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I see you get Slot.it's pinions and spurs in different sizes. Not talking about teeth count. The pinions come in 5.5 and 6.5 and the spurs in 18 and 19 (mm?). How do you know which one to use in the car you've got. Car's don't come with spec sheets.
 

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Allan Wakefield
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It also has alot to do with the car you are fitting to.

As an example the Slot.It Porsche 956 works incredibly well with a sidewinder set up but when ordering the mount and gear set you HAVE to use 18mm diameter as the 19mm is too big and will offset the rear axle too much. Specify the 18mm sidewinder mount as the two are really hard to distinguish.
Opposite are the Audis which require 19mm.
For non Slot.It cars you need to check clearances, wheel diameter etc first. These are (obviously all different) hence no clear Official Slot.it listing although alot of them specify the type they are designed for on the packaging.

If you want to post the car yo uare thinking of upgrading here, I (or others) will give you a suitable list of part numbers.

Speaking to the shop direct should also give you this info if they know their stuff!
 

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As far as I know, for the non Slot.It cars, the 19mm gears are for ProSlot cars, and the 18mm are for Fly and Scalextric cars
 

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If you are going to really use the HRS line then you need to start with a totally silly switch - the motormount is for 18mm on the RTR-chassie.
Which mean you can not use big hub/big tire combo.

There's a few such small notions about HRS, it would be lovely if the various starter sets where made into more easily used ways.

For examples:

* The inline kit can be used with NC1, V12/2, Evo2 and RP001 (with some filing), but NOT with the most usual starting points, ie the Mab-S and P-1.

* To make use of the more suitable big wheels the RTR has to change motor mount. And thus also crown gear (to 19mm).

* There's no starter kit for the NC/boxer.

To make HRS the obvious choice to make a standard class these issue must be addressed...
Sorry Maurizio, but this is sort of true.
The HRS is absolutely fabulous, but it's a bit to expensive to get people to like it for "adding" to their expensively bought car.
Yes, it will handle much much (Much!) better, but...
Which reminds me, the HRS magnets are far to brittle, drop it and it breaks. (I've lost atleast three this way.)
But I must say that a HRS with the magnet at the front, S1 and Sport is a marvelous experience!


Vrooom!
/Erik
 

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Alan Paterson
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Erik,

The HRS Kit is designed to support any of the current Motor trays, including the Boxer/NC2.
Logically, if you install a Boxer tray, you go to In-line Gears, and not sidewinder configuration.
And it's totally possible to use the larger rims with the standard Chassis Starter Kit, you don't have to change the Motor Mount to use the larger rims.

I think Maurizio has done a fantastic job to provide the Market with a complete, Ready to Run chassis (Which runs awesomely by the way), for such an acceptable price. If you think the HRS Kit is expensive, then your local hobbyshop is ripping you off..


As for magnets breaking. All magnets will break if you drop them. Don't drop them and they won't break.


Regards

Big Al
 

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Sorry Al, I am fairly adept at using the various configurations.

And no, large hub/large tire do not mix on the RTR. The motor axle and the tires(!) touch.

And the issues wheren't if these where lovely items, which they are, but to make it easy to add them to the car you want to run with it.
Ie after having spent lots of bucks on a Fly you don't want to spend another large amount to get it going HRS, you want a as smooth transition as possible.

So it was the price tag on rebuilding that could be lessened, with various other starter kits etc I was adressing, as well as some inherit problems.

The HRS is as good as they come, or better. That's my bottom line, and I want to spread the use. But to spread I have to be able to show how easy it is...

/Erik
 

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Alan Paterson
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Hi Erik,

if you intend using the V12 in the sidewinder configuration, and never in an alternative chassis, it's a matter of dremel cutting the additional length of the motor shaft off, so that it doesn't rub against the larger Rim/Tyre configuration...

regards

Al
 

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As I said, some things could have been avoided.
I quite naturally know that I can do what you suggest, but by basing the RTR on the 19mm mount it wouln't have been needed.
BTW - making such cuts on a shaft isn't what I want to ask anyone...

/Erik
 

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It's not Slot.It that need to reduce prices (although I wouldn't argue!). It's companies like Fly, Scalextric and Carrera (IMO) that make cars which need the HRS to run properly.

The Slot.It parts are quality stuff, and as such, I'd expect to pay more for them than inferior stuff from other manufacturers.

Keep it coming Maurizio!

Andy
 

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Dave Kennedy
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I agree that money spent on anything Slot It is money well spent and I expect to make some modifications when I start replacing things on RTR cars.

DK
 

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I'm not even arguing the price of HRS, just the need to buy another thing to make them work as smoothly as they do.
Ie compatable sets...


/Erik
 

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Hi guys.
Running 19mm sidewinder gears instead of 18mm would limit the minimum outer diameter of the rear wheels/tyres and impose a higher ride height. I'd say that was a more crucial limitation in a race car than the armature shaft touching large diameter rear tyres. Of course, in a perfect world you could have the option ...
I've got a '69 Camaro, Lola T70 and a Porsche 956 running with the HRS chassis. Excellent piece of kit!
Regards,
Lowrider.
 

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* Run the magnet in it's most forward position and the ride height isn't as crucial. (And nicer sliding action too!)
* Check if you really think it looks good with the smaller hubs on a modern/semi-modern GT.

Anyhow, lovely stuff.

/Erik
 

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Hi Ghost.
If I were building a static model I'd fill the wheelarches so that a 1/32 scale finger couldn't fit in there.
Racing slot cars competitively I want the CoG as low as possible, with or without magnet, and I prefer the acceleration boost that small dia. rear wheels provide.
Most of my racing is magnet-free so set-up preferences may differ.
Regards,
Lowrider.
 

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Yes, and look bad...
A mini's wheels in a Lister's wheel arcs. Thanks but no thanks.
But, as some say, our milage may differ, what do I know, I just get there, to the top with a Ninco Audi TT, while the rest run Fly GT's.

Cheers
Erik
 

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I don't think it's all that nice to refer to someone else's cars as "bad". You may not like it, but we like going fast, that's why we modify our cars in this way.

Andy

EDIT: This post and the post above have been moderated. The actual word was not "bad" but much more offensive. Just so no-one thinks I'm over-reacting.
 

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As I said, I think it looks less nice, and still stay on top witout it.
So why not go for looks...

I do and still keep competetive.

And if speed is what your after, why not go slotracing, and let us that like to race (model)cars do that...
 

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Sorry, but I never said anything about the way that you race.

You can race like that if you like, I have no problem with that. All I ask is that you don't badmouth the way we race. It's not polite and it's not the way to make the community grow.

I don't want to go "slotracing" if it's what I think it is, because you cannot build a car for under £300, I'm told. Whether this is true or not is beside the point. I want to remain 1/32 racing, but I want to do it quickly. I don't see why I should do any different.

As I said before, I have no problem with how you race. In fact, I have a lot of respect for those who only run scale cars, with accurate wheels and stuff like that. It's just not for me.

Andy
 

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Ok, fair enough, bad mouthing anothers views are never a good thing.
What I was trying to say was that I want to go fast and I want to go good looking.

And when you want the first, then HRS is a prime choice.
(It's even more a prime choice if you go expencive actually, a well built body on a bad handling chassie, is really bad, even if you only take one demonstration lap on the track.)

When you want the second, and here's the cloe, you can't go HRS RTR, because the 18mm crown doesn't allow the big hub/big tire combo.

Sorry for any misunderstandings.

/Erik
 
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