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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Made an offer on this Strombecker, didn't hear until the next day. The guy accepted . Got it for peanuts . And , ohhh , what a little beauty . Tyres were shot , so I found some to suit . The only blemish is a slight hairline crack on the windscreen, but hardly noticeable . I placed it on my track , after shoeing it up . It went reverse , so I reversed the polarity , still very tricky , as the car is a mini mini 1/32 , similar in size to the Lil Cuc .
After the wires were reversed , I gave it a spin . Wow ...so smooth and the motor is quite a strong runner .
My questions ....
1. Who made the green motor for Strombecker ?
2. How do you pull the chassis apart . I know it's something to do with the blue pins , but they are in very tight ...is there a trick to it ?
Zig
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Hi Zig,

I assume the motors are by Igarashi, like all post-Mabuchi motors used by Strombecker.

The blue pins are a force fit, so you can just pull them out with a bit more force! I'm not very fond of those blue pins, or their so-called self-centering spherical plastic bushings (on their fancier 1/32 kits with the brass chassis), so try to replace all of those on my Strombecker cars!

Don
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Don ,
Thanks re the motor ID . So it's Japanese . Good little motor
Ohh , those pins ......I tried a few times to force them up , they are in like cement . I'm just going to leave them and worth about pulling it apart , when something goes wrong underside . I could try with a craft blade , but I thinki will do more damage than good . I will give the chassis inspection a miss.

Not sure on the vintage of the car , judging by the 1/32 size , I'm thinking 1965-1969 . I'm ok with Thingies , that's my field , but some of the new acquisitions...I'm in a new world .
Zig
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for that . Goes to show ..not all on the net is correct . Cheers
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The ad is talking about a Ferrari 365, but the Photo they chose to use is a Cheetah. This is what a Ferrari 365 looks like, at least Carrera's version. Car Vehicle Land vehicle Wheel Tire
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah , should have read more into the description ...oops ! That Ferrari looks good as well . This was the first Strombecker in Australia I have ever seen offered for sale on ePay with that green Igarashi motor .in truth , I only wanted to see how those motors performed . They are very nice small powerful motors . The car itself , I do like it , it is much smoother than the other longer versions I have and much quicker . I did notice on the internet , with one pulled apart ....Made in Hong Kong .
Zig
 

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Hi Zig,

I assume the motors are by Igarashi, like all post-Mabuchi motors used by Strombecker.

The blue pins are a force fit, so you can just pull them out with a bit more force! I'm not very fond of those blue pins, or their so-called self-centering spherical plastic bushings (on their fancier 1/32 kits with the brass chassis), so try to replace all of those on my Strombecker cars!

Don
SO, that can motor is made by Igarashi, the same folks that made the open frame motor?

That confuses me. It was my understanding the open frame motor's that Strombecker used were Igarashi, and Mabuchi can motors eventually replaced them? Have I got this wrong?

Help me Obi-Wan.

Andre
 

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Hi Andre, Igarashi, made both open frame and "can" motors used in the Strombecker cars.

They made a wide range of open frame motors (with varying performance levels), followed by a few can type motors, with the TC32 and the "Hemi" 300/400 type being of considerably better quality compared to the very early Mabuchi can (16D) motors. Certain variations of the "Hemis" are sought after today, and prices can be quite high for one in good shape...........both these Igarashi can motors performed very well.

The only Mabuchi used in the Strombecker cars was the "15R" (grey can), and only in the very early Strombecker offerings.

The "green" motor in the Cheetah above, also an Igarashi, was very much a "toy" car motor, from the 70's, and while it will move the cars around the track, its quality and performance (and its value) pales in comparison with the other Igarashi can motors.

Cheers
Chris Walker

If you are interested, there are several good Strombecker/Igarashi/Pactra articles to be found via google...........significantly more detail than I have mentioned here.
 

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Hi Chris!

Well, duh, I forgot that grey can motors were Mabuchi. NOW it makes sense: Mabuchi, Igarashi open frames, Igarashi cans.

Thanks for clearing up my corn-fussion.

erdnA
 

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Hi Zig, if you happen to break the blue push in pins, trying to seperate the body from the chassis, let me know by personal message, and i will get some to you. By the way, was looking at same Cheetah on aussie ebay myself, but didnt go for it as I already have 2 blue ones. One has brass competion chassis with Hemi motor. They go like all stink.
 

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A blue Cheetah, and a red Dino coupe' with aluminum frames and Igarashi open frame motors would be the only two Strombecker 3-pin cars that I could be interested in obtaining. Such were included in my Strombecker set I received for Christmas '66 and I have some very fond memories with that set and those cars. I'm sure they wouldn't go like the blue or green can versions, but that would be fine with me.

