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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am wondering if slot.it can confirm that max RPM (i guess) of the motor that would be safe to use with either of the oxygen chips.
While I understand the slot.it motors should work, I wonder if there are any motors that will burn the chips ?

additionally, There are cars such as NSR and Avantslot which have motors (long cans) which I wonder if are safe to use with this system.
I have a NSR Porsche 997 that I would like to try.
 

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Gary Skipp
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I can confirm that the following work fine;

FLY Mabuchi
Ninco NC2
SCX RX42

Not particularly meaty motors but it's a start...

Slot.it Flat 6 works fine too (unsurprisngly), as does the V12/3 orange endbell
 

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I am currently running sidewinder slot it cars with a 29k motor with no issues ( at this stage) with 15 v directly to the track.
 

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This is more a function of amperage draw than RPM, and the two don't necessarily correlate.

Robert Livingston's motor list over on Dave Kennedy's blog (slotcarnewsblogspot.com) is probably one of the best places to start for a fairly comprehensive list of motors. For those motors that list wattage simply divide watts by the voltage the motor was tested at to get amperage.

One can probably use 12v x 3 amps = 36 watts as a general guideline. So... Any motor listed that is less than 36 watts at the rated voltage should be ok. (of course, if you race at a different voltage you will need to adjust the calculation accordingly. )

And with a peak momentary draw of 6 to 7 amps supported by Slot.it's chip there is plenty of breathing room for slamming the the throttle out of those corners. :')

B
 

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As Belator says, the limiting factor is current. so that would be the most useful number to have for each motor. Unfortunately that information isn't always available.

There are sizeable variations in current between different types of motor with the same RPM rating, so RPM rating as such is irrelevant. Higher RPM versions of similar motors usually take more current, so the RPM rating might be some help.

Motors take more current stall current at higher voltage, as a rule of thumb current is proportional to voltage (so for example 10% more volts will mean it takes 10% more current) So where a stall current is quoted, to be fully useful you need to know at what voltage.

The maximum current will almost certainly be the stall current which will be drawn briefly when the throttle is pushed full down at a standing start. Depending on the details of the chip circuit, it may be possible to get away with a brief peak current above the normal continuous current limit.

That slot car news motor list is an excellent resource. It says it calculates power using the formula

((Max RPM/2)*(max torque/2))/100,000 = Watts

That's a calculation of mechanical power output, so is rather indirectly connected to maximum current.
 

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Gents
High Motor RPM
Is the least of your worries concerning chip capacity: as the RPM rises the Amp draw drops.
I think that we can safely say that 99% of the commercially available 1/32 plastic production motors will remain well within the 3amp cont./ 6 amp peak range that Slot.it specifies for the 02 chip.
There might be cases were cars run with extreme amounts of "magnatraction" will approach these limits, but I expect the motors to burn out before the O2 chip does

In general 1/32nd PP motors don't use proper springs to push the brushes to the comm but little strips of metal.
As high Amp's are drawn the resulting heat slowly kills the springrate of these strips and reduces brush pressure resulting in less torque.

Yesterday we were back at our club and tested the O2 chip in one of our 1/28 Kyosho Gr C's with a metal PN chassis.
Weighing in at 172gr (twice the weight of an average 1/32 Plastic production) we ran the O2 chip with the ProSlot Euro MK1 with 25,5 x 13 Scaleauto Procomp 3 tyres on a grippy Carrera track....
Without any problem



So to add to Gary's list

FLY Mabuchi
Ninco NC2
SCX RX42
Slot.it V12/3 orange endbell
Slot.it Flat 6
Slot.it Flat 6R
Pro Slot Euro MK1

O2 Power supply
On a different note, as the cars are no longer restricted to a specific lane
your power supply might be an area where you could experience capacity problems.
Even on home tracks with six cars drawing 3 amps each at full power under full acceleration (6 x 3 = 18 amps) and you can clearly see where you might need an upgrade to get the max power out of your motors


with kind regards
Tamar
 

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QUOTE (tamar.nelwan @ 19 Apr 2012, 14:26) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>I think that we can safely say that 99% of the commercially available 1/32 plastic production motors will remain well within the 3amp cont./ 6 amp peak range that Slot.it specifies for the 02 chip.
There might be cases were cars run with extreme amounts of "magnatraction" will approach these limits, but I expect the motors to burn out before the O2 chip does
Agreed those current limits cover the great majority of motors used in 1/32 plastic chassis cars.

Higher performance versions of some of those motors do exceed those current limits. These higher current motors are readily available and are widely used in metal chassis 1/32 classes. Although these higher current motors physically fit in 1/32 plastic chassis cars, they are rarely used there because they produce more power than is useful in just about all plastic chassis cars.
 

