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Hi guys,

Here's somethings I wanted to share with you for some time, and as "teacup" aka "the ear" aka "Nico Rosberg" has just got his first win in F1, I'd say this is the perfect time!

First thing what I wanted to show is to pimp the Scalextric Start F1's. I used to drive with all my regular F1's but as of lately I stopped that, as I got too many broken wings and other aerodynamic bargeboard endplate diffusers mirrors Tcams and other wachamacallit.

So then I got myself some Scalextric Start F1's which are perfect for hard racing without the damage stress associated with regular F1's1.
And they are easily SSD digitized, (with some extra lead in the nose they count the laps great!) so only positives there.

The only negative is they sort of look dull in comparison to the detailing of the regular F1's.
But that is easily fixed!

Just use some paint(pens), and examples of the helmet and car liveries that can be found on F1 sites on the internet, and with a minimal amount of work you can achieve quite a looker! Just see the pictures for yourself!


The car on the left is as it comes out of the box, with "a guy" in a black racing overall and red helmet driving the car. Well, last time I watched F1, there are no guys in black in the Mercedes team, but there is one with a red helmet…
So with just a little repaint on the racing overall, and a little spicing of the helmet, anybody who is just a little into the contemporary F1 scene will immediately tell you who that 7 times world champion is who is driving that car on the right. The car is minimally spiced up as well (only a little extra turquoise painted on) but it will immediately increase the distinguish-ability of it being a 2012ish Mercedes F1 car.

He same goes for "the ear" (aka "Nico")… I have only one car of these, so only a finished picture, but you can imagine how he must have looked before
(just "a guy" in a black racing overall and yellow helmet…)




I have done the same to Jenson Button in his McLaren, of which I'll show you a Youtube vid in a second, as we come to the next part of the show.
The one that I know you've really been all waiting for!!!

Because as we are all guys, we are suckers for anything with lights, I mean a car with lights is so much nicer than the same car without lights right? Think of all those nice Porsche Slot'it cars, and as near perfect as they are, you can only admit that these would be even greater looking with lights on them right?

As we have seen in the Slot.it example just above, a slotcar WITH lights looks better than that same slotcar without lights.
Now how to transpose this to F1's?

The contemporary F1 cars sport a flashing red taillight that is mandatory on when the track condition is wet. So if only a way to make that work in 1/32...

Ladies (well only one afaik, from down under
) and Gentlemen, I present you: Flashing taillights for the F1's!


These can be bought for cheap on eBay, just look around a bit for Flashing red LEDs or so, and they come with a resistor already soldered on, so if you are driving analog (which I am not) then just solder the wires to the braids, and you are set to go.

If you are driving digital, then you need just a little more "wizardry" to complete a working circuit.

As the digital tracks use AC current, the circuitry inside the flashing led will not be powered constantly, and that will cause the led to be illuminating steadily i.s.o. flashing. I know it sounds like a "contradictio in terminis", but they really don't flash when put to the digital track, but light up steadily.

So start off by putting some black heatshrink over the flashing led, so as to block the light emitting to the side, and make it looking more like a taillight. Fold the LED wires 90 degrees to opposite sides, and put some black paint on the back, or else the led WILL shine to the front as well, and it looks not nice!! (when installed it is difficult to get the paint there so do it now…trust me on that one…)
(sometimes when bending the ledwires the supplied resistor will break clean off, so you might want to get some 470 ohm resistors as well, to fix things up.)


Next:

What you need are some diodes 1N4148 will do, or any other really small ones, that are rated for at least about 20 Volts and 50 mili amps. (the thingies on the left in the pic)
Second you need small capacitors, the smallest ones I had laying around are rated 1μ(micro)Farad and 50 Volts, and they work great! (pictured on the right)

Here's the diagram to solder it all together, make a little harness of it, so it'll fit in the F1 car.



The completed "harness" before installation.


Now put it in the car where the harness is around the motor and the taillight is simply resting on the lower rearwing element. (the way I routed the led wires is under the "hooks"that hold the rear of the motor in place).
Solder the wires to the braids, (so in the case of my the Scaley start cars on the ferrite man BEFORE the chip, so the LED will flash even if the car is just standing still on the track. (The ferrite man is on the left side of the car where the left sidepod is located. Just study the picture….


