Hi Dave,
I know that you're waiting to see what paint job I will do with the Straker body I bought from you.
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Unfortunately you've got to wait some time before I'll start the project, as I got some other projects to go first.
And there are some parts I still have to acquire.
I hope you don't see my comment as an attack on your person, but I think your biggest problem is your painting technique itself.
This is how I'll do it. I've done similar paint jobs in the past on model aircraft. Unfortunately I don't have them anymore to show you.
First your body must be made smooth, things like the radiator lid, I would sand away and drill a hole instead, where to insert the lid after the paint job.
The panel lines are to rough and deep on the model, so these I'll fill up and engrave them again, like I did with almost all my resin models. I've done a small tutorial on the Mercedes W125 project I work on at the moment.
Make sure the body is fully grease free. I'll always give it a wash with a soap water and a soft brush. Then make sure all soap leftovers are washed away with clear running water. Don't tray to touch the model again with your fingers, I use medical gloves, and let it dry on air in a dust free plastic container, something like an ice cream box would be perfect. Drill some holes in the side of the box, to release the moister.
I don't know what kind of paint you use, but for such a job I would recommend Humbrol Enamel, some of you would swear on acrylics, but I'm not convinced on them.
A good double action airbrush is necessary on such a job, make sure it can tolerate oil base paints.
I would start applying a thin layer of Humbrol primer nr1, leave it to dry at least 24 H.
Then apply your white. Do it in very thin layers, and wait at least a minimum of half an hour. The thinner you apply your layers, the better your result will be, hold your airbrush a minimum of 25 Cm (10 In).
This process can take you a hole day. When finisched, leave the white paint to dray out for at least a hole week, Preferable in sunlight, the UV will help to harden the paint.
I agree with the others on the use of Tamiya masking tape, it sticks much better. But again do not touch your model with your fingers, put medical gloves on, than wash your hands so the talcum is washed away. I know it's annoying to where gloves during the masking, but it's for the better course.
Press the tape well in into the pannel lines, use a stump needle.
Than the black part, again like the white one, the thinner your layers are, the better. Wait here at least an hour in between, and make sure, to keep the distance between your model and the airbrush as big as possible. The paint almost has to dust down half dry on the model. And that was you biggest problem, your paint is to thin, wet and to much applied at one time.
Leave you model than to dry for 24 H before pulling of the tape. Do not pull the tape of under a 90° angle, always under a sharp 30° angle.
So Dave, this is how I'm going to do it. I now that the paint job on the model can be a pain in the as, but I think time and patience is your biggest ally.
Perhaps it's good to have an other project running at the same time, it keeps your mind of the model and gives it it's needed rest.
Anyway keep up the good spirit and let us know your progress
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Courage
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Cheers,
Danny
I know that you're waiting to see what paint job I will do with the Straker body I bought from you.
Unfortunately you've got to wait some time before I'll start the project, as I got some other projects to go first.
And there are some parts I still have to acquire.
I hope you don't see my comment as an attack on your person, but I think your biggest problem is your painting technique itself.
This is how I'll do it. I've done similar paint jobs in the past on model aircraft. Unfortunately I don't have them anymore to show you.
First your body must be made smooth, things like the radiator lid, I would sand away and drill a hole instead, where to insert the lid after the paint job.
The panel lines are to rough and deep on the model, so these I'll fill up and engrave them again, like I did with almost all my resin models. I've done a small tutorial on the Mercedes W125 project I work on at the moment.
Make sure the body is fully grease free. I'll always give it a wash with a soap water and a soft brush. Then make sure all soap leftovers are washed away with clear running water. Don't tray to touch the model again with your fingers, I use medical gloves, and let it dry on air in a dust free plastic container, something like an ice cream box would be perfect. Drill some holes in the side of the box, to release the moister.
I don't know what kind of paint you use, but for such a job I would recommend Humbrol Enamel, some of you would swear on acrylics, but I'm not convinced on them.
A good double action airbrush is necessary on such a job, make sure it can tolerate oil base paints.
I would start applying a thin layer of Humbrol primer nr1, leave it to dry at least 24 H.
Then apply your white. Do it in very thin layers, and wait at least a minimum of half an hour. The thinner you apply your layers, the better your result will be, hold your airbrush a minimum of 25 Cm (10 In).
This process can take you a hole day. When finisched, leave the white paint to dray out for at least a hole week, Preferable in sunlight, the UV will help to harden the paint.
I agree with the others on the use of Tamiya masking tape, it sticks much better. But again do not touch your model with your fingers, put medical gloves on, than wash your hands so the talcum is washed away. I know it's annoying to where gloves during the masking, but it's for the better course.
Press the tape well in into the pannel lines, use a stump needle.
Than the black part, again like the white one, the thinner your layers are, the better. Wait here at least an hour in between, and make sure, to keep the distance between your model and the airbrush as big as possible. The paint almost has to dust down half dry on the model. And that was you biggest problem, your paint is to thin, wet and to much applied at one time.
Leave you model than to dry for 24 H before pulling of the tape. Do not pull the tape of under a 90° angle, always under a sharp 30° angle.
So Dave, this is how I'm going to do it. I now that the paint job on the model can be a pain in the as, but I think time and patience is your biggest ally.
Perhaps it's good to have an other project running at the same time, it keeps your mind of the model and gives it it's needed rest.
Anyway keep up the good spirit and let us know your progress
Courage
Cheers,
Danny
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