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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm sure I've posted this question before, but I can't find the thread.


What are my options for reducing the grip of my SCX rally loops to somewhere near Scalextric Sport levels?

TIA
 

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Yet again, I'm resurrecting a dead thread!


I got charred-off, to say the least, with my SCX Rally Chrono sections ripping my tyres to shreads. So I started thinking again about how to remove the abrasiveness.

Painting didn't work, the abrasiveness was still quite evident. After just a few runs, it started to come off in big flakes, even though I'd given the sections a thorough dousing with meths and used plastic primer. So I stripped it all off with a wire brush and had a re-think.

Next, I used P38 car body filler but this was very messy and I have my doubts that it will stay adhered to the track in the long term. It did give a much smoother surface, though;- nearer to the texture of Scalextric Sport, which was what I was hoping for. Being a lazy so-and-so, I couldn't be bothered to do more than one loop + the short straight section and feed-in R2 section.
The colour isn't up to much, so I'll have to get some more of my preferred plastic paint, this time in grey rather than black.

The second loop I have done differently. I discovered that wiping the track surface repeatedly backwards and forwards with a Stanley knife blade held perpendicular to the track surface takes the worst if the abrasiveness off, then rubbing it with 120 grit emery cloth evens it out. Again, the track sections will get a blast of grey plastic paint.

Bodgery?? Probably.

Will it work? I won't be able to tell for a few weeks as the attic is now a mess after we've had more home improvements done (everything covered in thick dust
which I wasn't forewarned about), and it's likely to be too cold to get up there for any length of time to take the track apart, clean it all and reassemble it. If it doesn't work, I'll have to see what I can come-up with utilising Scalextric Sport track sections cut to suit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
QUOTE (SplitRim @ 6 Dec 2012, 10:44) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Get C.8222 Conversion tracks, then chop up some Sport track to make a loop!! Simples
I've got a few of those spare. I'm more concerned about the lead-in. I guess a pit lane exit is the answer.
 

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What if you position the lead in in the middle of a straight? shouldn't do too much damage in a straight path

Surely the tyre damage is while you are drifting on the twisty bits?
Either taht or your tyres are waaaaay too soft!!!

Alternately sling the SCX chronos track away, in my direction (I'll swap for a load of Sport), and scratch build from that
 

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so buy tires as needed?

sounds to me like you're missing the point of rallying; you need to match the tuning & equipment of the car to the conditions of the course, all this while adapting your driving style to the conditions.
Most slot rallying is done on Ninco, which is actually abrasive. There are many tire options to choose from; different Shore rated rubber, tread patterns, etc.
I've been slot rallying for close to 10 years & this problem has never come up. Are you running w/ magnets & a stock wallwart? My typical track is composed of 3-4 different track surfaces w/ elevation changes & just about any piece of specialty track made; hump bridges, bank turns, "dunes", rough track, smooth track. Lately I've discovered the "ice" track pieces can be quite a surprising element (I paint most of my track to simulate dirt, etc). When I use Scaley Sport we call it "black ice"; especially when running in the "snow".
 

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QUOTE (martini917k @ 6 Dec 2012, 12:59) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>so buy tires as needed? 50-odd cars £2-odd per car every 3 months or so? I don't think so.

QUOTE (martini917k @ 6 Dec 2012, 12:59) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>sounds to me like you're missing the point of rallying; you need to match the tuning & equipment of the car to the conditions of the course, all this while adapting your driving style to the conditions. My personal preference is is for tarmac rallying. Humpback bridges, steep inclines, even some short "icy" sections are all fine with me. Off-road-type track doesn't figure in my plans. I spend a lot of time setting cars up to run in a way that I'm happy with.

QUOTE (martini917k @ 6 Dec 2012, 12:59) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Most slot rallying is done on Ninco, which is actually abrasive. My slot rallying is done on Scalextric Sport track, mainly because of the easy availability of it. Scalextric, unfortunately don't cater for slot rally enthusiasts - I wish they did!

QUOTE (martini917k @ 6 Dec 2012, 12:59) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>There are many tire options to choose from; different Shore rated rubber, tread patterns, I have tried all sorts of tyres - Slot.It, NSR, urethanes - in many different ratings. My preference, on the Sport track, is for Slot.It P2 or C1** and I'm quite impressed with the stock grooved tyres on Ninco WRC cars - so much so that I've just ordered 6 pairs to replace worn-out Slot.Its. That's fine for cars with 16, 16.5 or 17mm wheels, but not for such cars as SCX's mkII Escort, Alpine A110, Sunbeam Lotus and Fiat 131 where the only replacement tyres available are urethane copies. I have magnet-equipped race cars that have run the same tyres on 100% Sport track and other than where I've trued the tyres, there is no evidence of tyre wear.

