponge tires are more commonly used in 1/24, in general the perception of using sponge tires on 1/32nd cars is that they provide too much grip.
Which was why at the time we started the DiSCA GT3 formula we went for the then hardest compound available for 1/32nd scale, the Procomp3.
But immediately I started lobbying at Scaleauto to produce the hardest compound in their range, the Procomp4, for 1/32 as well.

Scaleauto Procomp4 is a harder compound than the Procomp3 (40-45 shore vs 30-35 shore). In general the harder the compound, the less the side wall of the sponge tire will be able to deform/flex and as such the less grip it will provide.
To a certain extent a harder compound will also have a lower wear rate. And from an organisers point of view... a bit less grip and bit more durability was what we were looking for.

As Gary mentioned "...the Procomp4 is easier to drive when new as they aren’t so grabby on the surface". This is a result of the harder compound deforming less when the wheels are trued.
All sponge tires deform slightly during the trueing process. The pressure applied during trueing bends the sidewalls slightly outwards which results in a minimal "convex" profile as the sidewalls bend back "up" after the trueing is finished.
Again the harder the compound the smaller the deformation, meaning that straight out of the box the Procomp4 has a less "convex" profile than the Procomp3 and will perform better with a more neutral handling.

One would expect the lesser grip of the Procomp4 to result in a higher laptime than the softer Procomp3 and over one lap, under ideal conditions, with a fine tuned set-up... this would be correct.
But not over the full duration of a DiSCA GT3 race. In general on the Procomp3 the lap times would tend to drop during the first 20 -30 minutes of the race, after which they would tend to start rising again.
This is due to decreased ground clearance caused by the tire wear which increases the magna traction and causes the car to develop more and more grip...to the extend that the car gets bogged down on the track. Requiring you to push harder and harder to maintain the same laptimes. It also increases the motor temp which results in less power.
With the harder Procomp4 you still have the same process of decrease/increase in lap times but with a lower wear rate the handling of the car will remain stable for a longer period than with the Procomp3. As a result your average laptime over the full race duration could be lower than those achievable with the Procomp3.

Procomp4, can they last long enough to run two (60 min.) races? My answer would be yes and not only because the harder compound can provide a lower wear rate but also because you have more tyre to begin with.
On DiSCA request the Procomp4 wheels are trued to a bigger diameter than the Procomp3 wheels (20.9mmø vs 20.6mmø)
This increase in tire diameter was requested to provide a bit more wriggle room for cars with stock Sideways and Black Arrow pods that (depending on set-up) could struggle to pass the 1.8 mm ground clearance on new tires...and the bigger tires look better too 😇

A last word on the durability, as I mentioned before, a harder compound will also have a lower wear rate...to a certain extent. Tire wear is mainly caused by the amount of tire spin.
For the optimum performance of a sponge tire a minimal amount of spin is required.
But with a set up that is too loose, and/or a driving style that hangs the tail out on every corner entry and exit...you might end of with just the same wear rate as a softer compound ...or worse.

With kind regards
Tamar