QUOTE (stoner @ 30 Apr 2012, 16:03)
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>as said before clean and clean again every thing to be soldered ,small dab of rosin flux on both surfaces then tin both pieces and apply a small amount of solder, when your fuseing the parts. on a brass and steel chassis youve got to get it very very clean, use an acid flux and silver solder for the main joints then acid flux and 60-40 solder for the smaller add on parts,like struts to the rear and front wheels, this has a lower melting point than siver solder so your less likely to to remelt the parts youve allready soldered. i tend to flux and tin all the parts to be soldered first, this gives a nice clean joint. i use a small paint brush to apply the flux. when tinning, the solder usualy flows only over the part youve just fluxed. so keep the fluxin neat and tidy,and you,l have a neat profesionable looking joint. you must scrub off the remains of the acid flux otherwise it will corode the metal. john
QUOTE (300SLR @ 30 Apr 2012, 18:19)
<{POST_SNAPBACK}>Using different melting point solders in a chassis is something of a mixed blessing.
If a high melting point joint does fail, its more difficult to repair without melting the other joints that were done with lower melting point solder.
That's one reason a lot of chassis builders use the same type of solder throughout.
Thanks, but I'm talking about electrical repairs here, not building chassis. I thought I'd said that already, My apologies if I haven't.
