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Discussion Starter · #21 · (Edited)
Back to Basics
Hello Slotfriends, with the Rockingham race now well behind us (still recovering) and Suzuka next on the calendar, its about time to start working on the Nissan GT-R and build it too DiSCA GT3 spec.
Its been a while since anyone posted on the specs of such a slotcar...
So for starters here's a breakdown of what parts are needed and which areas need attending.


Circuit component Electronic component Engineering Rectangle Electronic engineering



0: Scaleauto Procomp4 20,9mmø, Stock inserts fit (more info on that subject will follow in a later post)

1: Motorpod, two options here, Safe one would be 0,5 offset, critical one would be 1,0mm offset. 1,0 barely makes 1,8mm GC on new wheels and would require motor to be raised by 0,2mm.
Ideal would be a 0,75mm offset...but that unfortunately does not exist as an AW in the Slot.it range.
For all options ballbearing type preferred.

2: Slot.it 16mmø AW Spur, gearing most likely 12x28.

3: You can use the stock (6,5mmO) Slot.it pinion or when motor pod modified you can also use Sigma/ Scaleauto/Mitoos M50 nylon 12t (6,8mmø)

4: Use of evo -Side suspension preferred but will need some material to be removed from body (side intakes) for clearence.

5: Scaleauto Baby Sprinter Motor SC-0027b (Long can Boxer type) Don't forget to mount Slot.it Endbell adaptor upside down.

6: Hall sensor to the right mounted on foam pads.

7: DiSCA rules require 1,8 Ground Clearance C under the centre of the motor. The reason for this is that first of all we did not want the GT3 cars to have too much motor magnetism. Secondly we wanted specs that would be achievable by all brands with as much off the shelf parts as possible. Stock NSR cars are well above that 1,8 GC under the motor.
For the Nissan to clear 1,8 GC with a 1,0 offset pod, two 0,5mm shims are needed to lift front of pod to position Motor level with techblock/track rails.

8: Protect base of antenna with some 2k glue and Shrinktube. Funny detail, wanna know how tall the Nissan body is? well the O2 Antenna fits under body in almost fully upright position. 😂

9: O201C1 chip mounted @ 90˚ on foam pads. Stock chassis has some nice locator pegs to correctly fix the chip correctly over the various LC Led openings. Clicks right in place. But I would advice a more "soft" placement to isolate chassis vibration and dampen forces during inevitable digital crashes.

10: Stock plastic Front wheels are fine, true and glue stock front tyres. With superglue coating total would be ≠ 20,2mmø. Inserts pop right out, you could drill some holes in the back face of the rims, safes a bit of weight and makes removing inserts even easier.

11: Now we are arriving at a problem area. With the stock guide the front of the chassis sits a bit high.
Straightening the chassis as I described in this post has cured this. Will repost it here at a later stage.
Stock "clip in "guide is limited in guide ride height adjustments, best candidate for replacement/upgrade would be the new Slot.it Ch89b guide.

12: With Chassis straightened the body rests much better on the chassis...but due to profile of front splitter how the body rests on the chassis will vary under acceleration and braking.
My preferred option would be to cut the Splitter and side skirts and mount them to the body. That way you can adjust Body ride height and Chassis ride height independently. (all allowed by DiSCA GT3 rules)

Ok that's it for now Gents
to be continued

With kind regards
Tamar
 

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Back to Basics
Hello Slotfriends, with the Rockingham race now well behind us (still recovering) and Suzuka next on the calendar its about time to start working on the Nissan GT-R and build it too DiSCA GT3 spec.
Its been a while since anyone posted on the specs of such a slotcar...
So for starters here's a breakdown of what parts are needed and which areas need attending.


View attachment 289110


0: Scaleauto Procomp4 20,9mmø, Stock inserts fit (more info on that subject will follow in a later post)

1: Motorpod, two options here, Safe one would be 0,5 offset, critical one would be 1,0mm offset. 1,0 barely makes 1,8mm GC on new wheels and would require motor to be raised by 0,2mm.
Ideal would be a 0,75mm offset...but that unfortunately does not exist as an AW in the Slot.it range.
For all options ballbearing type preferred.

2: Slot.it 16mmø AW Spur, gearing most likely 12x28.

3: You can use the stock (6,5mmO) Slot.it pinion or when motor pod modified you can also use Sigma/ Scaleauto/Mitoos M50 nylon 12t (6,8mmø)


4: Use of evo -Side suspension preferred but will need some material to be removed from body (side intakes) for clearence.

