thanks guys, all my cars and pods are braced to some degree, only in the motor to back axle to stop any flex between pinion and gear. i just wondered if a non flex pod or chassis in that area i mentioned was aceptable. i haven,t got down to the one and only[ninco squared oval i think] club track in cornwall. guess i,d better get in touch and find the classes, rules, and regs. just waiting for some better weather for the bike ride to the club, john. just as an aside there,s not one manufacturer that provides adequate bracing from both sides of the motor to the rear wheel bearings, if a hotter motor is put in. or even a standard motor. hold any chassis you like and you can flex the gear mesh with your fingers.
thanks ray. i had no intention of buying one, at those prices. i was going to make an adjustable offset angle winder pod to fit my plastic chassis out of brass and steel wire. but the main questions have been answered, a- their banned and b- the shop bought ones are bad. still going to make one for my own amusement, based on the slot it mounting holes and braced properly in the right places. john
Locally, we prefer piano wire on the whole, as having greater rigidity than brass, but I've done brass braces too, they work okay.
Things like the Spirit Peugeot silhouette badly need them for high grip tracks, likewise Ninco. Same as you do I think John - across the back of the anglewinder case, and down onto the top of both axle bushes. "JB Weld is my friend"
But I have never found a need to brace a Slot.it pod, other than using their own wire thing at the back of an inline boxer setup.
Running a Flat6 R in a Nissan 390 with standard AW pod, we have them smooth as butter, and our track/tyre combos are higher grip than I've seen on any track videos. I broke the 17 fps average lap speed mark (5.2 metres a second) for the first time at one of our tracks a couple of weeks back and it has 2 hairpins and a corkscrew in 27 metres (89 feet) as well as a few other turns.
Our club rules are fairly loose and pragmatic. We have some 'stock-blueprinted" classes, where the basic car concept is good - eg Slot.it Group C, and others like muscle car and GT where all sorts of machinery, often designed for magnet racing is on track, and which needs all the help it can get.
At the recent battle of the manufacturers at Gaydon, we raced the Scaleauto Radical and used the alloy inline cradle. We extensively tested both plastic and alloy cradles on wood and plastic track and found that the alloy car was much more predictable than the plastic. It was really rapid around the Gaydon track, it was a pleasure to drive, really smooth. I have to say though I do like my cars stiffer than most so it suited my style, personal preference I suppose and if you have deep pockets!!!
maybe a sign of things to come. i found the avant chassis[inline] to be pretty good, but it takes a lot of filing to get everything working as it was designed to do, without catching or getting hung up. your right slotcrazy thats exactly how i do my bracing, except i extend the piano wire to the motor mounts both sides and put a downturn on the ends of the piano wire to glue on to the motor mounts. i usually use an infill of plastic under the wire glued all round from rear axle mount to front motor mount, using 2 part polyester resin. pig of a job to get right. but there is no, zip, nada, flex. ah! jb weld, the best and also a great friend of mine also. aa i can see what sort of cars you run when i take up your invitation, but seeing as its probably a 200 mile round trip on the bike, i wont make it to the club that often. once i,ve had a look i can bring some of my own cars to see how they perform. john
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
A forum community dedicated to slot car owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about collections, racing, displays, models, track layouts, styles, reviews, accessories, classifieds, and more!