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Sometimes it seems like the plastic soaks up the shiny after a while. I have waited a month and recleared and it has held up better.

Of course, I am a mere paint-plebeian and I actually did that only once...
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Use a little automotive car wax on the end of a Q-tip and gently wax her up. It will probably look better than when you first painted it.

I prefer "Mother's" automotive wax.

The green Cheetah will get the wax treatment in about 3-days. Then it'll really sparkle. You should be able to read the bulb wattage/rating reflection in the paint. :cool:
 

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Waitin' on Mr Bill for the definitive word...

Of course, with paint, there is more than one way to get there. Most of the ones I have tried result in tears.:cry: But if I stay after it, eventually I seem to get things to the point that I can stand it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
I agree. Bill has the final say on good paint advice.

If I don't like the way something turned out. I strip and repaint fresh. I would waste more time trying to fix a bad paint job than repainting. Check the "Rebuilding the fleet starting with the Jeep" thread for a bad paint job on a GTO stripped and repainted.

I am getting so sick and tired of rattle-can over spray!!! (I want an airbrush for my birthday)
 

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I am hesitant to wax anything until I am sure I will never want to re-paint.

Silicone can be a bear to lose--and I have commercial grade "prep-sol" just for that purpose.

Ken/Bill/All-- I use Meguire's "mist and wipe" and that does not seem to be a wax, but more of a solvent. Thoughts?

Also, Ken, how do you "strip"? Most solvents that will remove paint ruin plastic, and ditto for abrasives.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Super Clean degreaser in Canada. Royal Purple degreaser in the USA.

You can let the body soak in it for 3-days and it won't harm the plastic. 24-hours is usually enough (over night). I wish I knew about this stuff when I was a kid. It could have saved a lot of poorly painted models.
Liquid Light Purple Fluid Personal care
 
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