Nice snag on the little orange Cheetah! (I had several of those in my 1990s vintage slot activity!)

Andre
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks guys . Tell ya what Chris , for a toy motor , that Cheetah has some grunt . Maybe they turned off the armature winder too soon , and less formvar on the windings . When you think of all the Ft 16 , 16D , 26D , 36 and 36D ...I've yet found an exact performing motor , when I replace motors of the same specs. Each motor has its own characteristics and performance . It's quite weird with the consistency of vintage motors and I have a strong feeling , it all relates to the magnet pull of the Alnico magnets . iagx5 ....that would be great if I'm game enough to have a go at getting those nasty blue pins off ..I'm still deciding ...a bit chicken . But maybe down the track , I might try , if something fails .
Zig
 

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Never tried this before, but it's an idea I would be tempted to try...

Roll it over so it's belly-up, and give it a bit of shot of WD-40 at each pin area. Work the chassis side to side/etc as much as you can to allow the WD-40 to get under the pin flange and start down into the pin area. Leave it on it's back an hour or more... maybe overnight? Then try to extract the pins.

If successful, you can wash the body in warm soapy water to remove any residual WD-40. If not successful, you're no worse off.

Obviously, the above is FWIW. (Which ain't much.)

Andre
 

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What are the blue pins going into? Is it possible that an overnight stay in the freezer could loosen something up? In a sealed bag I suppose.
 

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Thanks guys . Tell ya what Chris , for a toy motor , that Cheetah has some grunt . Maybe they turned off the armature winder too soon , and less formvar on the windings . When you think of all the Ft 16 , 16D , 26D , 36 and 36D ...I've yet found an exact performing motor , when I replace motors of the same specs. Each motor has its own characteristics and performance . It's quite weird with the consistency of vintage motors and I have a strong feeling , it all relates to the magnet pull of the Alnico magnets . iagx5 ....that would be great if I'm game enough to have a go at getting those nasty blue pins off ..I'm still deciding ...a bit chicken . But maybe down the track , I might try , if something fails .
Zig
Hi Zig, When compared to the TC32, and especially the Strombecker "Hemi" motors, the little green ended motor they stuffed into their later model cars was feeble at best, A few of the variants of the "Hemis" were used by a few of the US pro commercial track racers, as they had stronger magnets vs. the initial 16D Mabuchis,.....this soon changed however.

Cheers
Chris Walker

PS I think I would avoid putting the car in the freezer, you may make the body post quite brittle!

A couple of exacto blades (or thin bladed screw drivers) on each of the "pins" should allow you to lever the posts out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Somebody from Farcebook sent me a message ( I very rarely go on that site, nothing is sacred ) , anyhow , he suggested to drill into the blue pegs with a very small drill , screw into the pegs with a small screw and pull them out with a bit of force. Then when you place them back in , all that you will see is 2 small drill holes , and you can pull out the pegs anytime you wish. Not a bad idea .
Zig
 

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Somebody from Farcebook sent me a message ( I very rarely go on that site, nothing is sacred ) , anyhow , he suggested to drill into the blue pegs with a very small drill , screw into the pegs with a small screw and pull them out with a bit of force. Then when you place them back in , all that you will see is 2 small drill holes , and you can pull out the pegs anytime you wish. Not a bad idea .
Zig
Somebody from Farcebook sent me a message ( I very rarely go on that site, nothing is sacred ) , anyhow , he suggested to drill into the blue pegs with a very small drill , screw into the pegs with a small screw and pull them out with a bit of force. Then when you place them back in , all that you will see is 2 small drill holes , and you can pull out the pegs anytime you wish. Not a bad idea .
Zig
I just use a small screwdriver to pry the pin up a bit, then get my needle nose pliers on it and yank. It goes into a post on the body molding. No need to get fancy. The green motor was called the "Wasp", but I can't speak as to it's' origins. And the later cans, TC series and Hemis, were actually from Hitachi, I believe. The Perfesser could confirm all this. My favorite for home running is the TC32 that came with the brass comp. kits. Very friendly and responsive on 12v and about 25 ohms. There was a variiation in some other RTR's that I've come to call the "short can 32", also a great motor. And being shorter than a 13d, actually works out well in some skinny sidewinder arrangements! BTW, I know all this is doc'd somewhere on this site: try the extensive "Strombecker beginnings" thread.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Most likely is documented somewhere . But it makes for great revision bringing it back . Sometimes I look for ages trying to find stuff , it's there somewhere I'm sure , but scrolling through lots of posts , eventually makes you give up . No fault of the organisation or the archives , just so much information stored .
Zig
 
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