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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I am relatively new to digital and the family was having a race. 3 cars were going and after my car deslotted and got put back on the track, nothing. No power. Tried to reset the ID, nothing. Tried the controller with another car and it worked. Tried the car with another controller, nothing. I have NO clue what to do or test next. Took the body off and there appear to be no loose or broken wires. It is a SSD Porsche Boxster that comes with the old lane challenge set.

Someone have any ideas? Is the chip fried?

Thanks!
 

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Living the Life!
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Have look at the components marked in this photo:
View attachment 10427
These MOSFETS are prone to blowing, the NO2 is prime suspect followed by PO3, or indeed both! These will need to be replaced if you can see any kind of surface disfigurement

Here's an obvious one:
View attachment 10428
 

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Greg Gaub
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If you can't see any damage, it might be a broken lead or wire. Even if you can't see a break, sometimes the legs on the "ferrite man" at the guide end will break, often inside the ferrite bead. Take things apart, and you might find that one of them just comes away completely. You'll need a soldering iron and some spare flexible wire (silicone lead wire) to repair, but it's likely that the car is otherwise fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Greg and Mr. F. I will take the car back apart in the morning. I had it apart and did not notice anything looking incinerated or even burned. I guess this will be my christening to taking these bad boys apart. I have a soldering iron but the only soldering wire I have is the thick lead free stuff for plumbing. The car went dead after deslotting and getting rear ended pretty hard so it would not surprise me if something I can't see broke loose. I will take it apart and take some pics if I can't see anything obvious and post them. Thanks guys and enjoy a weekend of racing!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Well all, it is as Mr. F. said. A broken wire in in the guide. It was broken all the way up in the core and was not visible. A tiny movement of the wires and it pulled right out.
Now the question is... how on earth do you fix it if it is broken up inside the "core"? I know I need to get some wire but what next??
Thanks!
Here is a link to the pic of the broken wire:
http://i1258.photobucket.com/albums/ii537/...zps48b625fe.jpg
 

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Living the Life!
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What you need is a capacitor .... a C103 to be precise. Where in the world do you live .... your profile gives no clues ...
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Sorry guys! I had a bit of trouble getting authenticated because I never heard back from my request. I decided to just try the logon info I entered and it let me in. I never got back around to entering private info.
I am a transplanted "yankee" who has been in good ol' Texas for the last 12 years. Living in the Dallas/Ft. Worth Area.
I will see if I can get the part I need, and Im sure I will buy more than one since I can foresee this happening more than once!
Time to get my old soldering skills back in action. Haven't done much of it since the 90's when I was into alot of R/C action. I sure do miss that ClodBuster!!
Thanks for the help! And if anyone knows of someone who has posted a "how to" on this subject, please send me the link!!
 

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Hi,

Not sure if it's the soldering or the re-wiring that you want a "howto" but it doesn't hurt to re-post this video which showed me where I was going wrong; I still end up with messy joints but they seem to hold up.
http://www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/I_NU2ruzyc4?rel=0

I had the wire break at the same point as you, but despite MrF's dark prognostications it hasn't happened again; I took the whole ferrite man & legs caboodle off a burnt out chip and transferred it, just cutting & joining at the yellow & green wires. I do use the silicon wire though on cars where the guides have eyelets.
Also, I think the car will work with without the ferrite man but the potential interference from the sparking spikes may cause ID loss and mess up lap counting & times - not sure if it leaves the chip more open to electrical damage as well


Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hello all,
Thanks for the info. I did get the guide area apart today and can now see how SMALL everything is and that soldering is not just cut and dry on these little parts.
Anyone have a good photo of a "repaired" guide after it has broken. I can now see how the capacitor works and why using more flexible wire instead of the legs of the capacitor would help but I would really like to see how it should look!
And if anyone can provide a list of everything I should get and recommendations, that would be great. I know there is something that people are putting over their joints that looks like dielectric grease but I want to be sure to have the right stuff.
Thanks!
 

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The second photo in this POST should reveal all to you ....
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks Greg,
But what I was referring to was what grade and gauge solder should I be looking for? Mr. F recommeded in another post a brand of lead wire for extending the length of the lead wires but if I cant get that brand, I am unsure what gauge wire that is. And finally, what are people using to cover wires. I see what either looks like dialectric grease or hot glue. I have also heard of using heat shrink tubing. I just wanted to get the experts opinions since what I buy will probably be used on many cars in the years to come so I want the purchases to be the "right" stuff.
Thanks again!
 

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OK .... you will need 3.5mm and 1.2mm heat shrink tubing if you want to do a proper job. If you wrap the wire tightly around the legs of the capacitor before soldering then there is no need for any glue ...... the heat shrink will take care of that. A cigarette lighter is ideal to shrink the tube ....... just make sure that you do not linger more than 2s. There is no need for grease on any of the wiring. If your soldering technique is not too hot
then get some silicone wire as it will resist the ravages of a soldering iron for longer, if not don't worry as virtually any wire of equivalent thickness will do. A simple "helping hands" tool is very useful to hold things steady whilst you work.

Finally, if you are starting out with soldering ....... read up about and practice on old stuff first .....
 

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Do make sure that you solder the wire to the feet and then to the capacitor. The heat shrink will provide insulation and help to strengthen the joints.

Having just re-read my last post I may have given the impression that heat shrink will fix the wire to the capacitor ....... it won't.
 
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