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To untether a Slot.it oXigen SCP-2 controller from it's power cables there are a few DIY options, how-to's and solutions available. Slot.it have also come up with their own solution using a 3D printed part from Shapeways and a new battery holder that is also a charging circuit.

To complete this modification you will need:

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As a preliminary task I began to untether the power cables from the oXigen cartridge.

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I removed the cartridge from the handle and removed the circuit board by loosening off the screw.

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I then desoldered the power cable as highlighted above, both the Black and Red from the board. Remember to keep the cable safe in case you want to use it again.

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The board can then be re-assembled into the cartridge.

Instructions for the next steps are included with the Slot.it O205c oXigen battery holder/charger:

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Disassemble the SCP-2 controller removing the front shell, PCB and red back frame.

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Drill a hole in the back shell. A 7mm (1/4″) hole in the top left corner of the Slot.it sticker.

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This will allow the three wires of the connector to pass through.

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Solder the middle connector wire to the PCB hole marked as AL+ on the main SCP-2 PCB. Solder each of the two remaining wires to holes marked as AL-.

Re-assemble the SCP-2.

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Insert the battery charger PCB inside the Piggyback Power Box.

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Make sure the switch lever and the micro USB plug are properly aligned.

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Press the PCB so that it clips into place. I used the open top of a ball pen to apply equal pressure around the PCB holes when pushing it down.

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Plug the SCP-2 power wires connector into the battery charger PCB's female socket.

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Insert the battery making sure that you get the polarity right. I used a 14500 battery that is 2400mAh, this should give a longer use time between charges. I recommend that you use one with protection, this protects the battery against common dangers, such as overcharge, over discharge, short circuit/over current, and temperature.

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I charged my battery before installing using a Nitecore D2 Intelligent LCD battery charger. But I presume there are no issues charging the battery once fitted from the micro-usb power input.

[youtube-hd]1GRiPFwfplA[/youtube-hd]

The two clips in the video above demonstrate the issues I had with installing the battery. Firstly it was a loose fit, to resolve this I bent the sprung end of the battery terminal outwards to increase the tension and ensure good electrical contact. This positioned the battery more to the left so it was no longer resting on the right hand support.

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To resolve the unsupported battery I used some foam packaging, a little underneath the battery where the support would have been. Then some either side of the battery to help hold it firmly in place. Now I know that it's not going to go anywhere when I slam my controller down each time I finish a race in last!

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Insert the 4 clips into the 4 holes on the SCP-2 frame, make sure the switch is facing up.

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Use four 6mm M2 grub screws to attach the battery case to the controller. This can be done from the outside of the reassembled controller.

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The modification is now complete and my SCP-2 controller functions completely wireless.

[youtube-hd]a8480ElNizE[/youtube-hd]
 

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Circuit Owner
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Premium Member
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3,6 Voltage is that enough, and how long can it last.

Martin
Yes works fine, I've not worked out battery life because it hasn't run out yet. I haven't been timing it and also not using it much at the moment. I'll try to time it's use after the next charge. I may also be able to give it a test under race conditions at the next DiSCA GT3 event.

Nice clear instructions McEwan
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Do you need a special charger for Li-Ion AA batteries?
Yep, I have a Nitecore D2 Intelligent LCD battery charger, does everything.
 

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Greg Gaub
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14,789 Posts
If anyone does this upgrade and wonders why the wiring solder points look different, don't perform the upgrade until you contact slot.it. The very early SCP2 models are slightly different, and have different connection points for those wires.
 

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ParrotGod
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Good stuff Leon. How much did you pay for the whole modification?
 

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Premium Member
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If anyone does this upgrade and wonders why the wiring solder points look different, don't perform the upgrade until you contact slot.it. The very early SCP2 models are slightly different, and have different connection points for those wires.
Yes good point, to be fair this is covered in the instructions that come with the O205c battery holder. I just skipped those for the purpose of my build but the details of where to solder on the early version of the PCB are there.

Good stuff Leon. How much did you pay for the whole modification?
I don't really like to think about that too much
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I got the Piggyback Box from Shapeways for £18, lets forget about the postage cost for now because I got a DTM chassis at the same time... Then I purchased the O205b battery box as I mistakenly thought this was the one to fit inside the Piggyback Box... so we shall forget about that one as well.

I was very lucky to receive an early sample of the O205c battery holder from Maurizio so that I could complete the mod. A 14500 battery cost me about £3, the rest of the stuff I already had.

So you could say that it only cost me £21 and that's what we shall tell the wife ok.
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But the reality is probably closer to double that when you factor in postage and extras etc.
 

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Greg Gaub
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14,789 Posts
LOL, no. Because Maurizio sent me an early kit to install and provide feedback on. My SCP2 is one of the early ones, and when it wouldn't work using the instructions it came with, he provided the instructions for mine. He had forgotten that there was a different board at first. He included the instructions in the final release for those few early adopters such as myself. I prefer the LiPo mod, but this is a good solution as well.
 

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ParrotGod
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7,899 Posts
Hi Greg, I was actually joking about Leon trying to hide cost of the mod from his wife...but i guess it works also in this other way ;-)
 
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