Now put the top of the car back on, and in most cases you can just let the taillight rest on the lower rearwing element. In some cases the wires are keeping the LED sprung a little above the wing, so if that is the case, just use a little blob of hotglue to keep the LED in place.



All set, and ready for the next race!!!

Until next time on "do it yourself in 1/32" !!!


 

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David J
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QUOTE (MartinT @ 16 Apr 2012, 17:38) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>as "teacup" aka "the ear" aka "Nico Rosberg"
Come on Martin, just cos the poor bloke has got a slightly sticking out ear doesn't mean you can call him nasty names and take the mickey.!!

Anyway, I have it on good authority that the 2012 helmet will look like this for the rest of the season.



You'd better get the milliput out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Haha, how convenient!
 

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*** Leo A Capaldi ***
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I took a different route and fitted LM3909 flasher chips with a small "button battery" for the supply. So these flash continuosly on analogue or digital tracks. I fitted tiny switches at the side of the rear wings to switch on and off. Did a bit of detailing on the cars as well (Scalextric Minolta team cars).

Leo

 

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Nice work Martin, they look great! Just as a side note, there is a F1 flashing light circuit from Overdrive Slot Service available at Professor Motor. But If you have the components already, then Martin's circuit is definitely cheaper!

and hey, that Lee looks just like the one I lit! Nice! (I added Luke also, great job!)

Jeff
 

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QUOTE (MartinT @ 16 Apr 2012, 10:38) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>So then I got myself some Scalextric Start F1's which are perfect for hard racing without the damage stress associated with regular F1's1.
And they are easily SSD digitized, (with some extra lead in the nose they count the laps great!) so only positives there.
Thanks Martin...
When you say easily SSD digitized, this is using the F1 chip board right?
Any tips as to how to digitize these Start cars? It looks very short on space for a board let alone the wiring.

Many thanks for sharing.... I was hesitating buying any F1 cars after hearing how easily the detailed ones get broken.
Cheers!
 

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Thanks for the compliments guys and gal!

@Sealevel: The start cars are indeed great for hard and serious F1 racing! The chips used for the Start F1's are either the "regular" F1 aftermarket soldering chip, or a DPR F1 chip can be used as well, I found the correct connector to turn it into a "regular"soldering chip. (the ebay link is at the bottom of this post) The advantage is twofold: The DPR F1 chip is even a little smaller than the regular F1 aftermarket chip, and it is cheaper. The disadvantages are: you need to buy the connectors off of ebay, (but are not expensive) and you need to supply your own ferrite man. (You could do without, but with a chance of much more chip problems like losing ID and what have you) So all in all I'd say they are about priced the same, so it is just the size that makes it worthwile.

DPR F1 chip with connector:


I hoped this would be an ideal setup, just file off some of the corners of the chip and the LED will push in the hole, unfortunately the driver's seatpan is too low when the top of the car is assembled (tried to file off as much as possible of the seatpan as I could, but still not enough room for the capacitor and the connector underneath...)

So unfortunately a NO GO on this setup.

Luckily there IS ample room behind the drivers seat so this is the preferred setup for the DPR F1 chip, you just need to make the LED remote.
Chip laying on it's side, Ferriteman with the braidleads on the left of the motor in the sidepod of the car:


The regular F1 chip WILL fit flat under the seatpan, you can just see the end of it in the bottom of the picture (sorry could find no better one of it)


@Jeff: You put me on to it when I saw your car on the SCX forum (on your awesome track!), but it took a while for me to find the General of which the pricetag was right for me!
For the headlights I used what they call warm white LEDS, and they give exactly the right nice "warm golden yellow-ish white" colortemp for the era before the ice white Xenon lights! And I put in double rear lights as well:

Yeeehaaaww!!!! (and then the multitone horn sounds
)

Are we having fun yet!

eBay link for the DPR F1 connector:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...em=180852816149

eBay link for the Flashing red LEDs:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/290582693654?ssP...984.m1497.l2649
 

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QUOTE (MartinT @ 17 Apr 2012, 08:52) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>@Jeff: You put me on to it when I saw your car on the SCX forum (on your awesome track!), but it took a while for me to find the General of which the pricetag was right for me!
For the headlights I used what they call warm white LEDS, and they give exactly the right nice "warm golden yellow-ish white" colortemp for the era before the ice white Xenon lights! And I put in double rear lights as well:
Yeeehaaaww!!!! (and then the multitone horn sounds
)

Are we having fun yet!