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QUOTE (300SLR @ 19 Apr 2012, 16:30) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>.."These higher current motors are readily available and are widely used in metal chassis 1/32 classes"...
True..but then again... I don't see ISRA starting a digital competition for their 1/32nd International class...might be fun though


QUOTE (300SLR @ 19 Apr 2012, 16:30) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>.." Although these higher current motors physically fit in 1/32 plastic chassis cars, they are rarely used there because they produce more power than is useful in just about all plastic chassis cars.
Speed is relative.
Yes!!!! totally agree...as this is exactly why digital brings so much fun back into the game, its no longer about downright speed, ticking of fastest possible laps in a given time..
...it brings true racing back to the slot......meaning staying in front of the other guy and getting across the finish line just before he does


But this thread is more about reassurance...question: Will I fry the O2 chip with this or that Plastic production motor..I think we can safely say...NO
Although both geniality and stupidity will prove us wrong..in some cases

So for some it is easy to have a thread were guys can check if someone has used a certain type of motor..without causing a national black out
 

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i think theres only 3 or 4 comercially available motors that take up to 4 amps, of the top of my head, tsrf d3, falcon 7, and any of the american handout motors for metal chassis racing. the motor list gives you all the info you want. so its pretty safe to run about 99% of motors. john
 

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And then again. it is basically all about just one thing: The current draw at start off. This can be easily resolved by putting extra mosfets in paralel to the existing one. Maurizio can tell if possible. You could easily do it yourself I reckon.
 

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As I've already said, the current limits of those chips cover the great majority of motors used in 1/32 plastic chassis cars. but as higher current motors are also being discussed, it's worth just to clarifying a few points .

In fact there are many dozens of commercially available slot car motors that take way over 6 amps peak.

Motors such as the Falcon 7 do take over 6 amps peak, but in normal use only for a short period - not safe on a 6 amp rated MOSFET but you might get away with it (particularly if the track power supply and track wiring are not sized for higher current motors). There are of course much higher current motors than Falcons.

Robert Livingston's motor list concentrates on motors suitable for plastic chassis slot cars, not these faster motors.
 

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QUOTE (tamar.nelwan @ 19 Apr 2012, 19:40) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Speed is relative.
Yes!!!! totally agree...as this is exactly why digital brings so much fun back into the game, its no longer about downright speed, ticking of fastest possible laps in a given time..
...it brings true racing back to the slot......meaning staying in front of the other guy and getting across the finish line just before he does
It is a matter of opinion if the digital is more or less fun, it is a matter of opinion if digital racing is worse or better. Indeed there are some very held views each way.
Fortunately there is no problem with each doing their favourite sort of racing, so both sides can be happy doing what the sort of slotting they like best.
 

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Totally agree with one remark: If you are a true racer you would embrace overtaking. If you are just focussing on how fast your car can cut the corners setting a top time on your lap doesn't do it for me although I like the game in itself. We have a standard naming for this: MAN OF SPEED. This is usually a game with same car, same controller, same setting with an occansionally splash and dash to kreep the parameters equal. It is fun in itself but does not say remotely a thing about racing itself......
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So based on the information posed here, would it be safe to say that:

I have a Scaleauto SC-0013 motor
29,999 rpm @ 12v
0.30 Amp.
220 Gr/cm

the motor above (which I just bought ) will not cause the oxigen chip to burn?
I really do not want to kill a $50 chip. Can I be confident it will work just fine? - What do you think Slot.it
 

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Hi Profoxcg
I guess that motor would be OK on an oxygen chip, but all you can do with that information is guess.
Unfortunately 29,999 rpm @ 12v : 0.30 Amp. : 220 Gr/cm is missing the vital piece of information - it doesn't tell you the peak current.
The 0.30 Amp. figure is the sort of current to be expected when that sort of motor is free running, the peak current will be a lot higher.
Motors with that sort of spec would normally have a peak current comfortably within the oxygen chip limits
 

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I need help with a stuttering car.

I recently installed an O2 "type A" in-car-chip in a Ninco Audi R8 GT3 and I'm not getting a smooth power delivery (the car is stuttering).

The motor is a Ninco NC-12 Crusher+, rated at 23500 rpm at 14.8vcd. I've run the car at voltages between 11 and 15 volts.

It's wired up according to the instructions (same as the other four cars) with capacitor and ferrite choke in place. The car is UN-magneted. I suspect that the capacitor is faulty.

Would that be right? I've an unused chip I could try, or I could just borrow the capacitor from it and see if it fixes the problem.

Does anyone have any advice?

Peter.
 

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Have you updated the controller and car chips to the latest sw?

My cars were stuttering around the track when the controller sw was updated to 2.11
but the car chips were still at 2.03 ( due to laziness).
But all good after updating car to 2.08.
 
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