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So after my Vanwall build and a bit of a rest I've been looking around for (simpler) things to do.

It occured to me a long time ago that the era of Formula One with least cars available is the 1970's. There can be lots of reasons for this and some have been discussed before but it seems to me that as time goes on and us younger sloters who aren't perhaps as romantic about the '50's and '60's (we can't remember them) as our predecessors gradually increase in numbers we might begin to see a growth in this area.

There are lots of things to support this. The cars are wider, with larger tyres and so are easier to build, faster and handle better.

Suffice to say that the '70's represents that era when F1 went from cigars to real aerodynamics with so many different and sometimes strange things being tested. The cars come in all types and sizes and that makes building and racing them fun.

So I've started building whatever's out there and the first thing I've tried is the Surtees TS16. This car ran from 1974 to 1976 I think. My model represents the early 1974 version.

It is of course just a kit bash of the matchbox kit so this is a well trodden road but hopefully my built offers something different and will help kindle the flame of interest in this era.

I started back in June and this is what I came up with:

basic brass chassis cut out to represnt the plastic kit chassis closely.

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showing the body

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the chassis almost complete

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engine detail

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internals

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complete with 3 colour paint job and original decals (a bit yellowed)

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and finally underneath

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I hope you enjoy it. I wanted to use as many kit parts as possible so it would look good but also wanted to get in the scaley motor so it would compete with the other '70's cars on offer from the manufacturers. It goes fairly well and is reasonably robust except for that rear wing.

If I could have looked far enough ahead I'd have made the roll bar in brass soldered to the rear axle mounts inside the body with a spigot up into the air box as that zone is going to break as soon as I turn it over which I will probably do tonight when it gets the full track test.....

Cheers

Andi
 

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Andi, that looks awesome!

The chassis is a work of art as well.

May I ask what you use to cut it out from the sheet?

And I also noticed that you drilled a bunch of holes around the guide area. I assume this helps when making the final cut out?
 

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This is probably my favourite F1 era. I certainly would like to see more on the market-especially a Ferrari 312B! What a pity Scalex never followed the M23/312T2 set with something similar. The TS16 looks superb-what rears did you use?.
Just a thought on the airbox-I have found that sometimes if smaller items are attached too rigidly then they can break in a collision rather than just pop off. I have had some success with PVA. I'd be interested in peoples thoughts on this.......

TED......
 

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Phil Kalbfell
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Very nice build Must get mine started now that I have just finished two cars from that period.


I like this period of cars almost as the 1.5 litre cars.
 

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Andi,

Another brilliant build on a great chassis. (Puts my version that I mounted on a Fly 716 chassis to shame!!)

Thanks for sharing and keep up the good work.

Cheers,

Philip
 

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Gregory Petrolati
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Very nice work... and I'm not overly fond of open wheelers!

Greenman62
 

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Really great work on a car from a great era.
 

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QUOTE (Dickie @ 4 Aug 2011, 15:23) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>May I ask what you use to cut it out from the sheet?

And I also noticed that you drilled a bunch of holes around the guide area. I assume this helps when making the final cut out?

Hi Dickie, i don't have a fret saw so use metal shears, a jig saw and a hand saw. Then it all gets hammered flat and filed off by hand. The chain drilling allows me to go straight to the needle files in that area.

A bit laborious but not more than a few hours work really!
QUOTE (abbo @ 4 Aug 2011, 15:24) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Fabulous.

I've tried to mod one of those kits twice... and failed twice


ABBO
Well third time lucky then ABBO!

QUOTE (tedm @ 4 Aug 2011, 15:36) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>what rears did you use?.
Just a thought on the airbox-I have found that sometimes if smaller items are attached too rigidly then they can break in a collision rather than just pop off. I have had some success with PVA.

TED......
The tyres and wheels are Ostorero Lotus 79. I purchased in the US from electric dreams as they sell them cheaper than Osto themselves. They are lovely and grippy.

I like the pva glue idea and will try that in future. Actually in track testing last night on a fairly fast and busy 8 lane track night no real damage was done so the xar is reasonably robust!

Thanks for all the positive comments folks the next one in the series should be with us soon......

Andi
 

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You could make a racing spare wing useing Sterolishography. Shapeways lazer scinterd nylon is tough unlike kit plastic. Replace it when not racing. The stereolith is not as good, as the minimum wall thickness is about 0.9mm and the surface slightly rough unless you polish it before painting. I have not tried a high build primer om it which might be an alternative.
 

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Anthony Bartlett
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One other idea I have seen used successfully - the upright for the rear wing - the black portion in your picture - use high density foam - It can be shaped and when you crash - it bends rather than snaps and when painted - looks 'real'
 

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I clocked up a few laps with this car last night and have to say it is very stable, quick and fun to drive. A superb poece of work Andi, no less than we have come to expect from you. Thanks for a great evening too. Was that icecream good or what?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
QUOTE (UshCha @ 5 Aug 2011, 08:02) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>You could make a racing spare wing useing Sterolishography.

QUOTE (abie321 @ 5 Aug 2011, 10:33) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>One other idea I have seen used successfully - the upright for the rear wing - the black portion in your picture - use high density foam - It can be shaped and when you crash - it bends rather than snaps and when painted - looks 'real'

Both interesting ideas. I took a different approach which I failed to photograph before I covered it almost completely.

When I constructed the rear wing mount with the exhaust holders and rear of the gear box (all plastic kit items) I drilled a 1.5mm hole right through it diagonally. To the rear of the chassis before painting on the centre line under the pinion I soldered a 1.5mm dia. brass rod which then bent up at the correct angle so that the plastic support assembly slid down it and was therefore extremely strongly held. I filed the brass tube square in places so that once it was well filled with superglue it could never rotate.

If you look real close at the engine detail assembly before the wing itself was fixed you will see this brass rod glistening at the top of the upright!!

So the assembly itself, at the level where impact 'usually' happens is very strong. The potential problem is the wing itself is then simply glued to the upright and this would indeed come off in a big accident. I actually like the PVA glue idea. If i'd used a non permanent glue here it'd just 'pop' off without damage.

Anyway despite Graham rolling it twice last night nothing actually broke so its going to be fine for what i need it for......

Andi
 

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Another great car Andi, Love those rear wheels.

Ive got most of the bits for this kit knocking around having considered a kit bash many years ago, but couldn't figure how to get a Johnson or Mabuchi into it, so I gave up!

Now we have those Scaley ff motors I might give it a re-think.......
 
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