We are definitely having TOO MUCH fun! Nice to hear my efforts inspired some one, that's cool! I posted the car here too and had lots of nice comments on it. I used 3mm yellow LEDs in front but only 2 reds in the back. Nice job with 4 back there! You should have stuck Bo's arm out the window like I did, I think that's my favorite part!
 

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Thanks for the added info, Martin!
It is greatly appreciated.

Now I need to get some heat shrink tubing....... should I get an "assortment" or just one size?
I need some to do the PB separation plus any of this type of work, but I was not sure what size is best.

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi Sea,
If you go over to Hobbyking.com they sell heatshrink per meter for a price that is unmatched! If you make an account and log in, the prices go even lower!
Of course you will pay shipping and it takes some time to get to your house, but still a bargain! I shop there a lot for my other hobby: RC planes
Here's the link:
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/_...hrink_Tube.html

I got some assortment once at Dealextreme.com as well, and they ship for free, but it takes about 3 weeks to get to you...

I find it most convenient to have as many small sizes as possible...But if you need it NOW and go to your local electronics store it'll cost you quite a bundle...(For the price+shipping of 1 meter at Hobbyking, I can get about 15 CENTIMETERS in store here!!!)
 

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Thanks for the tips, Martin!
You were right.... a bundle of heat shrink tube on "that auction site" would cost much less on either of these sites.

I am assuming that you measure the wire diameter and order tubing 2x that size so it will fit when heated, right?

Thanks again.

Cheers!
 

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Yeah that's about the biggest size you'd go with...(I try to make it a tight fit (but it has to go easy over) as possible without shrinking, so you have to do less shrinking and apply heat for a shorter time. So thats why I want many sizes, so I can get it just right.)

Sometimes when you need to shrink something and the shrink tube size you have on hand is just too small so it won't fit, you can stretch the shrink a (little!) bit by putting it over needle nose pliers and forcing the beak open. (if you overstretch it just too much then the shrink will tear apart, then start over with another piece...)

Tata!
 

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Thanks again for the tips.
Found some great stuff at the sites you mentioned.... that was very helpful.
Cheers!
 

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Great thread. I have stacks of the pens you mension above. But never thought of putting them to a slot car. As for the LED's, Yep, done this a few times. BUT, never flashing. Great idea.
The LED's with Resistors attached on ebay. I cannopt find any like that. Plenty of 3mm Bright Red LEDs, but without the resistor. So i take it, just add a 470 and away you go?
OR, who did you buy from? (Insert EBAY Seller ID here)
Cheers.

QUOTE Ladies (well only one afaik, from down under tongue.gif) and Gentlemen, I present you: Flashing taillights for the F1's!
Nice touch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Hi Saviour,

These were the ones I got:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-PCS-3mm-FLASH...=item43a8140716

(should the link not work search for Item number: 290582693654)

The fact that they are wired for 12V tells you that they must come with a resistor. (and you can see it in the eBay pic: where the heat shrink is curved)

Again the resistors are very small and have very thin wire, I had some break off (at the base of the body, so they are not repairable) when I bent the wire, so it's best to get some spare 470 Ohm resistors as well, so you can fix them.

Good luck!

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
After getting some questions by members on how to wire it, I found out that there are some pictures missing from the first post, one of which is the diagram.
I think they were there before, but maybe not.

So I'll repost them here:





And here are some easier to understand drawings:




Hope this helps!

 

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Could not be clearer, Martin.
I expect someone will ask where one can find a ferrite man (or build one) if there is none present (and is there a correct way to connect the capacitor).
Many thanks.
Cheers!
 
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