SlotForum banner
41 - 60 of 165 Posts

·
Circuit Owner
Joined
·
5,913 Posts
Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Hi Mr Flippant,

Funny you should say that about the squeeze - that's exactly what Snurfen and I decided would be a good idea. I haven't got single pit lanes on order - I actually have a couple of half straights with starting lines coming for the starting grid - that will allow me to free up a full length straight. This will, in turn, allow me to make the main pit lane another half straight long and extend the spare pit lane another full straight longer than in the photos.

Great minds and all that.

I am going to rout channels for the wiring - but ON TOP of the boards. NO I'm not mad! Snurfen has access to a few acres of sign board which is 1mm shallower than Scalextric track - this will be cut to shape to fill in wherever the track isn't. By securing it with velcro sticky dots and some packing it will be raised to exactly track level allowing for plenty of sliding space. This will also cover up all the routed wiring channels. Thus the bottom of the boards remain completely flat and the wiring is completely protected.

What to do about the power joints across the boards??? Well - these will be on top of the boards but will be cunningly hidden by static vehicles with hollowed-out chassis, a hut or two and maybe a pile of tyres.

A cunning plan that will save my back!
 

·
Circuit Owner
Joined
·
5,913 Posts
Discussion Starter · #42 ·
By the way - the track does look a little small for the boards - this is because the boards needed to be cut to a size that fits in the back of my car!

Following the photos we marked out the cutting lines and my father-in-law and I cut them to size.

Total elapsed time from erecting the tables, putting the boards on top, laying the track, drinking tea, modifying the track, testing the track with 5 simultaneous drivers for about 30 minutes, marking the boards, deciding on cut lines, taking down the track and cutting the boards ...... 3 hours and 15 minutes.

Don't tell my boss I can work that fast!!!
 

·
Circuit Owner
Joined
·
5,913 Posts
MAJOR UPDATE 2

Last Tuesday Snurfen came over. I had just finished the board tongue connections and had already drawn around the track that we had finalised on the weekend. We spent some time sorting out where the power taps needed to go. Snurfen was also able to help me update my APB firmware, wrestle with my laptop and get SSDC working on it and install all the missing drivers that we were told were unlikely to be needed but definitely were! Thanks buddy - would have probably thrown Laptop and APB out of the window if you wren't there!

I managed to get some time on the Amman Valley Raceway build this weekend and this is what I did.

But before I launch into that.... here's a little recap.

The Amman Valley Raceway is being constructed as a portable layout. Portable in that it can be loaded into the back of a Mondeo Estate, be handled, erected and run by one person (me). The raceway needs to be three things:
1) A track for hire - to earn its keep and keep me in slot car vouchers
2) My fun track that I can set up quickly in my garage but then take down quickly so we can use the space for other things (the garage will be converted to a playspace/gym/office when funds allow
3) One of several tracks within a loose club based in West Wales that we are hoping to get started early next year.

So far the plans have been drawn, the boards designed, made, track test laid and the boards cut to size. The physical build started 10 days ago. This is the further progress made this weekend...

This is how the boards fit together (the clips can be seen in later photos)


The boards were duly assembled and the track re-laid so I could mark the boards for track position, clip position and figure out where the power taps need to go.


Of course with the track set up and friends calling round - we had to have a go! First one to drop a car on the floor has to buy the drinks!!!


Fun over, track cleaned, oiled and put away. Time for different fun. Cutting a test piece of plastic poster board which will hopefully act as track borders and take holes to mount barriers, advertising hoardings etc. It worked quite well. This is the sweeping R4 bend. The board is 1.5mm thinner than Scalextric Sport track but as I will be mounting it with Velco sticky dots this will bring it up flush with the track -happy days! Why Velcro fastening? Well the wiring will be ON TOP of the boards not underneath. This saves my back, keeps the boards smooth to slide easily on to the table tops and protects the wiring. Read on...


Current Scalextric barriers, large pop rivets and a drill bit to make holes up inside the three long legs - perfect way to mount barriers. PLUS I can make two sets of holes - close to the track on tight turns to reduce deslots when kids are racing and further away to give tons of power sliding space for the more experienced racers.


Here I am marking out the channels to be routed for power taps - within a board and across boards - AND the separate 12v lighting circuit for the night racing option!!!


Here's the before on a cross-board power tap...


... and here's the after. The eight routed circles are for the power taps up onto the track, the side channels are to route the wires so the power tap can be joined by the side of the track and concealed by either a building (small hut) or trackside vehicle (with chassis hollowed out so it sits on the connector block).


Here are a couple more photos of the routed channels



Below you can see a cross-board power tap to the top of the picture. Below it is the track lighting circuit channel which will also be connected using the same connectors (but colour coded to stop me connecting up the wrong ones).


So it's coming along quite nicely now. Next job is to seal the MDF either with MDF sealer or maybe with diluted PVA - I have a tame chippie to consult tomorrow to make up my mind. After that I can screw in the case latches, lay the wiring, connect up the power taps and start permanently laying track.
 

·
Circuit Owner
Joined
·
5,913 Posts
Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Thanks Michael.

It's a good question. There are loads of answers (excuses?!?)

I'm not sure I would be happy routing an 8mm slot into 12mm MDF and then hauling it in and out of the back of my car on a regular basis. I am sure the stress and strain on the MDF would lead to a serious breakage. Thicker than 12mm would make the boards too heavy. I guess I could mirror the track path underneath with 5mm MDF glued and screwed and that would strengthen the board.

If I did rout the track then I would have to channel the cabling underneath and that would expose the wiring to catching as I slide the boards onto the tables.

