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Greg Gaub
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Interesting.
So, if one were to have their equipment pass PAT testing today, but then someone were injured by a failure of that equipment tomorrow, would the PAT test results absolve them of liability? If not, then why bother?
 

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QUOTE (MrFlippant @ 5 Mar 2012, 20:56) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Interesting.
So, if one were to have their equipment pass PAT testing today, but then someone were injured by a failure of that equipment tomorrow, would the PAT test results absolve them of liability? If not, then why bother?

As it shows that you have tried to ensure the equipment is safe and that at the time of testing the equipment was safe. If you did not have the testing was done you would have no proof at all that it was ever safe so it's best to make sure everything is PAT tested at least once a year, and more often if it's something that gets moved a lot.
 

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Whilst you would not be absolved your insurance would find it difficult to "walk away"

In terms of frequency of PAT testing I am referring to a "hire" business where the products are obviously out of you're business enviroment and unfortunately in todays world you have to cover your back

Colin
 

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Circuit Owner
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Discussion Starter · #125 ·
This hasn't been fully tested in a court of law in the UK as far as I can tell.

I can understand doing a safety check when hiring out equipment if the equipment is to be used by the hirer. I will be in attendance with the Amman Valley Raceway at all times and the only person touching the mains electricity side of the equipment. The users only get to touch the controllers (and possibly track).

The law states that you should test according to use, with regard to frequency and environment the equipment is being used in. The point of this is to stop people getting electrocuted rather than protect against equipment failure.

I have worked as an medical equipment engineer visiting hospitals across the UK. Many of them use an equipment "library" lending out life-preserving equipment to various operating theatres and high dependency wards. Every time an item of equipment is returned it is cleaned, inspected and PAT tested - but if you have a mains powered device that drives fluids into a human body you have to accept the risk needs to be very carefully managed. Mind you I found some hospitals where the kit hadn't been tested or upgraded or safety inspected for nearly ten years. I know the hospitals to avoid getting injured near!!!

For the type of hire I am doing I don't need a PAT test for any new equipment up until it has reached an age I specify. Recommendations range between 1 year and 3 years. I will probably go for an annual test because I can get all my kit tested locally for under £20.

There is no requirement in law. However the implication is that if you never test your kit and have never inspected it you will be held fully responsible for any damage caused. If you put in a reasonable test and inspection regime that is appropriate for the type of use and there is a problem it is more likely to be treated as an accident rather than an act of negligence.

It's all a bit flaky and I guess will not be firmed-up in law until somebody brings a test case.

From my point of view my public liability insurance and PAT testing will cost me under £150 per year in total. Well worth it to reduce the risk.
 

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Discussion Starter · #126 ·
QUOTE (TR7_Driver @ 5 Mar 2012, 20:05) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Love the paint job on the Nascars.

Thanks TR7 Driver.

I have to confess it's a cheat because I was short of time before I needed them.

All I did was soak the bodies in Bartoline Clean Spirit (bought it in Wilkinsons) which is a green alternative to white spirit. It lifts the tampo printing off completely after 24-48 hours of soaking and a single tub of it (just enough to cover a NASCAR) was good enough to remove the tampo from all 6 NASCARS and is still going strong. It only removed some of the tampo from a more modern Scalextric Porsche 997 - it removed the black but left the white!!!

Anyway, after washing the NASCAR bodies I printed the number decals and coloured panels onto printable vinyl, sprayed the vinyl with clear gloss acrylic from a rattle can, left it to dry then cut them out and stuck them to the cars. A quick and dirty solution but it works really well.

I have another 6 of these cars and when the weather warms up I will be spraying them to match the APB colours and decaling them properly with printable waterslide transfers.
 

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WRP World Champ 2015/2016
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PATS testing - we are advised by the company legal eagles to perform once before going into service, then an inspection at every opportunity to check for nicks, scuffs, tears to sheathing etc.

That shows "due care and dilligince" on my behalf when dishing out IT equipment to users. If it ever goes to court and I've taken these actions, I can't be held responsible for anyone elses lack of common sense - like the user who dropped almost a grands worth of laptop into the hotel bath. The mind boggles.

Will pick your brains regarding transfers and printable vinyl when you come over for Wednesday's racing - not had the best finish on my recent foray into waterslides!
 

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Greg Gaub
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I went back through the thread and wanted to watch the video, but it didn't work, and YouTube said the account was closed. Is that true? If so, where can the video be seen?
 

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Circuit Owner
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Discussion Starter · #129 ·
Hello,

That's odd - I haven't closed the account as far as I know. YouTube being a law unto themselves I guess.