**In fact, the C1s I've used - which are supposed to be for Scalextric classic track (so, one would assume, SCX as well) - wore out quicker than P2s.**

At this point, I'll point out that I don't have a problem with the way the cars handle on the Sport track. The cars run nice and smooth, mostly with controllable "slideability". On the SCX rally sections they are difficult (some are impossible) to drift and many of them suffer from "Ninco hop" - even the non-Ninco cars. Go into one of the loops, or the R2 section too fast and the rear wheels dig-in and the car rolls out of the slot. I have tried harder tyres, which helped a great deal on the SCX track, but on the Sport track they were all over the place - like you described "black ice".


QUOTE (martini917k @ 6 Dec 2012, 12:59) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Are you running w/ magnets & a stock wallwart? No magnets, stock wallwart.
 

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Why don't you just go slower on the SCX track, I run my chrono loops without run off so that they are more of a test of accurate driving than sliding, and why don't you come to a round of Slot Rally GB?

BTW I use Ninco tyres for rallying, the work well on a mixture of track surfaces, Slot It P6 tyres are useless on wet track
 

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Polyfilla and gloss of your choice to fill in the crenulations, or if you fancy a bit of rough stuff, polyfilla and a bit of coffee grounds (I can send you tons of the bloody stuff!).

As an aside and without hijacking your thread, can any of you guys PM me with that rather spot on wiring diagram for the pins on the rally pack - I've lost the link and for some stupid reason have totally disassembled the chrono pack.

I'll post in a fresh thread with your answers, so as to share with everyone else (gicving you due credit!).
Cheers.
 

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QUOTE (Julian_Boolean @ 6 Dec 2012, 15:13) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>why don't you come to a round of Slot Rally GB? The nearest one to me is over 100 miles away (probably a 2.5hr drive as it's trans-Pennine), Julian. Also, weekends are the only time I get to spend with my family, as I work unsociable shifts.
Early start Saturday, overnight stay, home late Sunday?? Not on, I'm afraid. .........And then there's the cost of the fuel.............

QUOTE (Julian_Boolean @ 6 Dec 2012, 15:13) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>BTW I use Ninco tyres for rallying, the work well on a mixture of track surfaces That seems to tie-in with my own thoughts. They still wear quickly on SCX track, though. I've bought all my Ninco WRCs in the last year, and 2 of them have worn the rears down to slicks already.

QUOTE (Julian_Boolean @ 6 Dec 2012, 15:13) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Slot It P6 tyres are useless on wet track Wet?? As in water?

I like P6s on my race cars, but they're too grippy for rally cars.

QUOTE (snurfen @ 6 Dec 2012, 15:40) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>As an aside and without hijacking your thread, can any of you guys PM me with that rather spot on wiring diagram for the pins on the rally pack - I've lost the link and for some stupid reason have totally disassembled the chrono pack. I don't have a diagram, but I can post when I've checked later this evening.


Oh! Hang on!............ Do you mean you've got the Chrono in bits with the internal wires disconnected??
I can only tell you which controller wire colour goes to which pin on the Chrono.
 

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Stu, have you considered making your own tyres? Probably the cheapest re-shoe option. You might even be able to flog some off to other people to help pay for them.

You could try PVA glue for filling the track or plaster/wall filler/spak filler. Then paint over the top.
 

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QUOTE (Ember @ 6 Dec 2012, 21:25) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Stu, have you considered making your own tyres? Probably the cheapest re-shoe option. I did think about it Lynne, but the urethanes seemed to wear the quickest - even the 40a ones.

I've got one loop track section left to smooth by my blade + emery method. Once that's done, I'll pin the loops back onto their baseboards and blow them over with the grey paint. Then I'll evaluate my new Ninco tyres on some of my SCX 4wd GrA cars, when the track has been thoroughly cleaned and reassembled. It might all be done by Easter. Mind, having said that I just remembered I need to get my finger out because I've got a proxy entry to prep.
 

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then, all things considered, the Ninco ribbed 19x10's are probably your best bet. The SI C1's are soft & I definitely see why you're getting "hop"; it's too much grip.
I have noticed a difference in SCX track, I recently bought several "new" pieces & it is more coarse than the older stuff, but still nowhere near the Ninco track. We have very little problems sliding on Ninco around here, but I use a variable power supply set to 10, 11,or 12 volts, & most of us use at least a Professor Motor controller w/ variable sensitivity, if not variable brakes.
Finding your self a power supply & variable controller will likely solve your problem. I know they cost, but my power supply was $80 & the PM controllers go a little more. I have the sickness worse, I'm up to a Third Eye @ $269; but I race frequently in several groups & classes.
I still can't believe you're experiencing such high wear rates; I would love to have all that clag off-line!
 

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if you have a power sander, not a random-orbit one, too aggressive, some 120grit sanding will smooth it out. I have sanded a lot of the bumps down on much my Ninco off-road track pieces(they throw SCX cars off way too easily) w/ an old Bosch detail sander. You could do it by hand as well, it would just become an exercise of love or tedium as the case may be.
 
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