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Based loosely on the fact that the Indy race track has the F1 circuit on the inside, this is my design:

THE BRICK INCH:


aka Jerseyanapolis

It is to be routed SSD, the final location of the lane changers has not been set yet, but I am sure it is going to take weeks to get to that stage!

I have watched Luff's video, browsed numerous web pages (will list the useful ones one day!), got loads of inspiration from here, found a space to put the track (in the garage alongside the car!), persuaded the wife (hardest bit) and I am proud to announce that no longer am I just talking about it - WORK HAS COMMENCED!!!

2 2m x 1.22m sheets of Ply and 2 sheets of MDF have arrived, along with various other bits that I think I need, a quick trip to the DIY shop for drill bits etc, and after two hours hard labour...



This is to be the base for the track - 4m x 1.2m of very heavy wood.

Ever had one of those moments when you step back and think 'oh my god, what have I started?'!!!

The base is much heavier than I imagined and I may have to rethink the way I am going to attach it to the wall. I am planning on hinging it so it can be folded up and away, but I think it may need more reinforcement...?

Will be trying at the weekend, will keep posting how I get on and the rest of the build.

Aaron
 

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Peter Christie
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the base doesn't need to be so well constructed, try to lose the chip board...thats heavy, use light weight battons for reinforcement under the mdf, otherwise you are right..you will not be able to lift it.
 

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The MDF will be cut to the shape of the track to incorporate banked corners and a bit of elevation change, but at the end of the day scenery will cover over everything.

You could be right, I was following Luff's video here, maybe a bit too closely? I may have enough battening anyway to make the frame as I allowed some for strengthening if need be.

Aaron
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Bugger bugger bugger bugger bugger.
That was the 1st thing I did and now I have to undo it!!! That wood was not as cheap as I hoped either.

Ah well, better to find out now than when it falls off the wall onto the car!

Aaron
 

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Afterburned

Firstly an apology to you. You PM'd me many weeks ago asking for some pictures of my garage track which is on a board the same size as yours. I still have not managed to do that as yet.


Your layout looks great. Some long straights with lane changing is a must


The construction of your base looks similar to mine but mine is permanantly attached to 2 walls also with legs. It was built high enough to store all the bikes etc and needed to have myself stand on it to reach the eaves which are also used for storage.

Will be well interested on how you are going to hinge it as i may look into going that route myself someday.

Best of luck

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Attempt #2 at the base...

I have used 4" (9.5cm) by 1" (2.5cm) strips of wood to make up the outside with 2" by 1" on the inside. This is so that I still get the effect of the track being enclosed and protected.


you can see the effect of the two sizes of wood clearly in the middle where I had to join the larger pieces together:


Bit of strength on the corners (taken from the 2" by 2" I have for the legs):


I am considering a few battens lengthways, but as it is so slim I may get away without, I will see what it is like once hung on the wall.


Feeling more confident now, thanks guys, I think the correct choice was made to change before it was too late


Aaron

EMC - no worries, but when you get photos I'm sure everyone will want a look not just me, make sure you post them up!
 

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Good morning (5am here) Afterburned,

Your revised l/c placements on the oval look good! Glad to see your track is making progress. My next track is still in the planning stages and I'm still on the fence between SSD and N-digi. Looking foward to your progress report tonight!

Gooday, Eh!

Gord
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Bit later than promised as I did not get as far as I wanted last night!
Here are the xmas updates (not a huge amount as xmas is a family thing...)

Attaching the base to the wall:
I took a length of 2x4cm wood and drilled the holes, marked and drilled the wall, then made sure it all fitted by securely attaching it to the wall. Then took it off again! (no pics of that 'cos a bit of wood on a wall is not really inspiring!)

Then I attached that bit of wood to the frame with some hinges (you can see the holes where the wood was attached to the wall):




Then put the wall strip back on the wall! This was made much easier by the fact I had put it on once already!


Remember my first attempt at making a base? Well I am glad you guys sorted me out, as this new one can be held with one hand!


And as designed I can have the track out whilst the car is in the garage (on temporary legs at the moment):


BUT ONLY JUST!!!!!!


I have been concentrating on drawing out the track the last few days, but have not got it finished, but will post a pic or two of the process when I get the chance.
Happy new year to all!


Aaron
 

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Afterburned

progress progress


1 thing i found to be a of a great advantage in the garage was a new lick of paint cuts down the dust greatly. It seems that at the point you are now would be a good time unlike myself where i had to remove the track and paint afterwards



Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Another update (bit slow going this, I don't get much time spare to work on it, I have not even run my 3 new A1 cars yet 'cos I don't want to waste time assembling a plastic track when I can be working on this!!)

Here is how I draw and route the curves:

1 - Get a long straight bit of plastic - in my case the cover from some plastic trunking. Drill a 'main' hole to work from (in this case 3mm the same as the router bit, and 10cm from the end to make for easy measuring of the other holes), then work out your radii. Drill smaller holes to mark the radii and you end up with something like this:



2 - To draw out the curves put a nail or panel pin (smallest you can) through the hole of the correct radius in the centre of your turn:



Then put a pencil through the main hole, and draw your turn:



This next pic is not very clear but you can see some of the turns I have drawn. The centres of the turns were all worked out on paper first, and measured exactly. Then altered to suit the real thing, as you can't get as accurate on paper (the width of the pencil line can be 1-2 cm in real life)!



3 - Attach the plastic to the router and adjust the bit to the correct depth. On my router there is space for a couple of screws to attach the dust remover, I just drilled holes in the plastic to use the same screws to hold the plastic rod on! Added benefit that some of the dust got sucked out by the vacuum.



I had to make small notches in the plastic to cope with dust removal though, I am not sure how well it would have worked otherwise, maybe would have had to expand the main hole to allow dust through.

4 - Use the nail as before and gently make the turn...



With the router secured in this way it did not matter which way the router went, although one way felt better than the other so I went with it!

Next update will be the straights!!!


EMC - no time for painting, It's all I can do to keep working on the track! Next week the car is due for some repairs so the garage will be empty, I may get a bit more time then and will see if I can give it a quick coat. Doubtful, but possible!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hmm, well, no painting but a bit more progress on the track...

The straights were routed by putting the router in the end of the curve slot, then nailing a long bit of straight wood in position...



The distance to the drawn line was measured, then the bit of wood was placed the same distance away from the line the other end, and another nail put in to keep the wood straight. The router was just run along the length of the wood!

The result:




Getting there!!

One last thing - you know the old saying 'measure twice cut once'... Well how about 'measure once and cut all the way through the wood with the router bit'???



More soon
 

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Your track is looking good. I've only made one small (1800 x 900, 8m long) rally track so far. You've inspired me to make my next (much larger) track a digital one.

How do the lane changers work with a routed track?

Matt
 

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caught up on your progress.

The routing looks good


maybe ignore the cut right through


I am looking forward to the next instalment.

Who knows if i can get good enough without mags maybe might even try a routed track myself.

Am interested to see how long the mdf flippers would last. Would be good to see if anyone has done the same with the scaley ones as it seems such a waste as you allready have them

By the way still have not got around to any photos and have changed the track again
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Quick update - the track so far has been jigsawed out and (for now) laid in the frame to see how it will look.

Sorry for the quality of the pics but you get the idea!





The cut through means that the whole banked turn is not level with itself, I will look at adding some strengthening bit of.... something....

Now for filling in the mistakes, joining the tracks, creating the last bit for the inside track....


EMC - I intend to use magnetic paint so will eventually post how I get on!
 
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