[Bigtone]

I stripped my Corvette down today and have found that there is a definite kink in the rear of the chassis. On a tech block the right hand rear is 2mm off while the left is flat on the block. On the slot.It site they tell you how to straighten one of their chassis's. Put the chassis on a flat steel block and hold it down with neo magnets, next pour boiling water on it until covered and leave to cool down. Does anyone know if you can do this to an NSR chassis

 

[Guest]

yes

 

[Slim]

A word of caution.

Dont pour the water directly onto the chassis.

 

[lee.bes]

Another way is to secure the chassis to the metal plate with the magnets, as per the slot it way, but instead of pouring boiling water over it, use a hair dryer to warm the specific area of the chassis that needs straightening.

I find this works better than the water treatment as that method can take 2-3 attempts before the chassis is absolutely flat.

If you do try the hairdryer method, just be careful not to keep the heat on one area too long or you'll cook the plastic.

 

[Screwneck]

Taking into account that there's not much plastic at the rear end of an NSR chassis and that all the structural purpose of the rear end is taken to the motor pod, does it really matter that it is kinked?

By the way, don't use the hot water treatment as it's pretty hit and miss. If you pour boiling water onto platic it could have disaterous deforming consequences depending on how the structural design of the particular chassis reacts. Use a hair dryer.

 

[Flange]

Use boiling water technique and then heat the oven to 100 degrees... Turn the oven off and place boiling water and car on metal plate in the oven and let it cool down slowly...

 

[mrrc65]

Do as Flange said, works on most plastic chassis, I have some fly chassis distort.

 

[Guest]

QUOTE (Screwneck @ 10 Aug 2012, 22:04) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>By the way, don't use the hot water treatment as it's pretty hit and miss.

It's always worked for me and everyone I know who races.
Time for a new kettle ?

 

[Number 27]

I've found a mangle is very effective, but boiling water also works well.

 

[Guest]

If your wife is a bit of a bloater I am sure placing the chassis under her side of the mattress would work a treat.

 

[petestrike]

QUOTE (fw14b @ 10 Aug 2012, 21:53) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>If your wife is a bit of a bloater I am sure placing the chassis under her side of the mattress would work a treat.

i always have the greatest respect for a man that lives life right on the edge.....or is it jealousy of the man whose wife aint got a clue how to turn a computer on?!!.....

 

[Guest]

Excellent comment.

 

[Guest]

Put chassis on metal plate with magnets, put in container. Tip boiling down one side and let it cover chassis and motor pod, I tend to leave the axle on to keep things level. leave for ten mins (go and apologies to the wife) tip water out and run cold water until cold. Works for me on all chassis.

another tip if you need to warm your tyres up is to pop them under a large chest!

 

[CJA]

Ey Up,

If you use the hot water trick, remember to support parts of the chassis which might "droop" under treatment.

Please do this with the motor pod in place, otherwise you might find it won't fit afterwards !!.

Dont ask me how I know this !!.

If done with some forethought and care, it will work reliably.

vbr Chris A.

 

[JOHN SECCHI]

The way I do it is to fit the motor pod intended to be used screwed tight to the chassis then stick the chassis down to a flat steel plate using magnets [i use circular saw blade!], pour the boiling water but NOT directly over the chassis until covered and then a long cool down period. This last one is achieved by pre-heating an oven to say 120c then turning off, place the tray containing the chassis/hot water in the oven and leaving over night!
Next morning you will find a rusty soup and flat chassis, works every time!
[oneofwos]

 

[RichD]

We used to test plastics additives where I worked, so we had an injection moulding machine. After the melted plastic is injected into the mould the mould opens up and little pins push out the hot part. If the part is too hot when it is ejected it can cool too quickly and may not only warp but it will also have stresses that will cause warping later on. If you have to heat up a chassis you should try to cool it slowly to avoid stresses.