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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi,

that's my first O2 car and I have no idea what should happen?
I read the manuel for SP44 but I don't trust the slot.it manual any longer because they are not really up-to-date and my SP44 doen't do that, what the manual promise.

I connected each front light with one of the connections. I connected the rear lights (outside LEDs) to the one real-light-connector. The rear light LEDs are connected in parallel. I connect second left light (in journey) with E1 and E2 with the right one inside.
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After I connected the grey cable with type C there was no light with O2 firmware. I can't switch on/off with the round BRAKE button. I checked whether there is connection between the pins of each white plugs on both boards. There was connection.

If I use the D132 firmware I only can switch on/off E2 with the Carrera LC-button (?).

If I put 12V and Ground on SP44, nothing happens if all lights were out before.
If I put 5V and Ground on the SP44, all lights (except E2) are on and begin to flash after some seconds.
If I put 12V and Ground on SP44 while the all LEDs (except E2) are flashing, the LEDs stop flashing, they are shining constantly and go out after a while.

Can anyone explain this behavior?
Does anyone know what I made wrong or is the SP44 defective?

Thanks for your support in advance.
Fluff
 

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ParrotGod
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11,488 Posts
If you are using a C1 chip, then you do not need to use the 5V and 12V inputs. Just use the flat cable.
Can you also confirm which version of firmware you have on the chip? The manual says 3.13 or above.
Looking at your pics (it is very difficult with the thin wires you are using) it seems that the rear lights are not connected in parallel to the LR+ and LR-: I should see a couple of wires on LR+ and LR-, but from your pics I only see one in each output. The LR output basically support rear lights and stop lights: when the trigger is released the brakes are on and the rear lights are very bright.
When you press the trigger, the rear lights stay on but they are dimmed.
I am not sure why you have wires on the ext ports and what you are trying to achieve.

Now, there are several things to clarify.
First, I need you to confirm that you have successfully paired your controller to the c1 chip.
In other words, you can use your SCP3 to drive the car with the C1 chip around.
This will tell us that you are able to power up the chip (we do not know how you have wired your c1 chip for the pick up: are you AC mode?).
Also it will tell us that you have established a connection with the SPC3 and all is working properly.
Then the other thing is the version of the firmware in the C1 chip for oXigen.

If basically you have a good connection between the chip and SCP3 and the right firmware, then to turn on the lights, press and release the throttle and then press and quickly release (it should be more like a flick) the big brake round button on the controller - do not press and hold down the round button!.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you Grunz for you support.

If you are using a C1 chip, then you do not need to use the 5V and 12V inputs. Just use the flat cable.
I only use the grey cable. Because there was no light (except E2 with D132 Firmware (3.16a)) I deconnected the grey one and tried 5V and 12V seperatly to check.

Can you also confirm which version of firmware you have on the chip? The manual says 3.13 or above.
D132: 3.16a;
O2: 316d

Looking at your pics (it is very difficult with the thin wires you are using) it seems that the rear lights are not connected in parallel to the LR+ and LR-: I should see a couple of wires on LR+ and LR-, but from your pics I only see one in each output. The LR output basically support rear lights and stop lights: when the trigger is released the brakes are on and the rear lights are very bright.
When you press the trigger, the rear lights stay on but they are dimmed.
I am not sure why you have wires on the ext ports and what you are trying to achieve.
I also tested from the connection holes of the PCB (with 2-3V) if the solder and cable connections of the LEDs are okay. Each LED was lit.

First, I need you to confirm that you have successfully paired your controller to the c1 chip.
In other words, you can use your SCP3 to drive the car with the C1 chip around.
Yes I can drive. Break button doesn't have any function.
(we do not know how you have wired your c1 chip for the pick up: are you AC mode?).
DC Mode.

then to turn on the lights, press and release the throttle and then press and quickly release (it should be more like a flick) the big brake round button on the controller - do not press and hold down the round button!.
I didn't do this in this way. I pressed the round button not so short. I will check this later the day when I am back at the track.

Thanks a lot.
 

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ParrotGod
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11,488 Posts
Sorry to hear that. You should ask the place where you bought it to replace it.
Slot.it always helps customers when there are defective samples of their products.
 
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