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WRP World Champ 2015/2016
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Good effort Rich - fancy bringing it up next Wednesday for the West Mor idiots to try it out? (Actually, do we really want to be in a darkened room with that crowd of hooligans?). We could do half the event on Amman in the morning room, and half on West Mor. And possibly the rally stage too?

The ID led on the back of the LMP is very effective. It sounded good, but looks even better than I imagined. Well done, and no skin was harmed during the lighting of these cars, I read.
 

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Discussion Starter · #142 ·
Hi Snurfen,

If by next Wednesday you mean May 2nd then yes it's possible - I won't have all 6 LMPs finished by tomorrow.

PM sent.

Does anybody want to see how the LMPs are chipped and lit? I will be doing the last 3 over the next couple of evenings and could take photos for a separate thread if anybody wants to know


Richard
 

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Regarding your RCA connector lights...
QUOTE (Mr Modifier @ 23 Apr 2012, 11:22) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>What I like about this method is that you can swivel the lamp in any direction and you can attach anything that needs 12v (and doesn't draw too much current). One or two of the bases will have buildings sat over them with a jack plug to take power for the building lights.
I was curious if you can show us the under table wiring. Is is just a 2 wire cable connecting the differing plug points, I think it is called a "wiring loom" looping under to connect all the lights et al in parallel and connected to a single 12v DC source?

This seems the way to go with accessories like lights. And requires some planning to wire it effectively and reduce the number of holes in the track table!

Cheers!
 

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QUOTE (JJJ @ 23 Apr 2012, 20:05) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>No problem, hope you like it:



Thanks for the how-to link, and, as always, looking forward to your next track lighting project!

Sorry to jack the thread.

I had the same idea of using a photo frame which I bought off eBay for a nice £2, how did you make the gantry footings?

Love the lighting OP, another idea which has blown mine out of the water!!
 

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Well I can answer, but it won't help you. This is a case of using what you can find around the house. I actually stole 4 pieces of Lego from my sons Lego pile that were perfect for this (over a year now and he hasn't noticed, lol). I dremeled them a bit to fit the frame and mounted them on a plexiglass base.
 

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Discussion Starter · #147 ·
QUOTE (sealevel @ 28 Apr 2012, 03:40) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Regarding your RCA connector lights...

I was curious if you can show us the under table wiring. Is is just a 2 wire cable connecting the differing plug points, I think it is called a "wiring loom" looping under to connect all the lights et al in parallel and connected to a single 12v DC source?

This seems the way to go with accessories like lights. And requires some planning to wire it effectively and reduce the number of holes in the track table!

Cheers!


Hi Sealevel,

There are no holes on my tables!!! The underneath of my boards are completely smooth.

Here's how I did it.

Clickme

Imaging the wiring for the lights like a tall ladder. The left upright is connected to the the negative at the bottom and the right upright is connected to positive at the bottom. Each "rung" is an LED and resistor with the correct rating for 12v. You can connect as many "rungs" as you like between the two uprights providing the total load does not exceed the capability of the power supply.

In practise this means that I ran an orange wire to the outer sleeve terminal on each socket and "daisy chained" the wire from that socket to the next - connecting the orange wire to the outer sleeve terminal each time. The I did the same with the blue wire but with the inner core terminal instead.

LEDs consume such little power that I could use a very thin wire and string 26 sockets together - each of which will power a 5mm superbright LED comfortably - about 20 in lamp standards and the rest in buildings. The whole lot is powered by a 12v transformer which is rated up to 1 amp.
 

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Thanks Mr. Modifier.
I missed the point earlier about running the wires on top of the table.

As I see it, you have 2 layers of ply on the "table".... the bottom one is the thickness of the wires and the top one the thickness of your "disk" to which the plug is mounted. Combined they are the thickness of the track, right?

Does this add much weight to the table? I am hoisting mine to the ceiling so weight is every thing at the moment. But I do like the two layer approach... just need to find a lighter material.

Thanks again.... I understood the ladder rungs analogy... parallel circuits .... alternate one could have a "spine" connecting to terminal barriers and then connect the lights to the same terminals on the barriers....just a different approach.

Thanks for sharing.

@falkster: did you say you got an LCD photo frame for GBP2 on eBay? What size frame? Most of the 7 inch ones cost much more than that, from what I have seen!

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #149 ·
Hi Sealevel,

Yes - 2 layers of ply - both 4mm. BUT the top layer is 100% coverage because it is the infield after all - the bottom layer is in strategic places to support the top layer and the light mounting disks. All in all the supporting layer probably only accounts for 10-15% coverage - the top layer is not load bearing.

The Amman Valley Raceway is in 6 pieces - all about 1.1 meters square. I transport the entire raceway in the back of my car - I put it up and take it down on my own.

I haven't weighed each board bit I would say the heaviest - 12mm MDF, 2 layers of 4mm ply and the Scalextric track plus APB doesn't feel more than about 15 kilos.