My routing freehand is good enough for wiring channels but no way good enough for a racing slot. I am sure I could work out how to fix guides to allow me to route smoothly but I believe this would take longer than laying conventional track.

I am not yet confident enough to embed the lane changers either whole or in component form.

This is my first track and my plan for hiring it out for parties is that it will generate funds to put back into my slot cars. By getting this to work quickly I can get plenty of funds to build a larger routed track. It is my intention to rout my next track once I have learned from this one - what works, what causes problems (layout-wise). I would eventually like to build a routed track in modular form so I can take 3, 4, 5 or 6 large boards, and routing would give me total control over the slot positioning to allow me to have a track that is pure racetrack, pure rally track or a challenging combo. I also need to figure out a lightweight alternative to MDF.

Anyway - it's mainly a confidence thing I think. Once the Amman Valley Raceway is up and running successfully then I can take my time and build something special with fast sweeping curves and evil variable radii wiggly bits!
 

·
WRP World Champ 2015/2016
Joined
·
4,284 Posts
You've had a productive weekend, well done mate


I, on the other hand, spent 18 hours in work yesterday (albeit 2 of them watching a half French Irishman who lives in France diddle us out of a place in the RWC final) but managed to get two boards done on my rebuild today. I ought to start a thread on that really. Got lots of pics, so may well do.

Glad the poster board worked, we'll sort the rest out this week. Got a fairly good stock in last week, so lets get yours finished and I'll worry about mine after yours is done.

Are those really crop circles in your photos above? I'm sure you could hide a little green man somewhere on the final build.

Keep it up, and keep the posts coming in. Hwyl!
 

·
Circuit Owner
Joined
·
5,913 Posts
Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Transit Class !!!

I am running a few classes on the Amman Valley Raceway, one of which is Ford Transits.

I have 7 DPR Transits (6 and a spare/demo vehicle).

I have made printable vinyl decals for them and will seal these with gloss clear acrylic.

Here is the first.....







I reckon this will have to be the spare/demo vehicle because the temptation for other drivers to smash it off the track onto the floor will probably be too great !!!

Now I just need to think of a suitably witty number plate to finish it off. Suggestions welcomed!
 

·
Circuit Owner
Joined
·
5,913 Posts
Discussion Starter · #51 ·
QUOTE (Ember @ 17 Oct 2011, 04:34) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>URNIKD

How many letters and numbers to a British rego plate?

Hi Ember - the current format is AA99AAA. Old formats were A999AAA and before that AAA999A.

QUOTE (alaskaracer1 @ 17 Oct 2011, 05:01) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Where did you find the body and what chassis is under it? It would be great to see the process of transforming it?

Hi Alaskaracer1 - if you PM me your email address I can send you a PDF of the conversion process.
 

·
One petunia in a field of onions
Joined
·
6,455 Posts
QUOTE (Mr Modifier @ 17 Oct 2011, 17:44) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi Ember - the current format is AA99AAA. Old formats were A999AAA and before that AAA999A.
Darn. Ours are much easier to make 'wally' (or another word starting with 'w' and rhyming with anchor) plates from because personalised plates are allowed up to 6 letters.

Was also thinking along the lines of "W8ING4U"
 

·
Circuit Owner
Joined
·
5,913 Posts
Discussion Starter · #53 ·
I guess W4NKR or W4NKA would work! Our Driver and Venhicle Licensing Agency wouldn't allow it because they have no sense of humour.

Problem is that other peoples' kids will be racing this van so I need to be a bit PC (!) to avoid awkward questions.

PC99CAM would work. P19CAM is probably the best (read as PIgCAM).

Thanks Ember - you sparked some good numberplates!!!
 

·
WRP World Champ 2015/2016
Joined
·
4,284 Posts
SP70NKD (SP70 is the endorsement code you get on your licence for breaking the motorway speed limit, Embs).

CH 33 SSE

Nothing else would pass the mods ;o)
 

·
Circuit Owner
Joined
·
5,913 Posts
Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Hi everyone!


Blinkin' 'eck! So many good ones I think I have to have about a dozen of these vans.

Now there's a thought - the car park in the infield full of parked-up speed camera vans, all with your wonderful plates. Maybe with a couple of likely looking characters stacking some barrels labelled "gunpowder" up against them and another one laying a trail of black powder to a safe vantage point behind a grassy knoll. I think that would get a universally positive reaction from everybody except maybe the odd traffic cop


I think I had better post about the Amman Valley track build again - we are going a bit away from the topic - but it has been fun - thanks guys and gals!!!

Keep an eye out for the car park scene - it's a real possibility
 

·
Circuit Owner
Joined
·
5,913 Posts
Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Progress report

Hello, I have been in the garage today, sanding the rough edges after routing the wiring channels. I have also been working out the placement for the hand controllers and realised there's a bit more routing to be done


I have cone up with a neat idea for the controller connections. I bought 2.5mm mono audio sockets to plug the hand controllers into and will wire 2.5mm jacks to the sockets terminated in the APB. There is always a risk - especially with novice users, of them ripping the controller out of the socket as they rush to re-slot a car just out of reach of the controller cable. I have some silicone rubber hose which is 12mm external diameter and 6mm internal diameter - just big enough to fit the 2.5mm socket into. So I am going to fix about 100mm of this hose at each controller station with the socket at the loose end. If a controller is pulled to the full extent of its cable the hose will bend and allow a straight pull (rather than an angled pull) which will result in the controller jack coming cleanly out of the socket without breaking the wire. I'm well chufed with that idea - much better than regularly repairing hand controllers!

As an aside I also made my first attempt at making silicone moulds today - will start another thread about that in Scratch Building.
 
41 - 60 of 165 Posts
Top