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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here are some of my custom builds, a couple of these I use as test chassis for my armatures. They are mainly SG+ based by BSRT & Viper... check them out...
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
VIPER stiff chassis, N10 Polymer motor magnets, #37 3.0 ohm armature, fully
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ballraced, 8t / 23t brass gears, soft compound rear tyres, independent front end
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Tomy SRT chassis, modified N10 polymer motor magnets, #37 3.0 ohm armature, tweaked motor endbell, fully ballraced motor can, 7t / 22t gears, Wizard premount silicone coated rear tyres, independent front end.
Custom moulded hardbody Mitsubishi Mirage hatch.

Don't underestimate this one ! The bugger really screams, she's quicker than a lot of the other chassis' listed here !
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Aurora G-Plus chassis, #37 2.9 ohm armature, modified Wizzard threaded brush tubes for brush tension adjustments, stock G-plus gears, silicone coated custom rear foam tyres

This old school sleeper kills SG+, Mega G and Mega G+ all day everyday ! The expressions of the defeated are priceless lol
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Very fast cars!

Interesting that I don't see any of these cars on NitroSlots. Where do you race them?

Cheers,
Ken
I don't, I run them at home for my own pleasure. I race my own lap times - the sense of satisfaction is priceless when I KNOW that I have made improvements to a particular chassis. I used to race 1:24 scale group 20 'wing cars' in 24 hour races when I was younger, but that was before I started building full scaled missles....
I do race a couple of my friends at times but they do it with the same attitude as myself...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Here is an original Mega G that I'm in the process of modifying, it's running stock Wizzard Storm gears, adjustable brush tubes, #36 2.0 ohm armature, hard compound rear tyres. I'm planning to installing a Wizzard aluminium independent front end on it.

One bad point of the original Mega G was the anchor point of the pickup shoes where it hooks onto the brush barrels, bouncing of the pickup shoes caused by rail joints of the track can break electrical conductivity hence causing unstable running. This will be fixed by soldering on some shunt wires between the pickup shoes and the barrels.

The Mega G did come from the factory with really good motor magnets which will handle my 2.0 ohm armature beautifully. I'm just getting the ride height/ traction magnets set up correctly. Once that's done, she'll really boogie...
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Here's a pair of trail bikes by Tyco, they are essentially a 440x2 underneath.
I reversed the location of the driving motor to stop it from tipping over around bend. It's now pulling the bike rather than pushing it from directly underneath...
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Here's one of the nicer ones - the chassis is totally hand crafted. The rear axle rides on the ball bearings i was talking about in my other post.
BTW, Slide Guide yea ?
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Sweet! (y)

Concerning the guide. I'm toying with adapting the Micro Scalex guide system. It looks very similar to Ed's. It's readily available where they sell Micro Scalex, and it's not very expensive.

Looking at the pic again. You got room for a guide under that chassis?? Wow that's low!

I would suggest trying 5-minute epoxy to install the motor. The gears will never over power the glue. A small flat screw driver pops it off in seconds without damage. I've made over 50-cars this way without any failures. Some motors were extremely powerful.

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Sweet! (y)

Concerning the guide. I'm toying with adapting the Micro Scalex guide system. It looks very similar to Ed's. It's readily available where they sell Micro Scalex, and it's not very expensive.

Looking at the pic again. You got room for a guide under that chassis?? Wow that's low!

I would suggest trying 5-minute epoxy to install the motor. The gears will never over power the glue. A small flat screw driver pops it off in seconds without damage. I've made over 50-cars this way without any failures. Some motors were extremely powerful.

View attachment 294152
Appreciate the suggestions but i'll be making a mounting plate and soldering it to the chassis this time, it will be incorporated into the next version of the chassis, the motor will be mounted using the two threaded screw holes that are already in the motor can. No epoxy or glue for this beast. Also, I will most likely trial another identical chassis but with one of my highly modified #36 or #37 2.5 - 3.0 ohm brush-barrel equipped Mabuchi can motors that were originally equipped with a brass can - I know aye - it's very unusual to find a mabuchi SH030 that isn't silver ! So I'll most likely be soldering the can directly to the chassis with that particular chassis. I spoke about those rare can motors in one of my recent posts - they were fitted to the earlier series of the Tyco HP2 from many years ago

Anyways, in this current version of my chassis, the guide holder has been soldered to the main chassis to allow for adjustments such as height relative to the guide and track surface for when the time comes to install the guide setup that I'll be using.

Photo below: Brass can Mabuchi's equipped with brush barrels ! I love them because I can modify the crap out of them lol I've even fitted hot-rodded versions of these motors to the AFX SRT / Turbo all because I can dial the brush tension to suit my custom armatures...you can see one of the motors in the photo has been wired to pickup shoe hangers for the AFX SRT/Turbo/SG+.. I install threaded brush barrels into the endbell and even screw in some heat sinks from Wizzard for when things warm up...
you can do so much with these old motors that nobody wants...
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Aurora G-Plus chassis, #37 2.9 ohm armature, modified Wizzard threaded brush tubes for brush tension adjustments, stock G-plus gears, silicone coated custom rear foam tyres

This old school sleeper kills SG+, Mega G and Mega G+ all day everyday ! The expressions of the defeated are priceless lol View attachment 294005
Everything in this and other threads by you is very impressive.

I wonder if those thumbscrews fit inside a normal clipon chassis as they seem to protrude from the chassis tabs. I like this idea of adjustable brushes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Everything in this and other threads by you is very impressive.

I wonder if those thumbscrews fit inside a normal clipon chassis as they seem to protrude from the chassis tabs. I like this idea of adjustable brushes.
Those screws are a temporary measure as that particular G-plus chassis is a test mule for other G-plus' I intend to modify with more powerful armatures. I will be using Wizzard grub screws for the threaded brush barrels in future G-plus builds.
Fitting stiffer brush springs does indeed make the armature perform better, the adjustable barrels makes it easier to dial the springs in. I also got a really small thread tap to make my own threaded barrels out of stock barrels for some of the chassis for which I can't find aftermarket versions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 · (Edited)
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Two of my lexan-bodied modified AFX SRTs, bodies sitting on plastic clips, these have been around for a long time, as a matter of fact, AFX released a small limited run of SRT chassis with lexan bodies and this Minolta Celica was one of them, these cars came with factory-finished bodies with decals already applied to the body, these were SRT and not Turbo - a lot of people don't understand the difference - the main improvement the SRT had over the Turbo was the two neo traction magnets mounted in a plastic retainer instead of the single block traction magnet.
Refer to photo above - the chassis at the top is a SRT-spec due to the pair of small neo traction magnets fitted.

The lexan body on the special edition SRTs was premounted onto a body clip like the ones I'm using on my SRT/Turbo above.

Below- a short limited run of the factory lexan-bodied AFX SRT Minolta Toyota Celica was released not long after Tomy acquired AFX.
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Add flares to the wheel arches and you'd have a Supra lol

Below: lexan body clips for the SG+ as supplied by the aftermarket - an alternative to fitting body tubes/posts to BSRT/Viper builds. You either agree with them or you don't.... lol
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