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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My first routed track is a 3-lane road course based on Suzuka that I found in the May 1965 issue of Model Car & Track. It's roughly 17'x4' and includes a longer straight as recommended in hindsight by the original designer.

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I've finished the open bench work, joined the routed sections, then added elevation. I opted to limit the highest point to 7.5", rather than the 9" called for in the original plan (9" to 0" in 48"!). Thanks to RichD and SpeedyNH for advice. I ended up trimming off less than 1/2" off the final straight to get it all aligned and neatly joined. I particularly enjoyed shimming up the outer edges of most of the turns.

The plan is for an early 60's theme with period Monogram and MRRC buildings and scenery to bring it to life. I hope to spend evenings this week finishing the overpass (narrow the aprons a bit and add walls, filling gaps, and sanding. Painting next weekend using a flat latex exterior paint.

Down the straight towards the pits.

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View from the opposite end looking towards the higher 7.5" elevations.

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And a close up of the latter. I'm curious whether more experience builders think of the crest and whether it's too abrupt and might cause problems. The original design called for a flow that dropped down to the underpass and through the squeeze beyond. I'll run it bi-directional, but think I fave a reverse flow due to the blind spot created by the underpass. The track is a base 28" high, so you can see all points on the track, save the underpass. I'm also curious about what people use for decorative siding. A Parma manual I have calls for layered veneer, but I'm thinking of using 1/8" tempered hardboard. Is that advisable? Thanks

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ah. I should have read the Forum Handbook. It seems iPhones and iPads require special technique so photos are aligned correctly for those using other devices (and then perhaps misaligned for those using IOS). A lesson for future. Apologies for any viewer neck pains.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Some progress this weekend. Joints and screw head holes filled with Durham's Water Putty (went with low odor option). Added an MDF board with some additional supports for the pit area. Slot and track sanded smooth, possibly too smooth in an area or two (circuits have dips, right). Currently has a coat of primer in the slots and on the track surface. I'll add a second coat and sand smooth for two coats of paint. I went with a water based primer and flat exterior latex. Both tinted "Wet Pavement". I came across the color and "Regenmeister" immediately came to mind, so the choice was made.

I'm debating trying my hand at weathering the track. I saw a post on splattering droplets of alternating white and black paint with a dry brush to simulate crushed stone. I'm wondering if I can achieve a similar effect with misted spray paint. Anyone done that? I've some scrap MDF to practice on.

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That's a splendid track sir!

I particularly like your stack of books, coincidentally I was watching a program last night about the Cobra Ferrari wars. I'd not heard Carroll speak before, he sounds like Tommy Lee Jones. I didn't quite get to the end , so don't spoil it for me .

Look forward to seeing more.

Simon
 

· Old Engineer
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nice track. (although it looks like the middle lane will cream 'em because of the two tight inside corners.)

there is also speckled trunk paint (assuming that they still make it- t'was de riguer in the 60's. LOL). i do like the idea of putting an interesting surface on, on a short section anyway.

speedy
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I know exactly what you are talking about. Trunk paint is still produced. I just wonder whether I can mist it enough so the splatter effect is to scale and I don't end up with large droplets. I'll get a can this weekend and experiment. Thanks
 

· Bob Chapman
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Colour me impressed. I really like the layout and use of space.
I believe the highest point on my track climbs through esses at abot 8 inches and when driven properly is a lot of fun . I also have a corner about the same radius as yours after the esses.
I have used strips of 1/8 hardboard all around the outside of the track and it seems fine at keeping cars on track and dosent damage the cars on an average shunt. I believe you are moving in a great direction and the dimensions are good too. Here is a pic of my similar climb through the esses and curve at the top.
During construction phase

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Wow. I'm envious of the space. Did you use open bench work to support all of this? The 1/8" hardboard looks good and flexes well around the curves. Mine will be squared against the back wall, as you can see, but follow the track on front and sides, with the exception of the driver station locations. I've read of individuals using 1/4 MDF, but in looking at your track, I'll opt for the hardboard. Looks like you went with the silvered copper tape? I bought a few roles hoping it blends better with the grey track.

Any chance you could post a photo of your pit area?
 

· Bob Chapman
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Hope these are better than the last one.
The pits are all Magnetic Racing and the populace is a variety of hand painted and prepainted. The cars are from a Classic F1 proxy event.
Now no more from me lets see Suzuka develop thats what this post is really about.
Cheers
Bob

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· Greg Gaub
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Bob, is the solder I see in the slots for your dead strip just the wires being soldered there, or are the leading and trailing edges of the tape broken from wear and time and needed to be soldered to restore the connection to the electronics?
 

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@Chappy, Again, spectacular. My plan is for something less ambitious. I've collected a number of old MRRC pits and a Revell Monogram control tower and grandstands (bleachers, actually). Interesting mix of cars, too. I'm trying to concentrate on USRRC cars, particularly the Specials when I can find them, but do include '50s and late '60s era Le Mans racers. They are hard to resist. These references are my guides.

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@Albion, you've no idea how long I debated reversing the overpass. The straight running under the esses makes far more sense, minimizes the blind spot and chances of shunts. The original design had my current configuration, but a club in Austin built it the other way. However, remaining true(ish) to the original and esthetics won out. I like the higher elevations in the rear and they fit nicely with the window. I could have flipped it, but also want a view of the pits. With this configuration they are elevated and prominent. So, some compromises.
 

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