[Ross]

Hi there, i have recently (2 days ago) completed cleaning and creating a big scalextric layout in my loft. The lanes are lengths: 19.99m and 19.75m and the track is a mixture of classic and sport scalextric. I hooked up a classic power pack and throttles and did not expect both lanes to be powered fully, and they were not, the 2nd lane cut out power half way round.

Therefore i tried to use the sport power base to supply the other lane just so we could get both lanes working. But i could not get the sport supply to work. I also tried using an even older classic power pack to power the other lane but the pack seems to be broken or something as power is jerky and not as strong as the cars move slower.

Does anybody have any ideas as to why the sport power base does not supply power to either lane and any suggestions to get it working?
Bear in mind i am electronic illiterate and will probably not understand very technical language!!

I also read that i may need booster cables to keep power consistent around the whole track, how often will i need these around the track and how do they work?

Thanks in advance,
Ross

 

[Swissracer]

Best trick with older scalextric track is to build the circuit then seperate it at the finishing side of the power section. Drive a car slowly round the track looking for dead areas and then fix the joint either by using a screwdriver to bend the tabs back in or with silver foil in the joint. Eventually you will get all the way round.

I would use power taps every 2 to 3 metres with older track and invest in some decent adftermarket power supplies, preferably (wallet agreeing) one for each lane.

As for Scalextric Sport, have you read the leaflet and bent the connecting tabs down slightly before locating them? makes a big difference!

Power base:
Do the cars power up on it at all? try connecting it to the transformer and test each lane when it is not connected to the track. If this is Ok, connect it then see how far the cars get using the techniques above.

If it does not work and it is new - get an exchange from where you bought it but I think you will find it is all down to the connections round the track.

Good luck and post pics! we LOVE pics here

 

[Ross]

Added a bit of foil between the converter straight and a classic straight and that fixed one joint, then the power broke at the 2nd part of the pit lane. A few wires have come apart from the lane under the track and need a good soldering back on!!

Need to go pester one of my mates for a soldering iron if they've got one, will use normal straights for the time being

.
Cheers for the help Swiss

Will do some pics later, just doing rest of track now

 

[pault86]

Pictures are always nice.

You can find pictures of the two different ways to do powertaps - booster cables or distributing power to several points through a central junction - in this tutorial.

The pictures of how to do powertaps are about 4/5 down the page, in the section entitled, "The driver's station is just part of the power distribution plan for your layout."

Paul
Circuit TrustChrist

 

[varakeef]

Really nice hints there.

I bought a good number of very old (made in UK) Scalextric track parts. I have some power issues too. One thing I noticed that some of the track pieces (or most of 'em) are oxidated, the've got quite dark.

I wonder would it help if I took a bit of fine sand paper and sand them a bit to allow better contact between track and the car. I remember my oldTyco 1:43 track had a piece of sand paper with it and there was a recommendation of using it.

Does the same thing apply to Scalextric track?

 

[Ross]

The best thing for cleaning scalextric track has to be the Pleby cleaning kits, i got mine off ebay for £10 and it cleaned up all my track a treat

Plebys Site

 

[Isetta]

I would positively not use sandpaper or any harsh abrasive on Scalextric track.
The track appears to have a very thin chrome plating layer, if you lose that, I think you would be forever fighting corrosion problems.
I personally don't think that the dark oxydising on the track rails, (as opposed to red rust) significantly affects the pickup braid continuity.
If you want shiny, perhaps a mild metal polish such as duraglit or automotive chrome polish would work? I have heard of using ordinary pencil erasers.
Cheers, Tom.

 

[varakeef]

Ok thanks, no sandpaper then.

Does anyone know, what does the Pleby's solution (cleaning fluid) consist of? I'm not after perfect formula but more what's the main ingredient.

And the "very own purpose made track cleaning blocks"? Presumably something softer and more mellow than sandpaper, a spongelike thingie to rub the track right way?

You see, we have gloves and cotton cloth here in Finland too - and most probably the main ingredient of the cleaning fluid is also available. Don't see too much point in ordering such things from UK... Free enterprise is nice in itself, but I find it bit tiresome to pack very basic stuff into small packages and call them "kits".

sorry about the rant

I definitely going to try pencil eraser. And aluminium foil. And self made power booster cables.

 

[Isetta]

For Scaley Classic joins that are problematic, instead of aluminium foil, try this:

With soda pop "ring pull" type tabs, the ones with a ring pull and a pear shaped bit of can lid that pull off.

Scratch off the paint and/or varnish to bare metal from both sides of the pear shaped tab.

With light Tin Snips or heavy Kitchen Scissors, cut the tab into 2mm X 10 mm strips.

Push a strip down between the rail and the plastic track, bridging the track join. Push it well down so there is no edge for the pickup braid to snag. A light smear of Vasaline on the strip is also benificial.

This will ensure good continuity across the join. It works well for me on joins that previously drove me nuts. I frequently assemble and disassemble my track. At disassembly, I retieve the strips for re-use next time...strangely, seldom on the same joins!

Yes, of course you could do the same with thin gauge copper strip from the hobby shop, but a free fix is a more satisfying fix

Cheers, Tom.

 

[varakeef]

QUOTE Yes, of course you could do the same with thin gauge copper strip from the hobby shop, but a free fix is a more satisfying fix

You nail it there.

QUOTE Push a strip down between the rail and the plastic track, bridging the track join. Push it well down so there is no edge for the pickup braid to snag. A light smear of Vasaline on the strip is also benificial.

I guess I get this one, but a picture would be nice... What's wrong with aluminium foil, btw?

 

[Isetta]

QUOTE What's wrong with aluminium foil, btw?

Nothing I guess, I've seen it recommended on this site many times, but never tried it. I stuck with what worked for me. I keep the strips in a 35mm film tub. Every time I assemble the track and, as always (mostly on the Classic part), have some bad joins - I just slip in an afforementioned strip and "hey presto" good volts and no bad ohms

Cheers, Tom.

 

[varakeef]

I tried aluminium foil and now my track works like a charm. I had to fill quite a many joints, but eventually car goes fast also in the remotest classic parts too.

But actually, the metal strip version seems tempting, I have to admit. Seems like a faster way if you have to remove the track for example off the vacuum cleaner racing line... and wife thinks I have to.