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Which is beter the FLY GT 40 or the SCALEXTRIC Gt 40

I think the Scalextric GT 40 is beter because it looks beter and the front wheels fit under the arches properly not like the FLY GT40
 

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This could be interesting!
I have only the Scalextrics and will not buy any Fly versions, so I have no comparison problems
Now I will sit and watch . . .
 

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I have the #10 and #11 Flys...Scalextric #3, #6 x2 and #9 X2 (extras given to me by someone getting out of the hobby).

Body detail is best from Fly but Scaley is not bad either. The Scalextrics, however...will outrun and outhandle the Fly's right out of the box...even after you have worked on the Fly's.

Like i said...the Fly's are the best detailed. I can say this because of the R & D work I did on the 1/12th scale GT-40's that are produced by GMP in Atlanta Ga here in the states.

Here are 2 of the ones I worked on...the black #2 is a preproduction prototype...not a production model. That is why this has the chromed wheels on it rather than the Gold wheels. The production model was correct. The red one is a production model. Both are shown next to an AutoArt Subaru slot car for size comparison.

 

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That black GT40 is farther from the truth than either the scaly or the fly!

Look at pics of a real GT40 and you will not see any hump over the front wheels. The fly is correct in this regard, the scaly has a little bit of "creativity" here.

It looks like that one was grossly exaggerated to fit those front tires.

Ouch, I just call it as I see it!
 

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QUOTE The Scalextrics, however...will outrun and outhandle the Fly's right out of the box...even after you have worked on the Fly's.

OK, that what I am after. Don't care about detail. Certainly info like the crappy chassis on the 1st fly release is important.

But lap time, handeling, feel, that, my friend, is where the rubber meets the road.

So how about some consumer reporting on lap times between the two on your home tracks, including brand, scaley, carrera and length.

And any subjective handeling vibes.
 

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QUOTE (darainbow @ 15 Feb 2004, 11:48 PM)Look at pics of a real GT40 and you will not see any hump over the front wheels. The fly is correct in this regard, the scaly has a little bit of "creativity" here.

It looks like that one was grossly exaggerated to fit those front tires.

Assuming the black #2 model is of the '66 Le Mans vinner, I'd say the hump is present on the original car as well:

http://www.gt40.org.uk/Le%20Mans/images/GT40_1046_LM.jpg
http://www.gt40.org.uk/Gallery/images/GT40_1046.jpg

Hard to say if it's been exaggerated from the pictures though...
 

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OK, I take back what I said. Here is a pic of the GT40 I was referring to. No wonder everyone is confused on what this car looked like!

 

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QUOTE (darainbow @ 15 Feb 2004, 11:48 PM)That black GT40 is farther from the truth than either the scaly or the fly!

Look at pics of a real GT40 and you will not see any hump over the front wheels. The fly is correct in this regard, the scaly has a little bit of "creativity" here.

It looks like that one was grossly exaggerated to fit those front tires.

Ouch, I just call it as I see it!
nope sorry, but this is the #2 McLaren/Amons 1966 Le Mans Winning Black and Silver MKII. Trust me, but I will admit to it being a lousy picture...the actual diecast looks just a tad different than the picture of it.

 

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Put my two new Fly cars (Red "Tergal" and Yellow "No name") beside my battered old Gulf Scaley yesterday.

On looks, no contest - Fly just exudes "model" and feels right to me - partly because the Scaley chrome is just too damn shiney for my liking, plus the headlights "look" much better on the Fly.

The tyres look wrong on the Margate missile too.

I'm not the smitten kitten with the Fly driver's head but then you look at the Scaley and it's game over.


My perception is that the Fly looks less of a toy. No idea and don't really care which is the most accurate "scale model" though: that's for the rivet counters to argue amongst themselves.

Guess I'll find out tomorrow which is the better runner over the Oxford bumps. My gut feeling is that the Fly will win simply because I fancy it will make it around a lap more often due to its vertically moving front axle. The Hornby car is just too fast for its own good and can't hack our less than smooth plexy (deslots on the straights on several lanes).

Big disappointment with the Fly was just how soft the chassis was, unscrew the body and the magnet sucks it into a distorted curve.
 

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Wankel,
Apologies for off-topic, but I am curious as to whether your track bumps are confined to only the plastic running surface or whether the slot is vertically kinked as well?
 

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On my routed track the Fly will win, every time.

Scalex can't get the grip like those big meats under the fly.

Fly stays slotted better too.
 

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Meco, most of the bumps are on the board joins - the track ends are exposed and the boards themselves have always been stacked on their shortest end. Ten years of moving them about and resting the boards on your feet occasionally means some pretty furry edges.

Furry? No, that's not the word to use at all!

Then we have a few "bomb holes" caused when it spent time in storage horizontally stacked and either the board above shifted down or something got dropped on it. At any rate it caused a few depressions.

Basically it's a good job Ninco are progressing with suspension!

Fingers crossed we will be rebuilding soon.
 

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Can´t someone please post some pics of the Fly GT40 Mk II from all angles (specially from behind). Imho it looks more right than the Scaly, but I have just seen the official pics (side). The Fly version has the "slope" on the rear-fenders and thats RIGHT! The Scaly just goes "straight down". I´m talking MkII´s here!



Danny
 

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Gene over at SCP was kind enough to send a Fly GT40 around to several people to try out..no obligations. Since I run my Scaley GT40 sans magnets, I removed the magnet from the Fly and ran several 25 lap stints with both cars keeping track of fast lap and average laptimes.

The Fly was consistantly 4/10ths faster than the Scaley and was much easier to drive..very smooth power delivery and very controlable in a drift.

I was a little surprised at the time difference, but figured it had to do with weight. I added .40 oz to match the exact weight of my Scaley car and reran several 25 lap segments..

AGAIN, the Fly was faster..faster fast lap and even better average lap times. 5/10ths this time. The Fly car ran very consistant laps after the first 10 (when the tires start to get a little dirty) and the Scaley kept getting slower and slower the dirtier the tires got.

For no mag racing, I think the Fly wins hands down.
 

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Could you describe more closely how you have modified the GT40's - both scalex and fly - to run without magnets? I have not experienced any GT40 to run even reasonably well without magnet... only with magnets. I surely would not mind to be running them without magnets.

//peter
 

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Peter,

Let me start by saying that although I run the Scaley GT40 without magnets, there are other cars in the same class that run better. The Scaley car, even with added weight down low, tends to break loose without alot of warning, and it also tends to chatter, or hop, around some bends if taken a little too fast. It is drivable, but it requires more concentration than the Fly version. The Fly car will start to slide out but it is much more controlable in a drift..it's actually quite fun to drive and is comparable to other similar no magnet cars that are the same layout/weight.

I much prefer the Fly version for non magnet racing.. Even box stock it is a good runner. It does require some break in.. oiled axels, trued tires, shimming the axels to eliminate any play etc.. all the basic things you would do to any car to get it nice and smooth.

Where I picked up a little and was able to lower my laptimes was by adding just under 4/10 oz. weight of lead. I put about .10 up front around the guide, and about .15 in each door panel (between the body and the interior as low as possible. Even sheet lead won't fit under the interior, but you can get some in the sides down in the lower 25% of the door panel.

Then, just start practicing your braking points and where to apply the throttle..as it will be different from the magnet versions.

Good luck~
 
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