I have now put the video on Photobucket and you can get to it by clicking this link
 

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Amman Valley Raceway - NIGHT RACING !!!

Those of you who have been following this thread from the start will know it has always been my intention to light the track.

These photos show the fruits of my labours.

The photos were ALL taken using the light from the track only - no room lighting, no flash and it was pitch dark outside.

The lamp standards are fitted into RCA phono sockets built into the base board. The standard themselves are RCA phono jacks with 6mm aluminium tube with a disposable razor handle on top. The superbright LEDs are hot glued inside the razor handle and the wires run down inside the tubing and are soldered into the jacks.









This is a Scalextric Start car - the endurance type. It has the same LEDs as the lamp standards fitted as headlights. The rears are rectangular for the running lights and a single 3mm flashing red light set between the running lights. There is also an additional LED set in the top of the car behind the cockpit - this one is red, the other 5 cars will have LEDs colour coded to the APB colours so it is easier for the drivers to identify their car in the dark.



The lights on the Start car are on ALL the time the car is on the track - so there are no dips in lighting when you come off the throttle.
This was achieved by creating a bridge rectifier circuit using 4 diodes. This sits between the braids and the lights. The digital chip is also wired across the braids.

And YES - looking at the photo below - the superbright headlights really do throw that much light!!!







I am chuffed with the end result. Just another 5 Start cars to light and chip and night racing is go go go go go!
 

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Mr Modifier, all I can say is: Brilliant!

That goes for the lights as well as the ideas.

Well done,

Cheers

Theo
 

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Circuit Owner
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Discussion Starter · #133 ·
Thanks Theo.

I can't wait to get my group of casual racers together to race 6 cars in the dark!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #135 ·
Hi JJJ,

No Millers yet.

There are 20 lamp standards on the track and 26 places to plug them in. I have enough stuff to make 4 more lamp standards which leaves 2 more positions which I think I will use either for Millers or for lit buildings.

I will probably go for lit buildings as I have a cunning alternative to the Millers - I have an old LCD photo frame that I am thinking of butchering to make into a trackside display - this way I can create whatever graphics are appropriate for the event and show them on the display. I also have a spare 7" Android tablet that I may use in the same way (minus the butchering bit) OR maybe mirror the PC leaderboard display on it.
 

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Yea, I forgot to mention, I liked the idea of the socket connection at the lamp bases. The photo frame is a good idea, I did one on my track and added gantry footings and it looks like a nice Jumbotron. I need to update it with track photos. Right now its loaded with pics of all the 1:1 race cars for which I have the slot version.
 

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Circuit Owner
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Thanks JJJ

In case you missed how I did the bases for the lights - here's the link to the post much earlier in this thread.

Lighting bases

What I like about this method is that you can swivel the lamp in any direction and you can attach anything that needs 12v (and doesn't draw too much current). One or two of the bases will have buildings sat over them with a jack plug to take power for the building lights.

I would love to see a photo of your Jumbotron - have you got a link or can you post a pic?
 

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No problem, hope you like it:



Thanks for the how-to link, and, as always, looking forward to your next track lighting project!
 

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Very Nice JJJ and vey cheap now as well

And GREAT Idear Mr M with the lights

I have a set of lights to go on our track and I might just have to do the same

where did you get the jack plugs etc ??? and how much

Michael
 

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Circuit Owner
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Hello Michael,

The sockets and jack plugs came from ebay. The jacks (on the lamp standards) cost 99p for 2. I think the sockets cost about 40p each.

I tried looking for the jacks yesterday on ebay but they are not currently listed but there are similar ones on offer - you might do better elsewhere. I like the metal plugs because I was able to solder them to the tube.

The tube is splayed at the base and fed up through the jack and jammed in as straight as possible. Then either drip in glue from underneath or drop in solder from above (I know you can't solder aluminium but it seemed to work where glue alone wasn't holding one or two lamps!!!)

The aluminium tube came from B&Q - a 1 metre length cost about £2.50 and is enough to make 5 lamps. It's the 6mm diameter tube.

The prewired 5mm superbright LEDs were also ebay and cost about 10p each. The wires were too short so I had to extend them with more wire and heatshrink (to avoid shorting on the tube).

Added bonus - the internal diameter of the tube is the same as the stem on some slot car guides - ideal if you are a scratch builder. I used it on an XC90 on an HRS chassis to lower the slot.it guide (massive ground clearance on a Chelsea tractor).

Richard
 
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