5: Scaleauto Baby Sprinter Motor SC-0027b (Long can Boxer type) Don't forget to mount Slot.it Endbell adaptor upside down.

6: Hall sensor to the right mounted on foam pads.

7: DiSCA rules require 1,8 Ground Clearance C under the centre of the motor. The reason for this is that first of all we did not want the GT3 cars to have too much motor magnetism. Secondly we wanted specs that would be achievable by all brands with as much off the shelf parts as possible. Stock NSR cars are well above that 1,8 GC under the motor.
For the Nissan to clear 1,8 GC with a 1,0 offset pod, two 0,5mm shims are needed to lift front of pod to position Motor level with techblock/track rails.

8: Protect base of antenna with some 2k glue and Shrinktube. Funny detail, wanna know how tall the Nissan body is? well the O2 Antenna fits under body in almost fully upright position. 😂

9: O201C1 chip mounted @ 90˚ on foam pads. Stock chassis has some nice locator pegs to correctly fix the chip correctly over the various LC Led openings. Clicks right in place. But I would advice a more "soft" placement to isolate chassis vibration and dampen forces during inevitable digital crashes.

10: Stock plastic Front wheels are fine, true and glue stock front tyres. With superglue coating total would be ≠ 20,2mmø. Inserts pop right out, you could drill some holes in the back face of the rims, safes a bit of weight and makes removing inserts even easier.

11: Now we are arriving at a problem area. With the stock guide the front of the chassis sits a bit high.
Straightening the chassis as I described in this post has cured this. Will repost it here at a later stage.
Stock "clip in "guide is limited in guide ride height adjustments, best candidate for replacement/upgrade would be the new Slot.it Ch89b guide.

12: With Chassis straightened the body rests much better on the chassis...but due to profile of front splitter how the body rests on the chassis will vary under acceleration and braking.
My preferred option would be to cut the Splitter and side skirts and mount them to the body. That way you can adjust Body ride height and Chassis ride height independently. (all allowed by DiSCA GT3 rules)

Ok that's it for now Gents
to be continued

With kind regards
Tamar
Fabulous post Tamar! I’ll have to buy at least two more GTR and try an Aw set up 😀
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Glad you like it, almost 99% of what I have written in the "Back to Basic" post could be done while still respecting most generally used "Stock /Standard" Club tech rules.
What will follow...won't...as then we'll be entering deeper into DiSCA territory 😇

With kind regards
Tamar
 

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ParrotGod
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10,489 Posts
Nice Tamar. The only thing that I would add is that 12/28 is a bit too short especially with that crazy baby sprinter motor! ;-)
Especially on large tracks, I go for a 14 pinion (sigma) and 26 spur...and then working around that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Hello Gio
Just covering the basics in my first post, and for once starting with a relatively "stock" set up first, and then like mentioned before, going deeper in to DiSCA territory step by step.

So for the Nissan with its AW slot.it pod a "stock ratio" would be a 12x28 gearing, which could very easily without any modification be changed to 12x26 (2,17 ratio) which is very close to 14x30 (2,14 ratio)
And you do need to take in account that for 2022 DiSCA GT3 will run on the taller Procomp4 (20,9mmø) wheels.
So if you calculate the theoretical max speed M p/s 12x26 would actually give you a higher max M p/s than 14x30.

With kind regards
Tamar
 

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Re Tamar's post number 21 - Back to Basics...

The man starts his list of 'thing to do' at 0.

Not 1. But 0.

Right there, that is the difference between someone who knows what they are doing and me...

Looking forward to more on this Tamar!
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
that is the difference between someone who knows what they are doing and me...
LOL, only when it concerns covering up f***k ups, I'd finished the image with numbers and written the list and then realized that I had forgotten about the wheels...and as I had conveniently sequenced and placed the numbers left to right...
and didn't want to redo the image....the only solution was to add...a zero 😇

With kind regards
Tamar
 

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LOL, only when it concerns covering up f***k ups, I'd finished the image with numbers and written the list and then realized that I had forgotten about the wheels...and as I had conveniently sequenced and placed the numbers left to right...
and didn't want to redo the image....the only solution was to add...a zero 😇

With kind regards
Tamar
I assumed you were being thorough by covering the important 'stuff' between 0 and 1...!
 

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ParrotGod
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10,489 Posts
My GT-R(s) have finally arrived and I have been working on them for 2 days in a row and I am not still done.
And this is not even a whitekit...Yesterday I managed to do two lexan interiors (which I will need to paint - adding one more day to finish this project).
It is truly a magnificent model. Will post the work I did on mine on another post.
 
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