SlotForum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm a complete beginner to this so please go easy with jargon/technical terms!

I have my track all laid out, running 2 straight lane changers, a corner lane changer, a pit lane and 4 x radius 2 crossovers.

I am running this from a 4 car powerbase, the track worked ok, however would stop and start in certain places so it was suggested to me to install power taps.

I have now done this to the best of my ability and am 99.99999% sure that i have connected the wires up to the correct lane and to the correct rail at either side!

Having now just plugged the powerbase back in to test the track, the cars seem to be running around the track slowly without the use of a throttle, the track is making a 'buzzing' noise and occasionally the powerbase green light begins to flash and all power to the track is lost!

PLEASE HELP ME!
 

·
Circuit Owner
Joined
·
5,893 Posts
It sounds like a short. Unplug everything before you get a fire or ruin a motor..

Remove the power taps.

Turn each track piece over and follow the instructions on this thread CLICKME

Put it all back together.

Make sure the track is clean - no tiny bits of braid in the slot where they can short across the rails.

Switch on and give it a go. Remember you should have no power taps connected at this point.

It should have improved significantly.

I suspect your original problem would not have improved greatly with power taps because a power tap to a distant track piece will help that piece but not the one next to it if the rail ends don't bind properly.

I assume the track will run OK now but if you still get power issues do the following..

Connect one power tap and see if the track works OK. If it doesn't - you have made a mistake wiring your power taps. If it does work OK then connect the next one and so on.

If you still get poor running (stutteringas you drive along) with your powertaps all connected properly then you could consider getting some Inox MX3 (search SlotForum for it - it is magic on digital tracks and braids).

I suspect you have been attacked by the 0.0001% gremlin
 

·
Prof I T
Ting Tong
Joined
·
11,085 Posts
hi
best approach is to crimp all the rail terminals. Push down on the tab that holds the kale in place and lever the female in slightly so when you push the track sections together you get a nice snug fit.

After you have done this to each track section and got hold of some inox you will not need powertaps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
excellent thanks for the advice!

I have a bottle of Inox so will try all this after work tonight!

My track is about 32 metres in length so will it definateley work without power taps? as previously i was getting some power surges in various parts as well!

Its been a nightmare!!!
 

·
Prof I T
Ting Tong
Joined
·
11,085 Posts
hi
inox has been a miracle find amongst the digital users on here. It works wonders but do use it sparingly. Just a few drops placed at random parts round the track and just run the cars round,you will soon notice a big difference. You can wipe off any excess....

After i started to use this on my old ssd layout i removed my powertaps to keep the underside of the table where it was sat on tidier..

This also had all the terminals crimped as mentioned above.

For a track your size you really ought to consider the 6car apb as the 4car pb does not put out much in the way of power to the rails and a running length of 33meters with a few lane changers it is going to come up short..

Have you noticed the difference when you go from running one car to running three at the same time.?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi Ade,

Just removed all my power taps and have given the track a wipe down with the inox (i sprayed it lightly onto a microfibre cloth and wiped the track with it) it runs smooth now until one part where it completely stops, just tried crimping the connections on that join and even tried a strip of copper tape over each rail but no joy! it also seems to stop after one of my lane changers as well?

I have just tried to run 2 cars and one controller seemed to power both cars? I did buy the 4 car PB from ebay for a minimal sum so possibly now thinking it could be faulty?

Think I will have to bite the bullet and invest in the 6 car apb. I've given up for the evening now, will try take some time tomorrow to dismantle the layout and relay it making sure every track piece is spotlessly clean!

Thanks again for your help.

Dan
 

·
Greg Gaub
Joined
·
14,672 Posts
Power taps are never a bad thing when installed correctly, but if there's a crossover, can make things worse.
Removing the power taps when they are the problem will help, but when the track joins are not nice and snug, will probably make power worse.
It seems like you probably have a lot of loose joins, and so pulling the taps and only crimping a couple joins won't help. The best solution is to take the track apart, crimp them all acording to that article, then reassemble the track. Re-install the power taps, being ultra careful about polarity and direction of travel, and things will probably be much better.

INOX is great for smooth running, and will eliminate stuttering and conduction related issues (rail to braid) but won't magically make a track with poor continuity (rail to rail) power work well. Yes, sometimes that is improved when the INOX gets into the joins, but it's better to start with a good solid join in the first place.

There are other ways to ensure good continuity. For example, dividing the track into large but manageable sections. Each section has it's own power tap, and each track within a section is jumper wired across the joins between pieces... short pieces of wire soldered to the rails on each side of the join. Thus, every single piece of track has what is essentially a soldered connection to the base track, and therefore has excellent power. This method would work no matter how much heat fluctuations a track goes through, or how much tweaking a track needs to fit together.

Another method is laying copper tape all over the rails. This creates an essentially continuous rail, and therefore power is great. The tape can break at the joins in some situations, though, requiring a new piece to bridge that gap.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just plugged in my old analogue PB as a test (and also as i was desperate to run some laps after all todays issues!) and all the cars (some none scalextric cars too, SCX etc) they all ran perfectly! full laps with no stops, nice and smooth and at a fairly fast speed, definateley now think there is issues with my 4 car PB? whats everyones thoughts?
 

·
Greg Gaub
Joined
·
14,672 Posts
There certainly could be issues with the 4 car base, but analog doesn't complain as much about power issues as digital does. The 4 car base just doesn't put as much power out as a large track would need, and loose joins only make it worse. That said, if you're considering getting the APB, then do it. It's everything the 4 car base only dreams of being, and that includes ample power supplied to the rails.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,879 Posts
QUOTE (dandan2012 @ 9 May 2012, 23:33) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I have just tried to run 2 cars and one controller seemed to power both cars? I did buy the 4 car PB from ebay for a minimal sum so possibly now thinking it could be faulty?
Hi Dan,

Maybe a stupid question, but have you id'd the cars individually since you bought them and with only one car on the track at a time when you id them?

Also, if you have a short on the rails I think it can change the id of a car.

Cheers
Chris
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top