Hi RichD that is a great way to check everything out from cars to track conditions. when i do my builds i first start with what type of racing it will be for. then i do the motor first and what ohms would be needed to live a long race. but still being fast with all lap times. after armature is done i always check ohms on each pole and check the run out on the comm. and balance armature . then build the car. i try to use all the vintage aurora speed parts and tuff one parts when i can. like i was saying the aurora parts are crazy pricing on them now. so yes i do have to go with after market parts. i will say this all the aurora builds with the speed parts come out the very best. i never chop or hack up any body new or old . always run stock body. i always check all my builds with volt/ohm/ amp meters. also track and all transformers the same way.. i am a home racer and enjoy building and racing . i just became a club member a few days ago. this is a great group of people that still enjoy this great hobby. everyone enjoys what they build /race and share there thoughts on what they do and build i do like some of the tyco/pro HP7 and the 440 and the 440x2 cars, when i have extra time i also enjoy 1/32 scale racing vintage with the 16d can motors and the 1/24 scale with 36d motors, and do the builds the same way,Back when I was trying to determine how many amps the cars were using as they were circulating around the track the method that I used was to point a video camera at the power supply digital display and record the changing readings. The two sets of results that I posted earlier were done that way. Now I have a VRP dynamometer connected to a regulated power supply with volt and amp displays that read to three decimal places. I put the car with the 8.4 ohm double wind armature on the dyno and read 0.4 ohms at 18.5 volts. That confirms that the on track readings are good when the car reaches top speed. For cars with a significant amount of magnetic downforce the VRP device can be adjusted to simulate the on track conditions, but that would not apply to the car with the pancake armature because that has no magnetic downforce to speak of.