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Talbot T26, Le Mans 1953

6031 Views 24 Replies 18 Participants Last post by  David Lawson
Tire Car Wheel Vehicle Land vehicle

This is part of my ongoing quest to reduce the Coides Unbuilt Body Shells Mountain. As many of you know, George Turner (GT Models) bodies are among the best out there so this isn't much of a scratchbuild! The one major modification was fitting it with lights and I'll concentrate on this because I did it using a new and cheap way (at least to me).

The LED lights that I used are available on Ebay (search for L1218WM). Typical prices are around £8 for 20 lights, or £1.60 per car and you can get brilliant white or 'warm' white for the fronts and red for the rears. Obviously, for a 50's car I chose warm white. All the lights have red and black wires and are set up for 12V so it's dead easy to connect them up. The one dodgy aspect is that they have a small resistor soldered in series so they are rather long and rigid but they can be bent to fit the available space with a bit of care.

After drilling out holes in the body for the lights I glued the LEDs in place from the inside with a rapid epoxy (Araldite), holding them in place with BluTak while the glue set. I then connected them all up in parallel to a long lead running from the motor (it needs to be long to allow the body to be easily removed from the chassis) and superglued all the wires flush with the interior of the shell.

Photograph Product Automotive lighting Eyewear Material property

I then filled in the exterior spaces with the same epoxy. For the rear lights I just added enough glue to form a smooth convex exterior, let it set, then painted it with a transparent red paint at the end of the build. For the front I prepared headlight lenses by hunting around the Coides Spares Bits Box till I found some scavenged headlight lenses that were close enough then fiddled around with them until they fitted perfectly and were actually transparent across the whole lens. They were pressed into the glue, mopping up the excess that squirted out the sides. Both these approaches worked out very well. Then it went to the spray booth. I made sure that the primer completely covered all the interior and exterior space around the lights to avoid that unfortunate 'glowing body' effect that most commercial lighted cars have.

Here's the final outcome:

Tire Vehicle Car Wheel Hood

Vehicle Hood Car Automotive design Asphalt

. . . and a couple of mood shots below. The rear shot above is a bit washed out - actually, the rear lights are nice and red like the photo below.

Automotive parking light Car Photograph Vehicle Hood

Tire Car Wheel Vehicle Hood

This is the GTM resin chassis that comes with the kit - neat and effective.

Bumper Gas Gadget Machine Office equipment

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Loving it
Looks terrific. Great job and very 'real' looking. Love the first pic.
WTF!!! That 3/4 shot of the model for a moment fooled looked so real.

Excellent skills as usual!
That looks really great, Andy.

excellent build and photographs
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That's a fantastic build.
Nice realization and really interesting way for lightening. Well done.

How did you mask the lense if you fixed them first and then sprayed the body?

Aslo, how did you mop (with what) the epoxy excess ?

Thx JM
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Thanks to all - it was one of those rare builds that just went right pretty much all the way through.

Pike, I masked the lights before spraying by sticking small blobs of BluTak into the spaces. Once fitted these could be edited using a scalpel and a tiny screwdriver to push the stuff into exactly the right place.The mopping tool was toilet tissue.

As simple as that!

Many thanks for this swift feedback Andy

Wow, fantastic build and a beatiful finish. Very impressive.

Great tip for the led ligts. I see you don't use a capacitor?

Hi Andy,

perfect executed. I like your finish very much. Slot cars like yours look fantastic with head and rear lighting. -wonderful -

I would prefer separating body from chassis. It`s a little bit more investment in work for mounting led basic constructions for front and rear

( and a electronic modul/capacitor for enduring lights ) but maintenance jobs are much more simple to handle...........

vbr, claus
Thanks again - I'd appreciate your advice on connectors, Claus, so I can sepate the body from the chassis. Also, is there a cheap and simple capacitor circuit available? The only ones I know (overdrive or Slot.It) cost £10 or more per car.

Great looking car Andy
Lovely build Andy and some great shots of the finished car.

What paint did you use for the main body colour please?


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