If you want to cut down on weight you should either consider poster board (the plastic/foam composite stuff they make display boards from) OR rout your track.

My next portable track will be routed - and I'm seriously considering flying in the face of convention and not routing in MDF!
 

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QUOTE (sealevel @ 28 Apr 2012, 21:51) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>@falkster: did you say you got an LCD photo frame for GBP2 on eBay? What size frame? Most of the 7 inch ones cost much more than that, from what I have seen!

Cheers!


Yeah, it's 7 inch. I just stumbled on it when a friend gave me the idea - literally within 2 mins of it ending, it's a proper Kodak one too.
I was thinking of either making a video to play so it looks like a large screen TV or stills of the cars around the track or just advertising logos.
Great idea though but it's all how it's fixed to the base, the painted Lego looks awesome.

Item number 280868118452

Item number 270961834348

Item number 130685008772
 

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Discussion Starter · #151 ·
At last the Amman Valley Raceway is complete!

As a recap, the penultimate task was track lighting...




And now - the cars to race in the dark...












 

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Thanks Mr. M for the info and for the updates! The track looks terrific! And the clever way you labelled the Start LMPs to reflect your track! Did you use printable decals or just peal and stick label paper?

Thanks, also, Falkster, on the leads for photo frames. I am back on the hunt!.... Can these frames accept output from a PC? I was thinking of the SSDC output. Although just outputting slides is also cool!

Cheers!
 

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Thanks Sealevel,

The decals are printable vinyl. This is printed on an inkjet printer then sealed with a couple of coats of clear acrylic to stop the ink getting smudged by handling.

The vinyl stretches slightly (even with the clear acrylic coating) which is great for moulding it to gentle contours.

The vinyl also peels off fairly easily and in one piece with no residue which is really handy because for the commercial applications I am anticipating each event wanting custom logos/branding etc. Paper stickers would be cheaper but a nightmare to remove cleanly.

For the club I am thinking of acquiring another set of the Start LMPs which will get the LED treatment but only after I have sprayed the bodies with the APB colours. Although they look like 1 piece mouldings for some bizarre reason the black "glass" is removable. It would have been easier and cheaper for Scalextric to make it as a single piece but it will make my life easier! We can then apply "proper" water slide decals and clear coat them for better job.

The vinyl stickers are a good solution for the commercial aspect (quick and easy and not too expensive an option for customers who want a one-off event) but not something I would be happy with for my personal use - they are just too thick.

Why didn't I spray these cars? I think repeated application and removal of the vinyl stickers would have pulled the paint off quite quickly - these Start cars are mainly coloured plastic where I stick the vinyl except the blue which is tampo'd but should still resist the sticker treatment better than paint. In the dark with track and car lighting you can't see the colours that well which is why I put identifier LEDs on the cars.
 

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Yes, indeed! Fantastic!
Thanks again for sharing!


Cheers!
 

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A truly amazing and inspiring build.

I'm a bit concerned about this PAT thing, though. This country has changed so much while I've been abroad. The nanny state really is all it's made out to be. I'm still planning a small scale build to take along to fundraising events. I have no plans to rent the track out, it's just something I like to do for fun that benefits a worthy cause. Now I'm worried that some idiot will come along, trip over a cable, and then sue me. And if not that, then some lowly government official drunk on his own tiny amount of power will come by and slap a fine on me for not having some obscure piece of paper. Makes you wonder if it's really worth the effort sometimes. Sorry to be in such a dour mood, but having never heard of PAT testing before, it's come as a bit of an unwelcome surprise.
 

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Discussion Starter · #158 ·
Unfortunately PAT testing has been around for decades and decades.

If you are doing a charity event you could always make sure whoever is organising it has public liability insurance (that covers you against the tripping over a wire thing). PAT testing has come down in price - it can be as little as £2 per item. All you have to have tested is your mains cables and transformers. Anything after the transformers is low voltage and does not have to be PAT tested. You can decide frequency, so if your kit is new you could choose a 3 year regime meaning you only need to PAT test every 3 years and can start 3 years after whe you bought the kit new. As your activities are charitable you may be able to find an electrician who would be happy to do the testing for free as his contribution.

I don't think it is unreasonable to take expenses from your takings - if they are necessary. I have heard of (but not yet used) of an insurance specialist who is insuring a friend of mine who takes three train layouts to events. The insurance covers public liability (£10m) and theft of equipment from vehicles including during when they are left open to facilitate loading and unloading. The cost for the year? Under £50. I think the broker is called Magnet Insurance or something similar and he specialises in the train/model making industry and advertises regularly in train magazines.
 

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The Amman Valley Raceway is now being used regularly as a club track for the Pantyffynnon Slot Car Club (free of charge) and is now earning it's way by occasional outings on hire at promotional events.



Here it is, set up at a University Freshers Week being used to draw crowds in to the big tent. It worked; with observers reporting that the overwhelming majority of students entering the tent made straight for the Raceway and then made their way around the other stands after having a go at racing.

Edit: and YES that is a full grid of Transits!
 
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