The remaking of Crow Valley Sprint Track

9674 Views 98 Replies 13 Participants Last post by Robbush, 2 mo ago

Robbush

Discussion Starter · 7 mo ago

Crow Valley Sprint Track Mk2.

(The first pic is of the original Mk1 build and what I'm remaking, only a little bigger)

Hi Guys,
You maybe interested in the remaking of the sprint track I made back in 2005. The original track was used in the 2006 Slot Rally GB. I sold that original track on Ebay shortly after the event to a winner in London and it was never seen again. I always regretted selling it, so now the 'pull' of slot racing has returned, I want my sprint track back!

There was always a plan to add a 4th section to the Mk1 track, so in starting all over again a 4th section can be properly added. The original plan was to simply add another section in length, but since doing quite a bit of online sim racing over the last few years, I have discovered the Oulton Park turn 5 shell oils corner (as well as always knowing the Nordschleife Carousel). So this has given me the chance to add a new feature to the coarse that is a little more interesting than just more flat turns.

Now work has started on the Mk2 track. The track is made up of 4 pieces of 3x2' 6mm MDF boards. Thickness will be added to the underside of the slot once the racing line has been marked and a 3.2x9mm slot will be routed in. There will also be a load of extra wood on the underside for strength as well as all the original Mk1 details added on the topside. The white surface you can see is 3 coats of primer ready for marking out and the white will form the part of the track markings, hence why 3 coats have been applied.

The boards you see laid out measure 11x2' with a 2x1' bump, the extra piece is for the bridge and any extras I may need (carousel). I will add more pics as I go and show how I personally go about making a routed slot track.

Rob

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Robbush

Discussion Starter · #81 · 3 mo ago (Edited)

GRUNZ said:
I think you need protection for the cars from the mesh!

Don't hit em then

In all seriousness, the track has been designed to actually keep speeds down (apart from the main straight!). When cars do have an 'off', the speed and momentum is actually fairly low. The only part of the track that can take a fair hit is the middle lamp post when coming down the straight after the bridge. That bend can come up fast if you squirt a little too much power coming out the hairpin. When testing before comp night, that was one of the things I sorted by putting an extra row of rubber tyres in front of the cast resin tractor tyres. I know that tyre wall saved me at least once on club night!

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Steve-E-D

· #82 · 3 mo ago

I am inspired. It may not happen soon, but I know that a router, copper tape and some 1:32 cars are in my future.

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Robbush

Discussion Starter · #83 · 3 mo ago

Go for it man!
It's not all that hard, it's just time and a lot of thought.
My next track may well be a simple 3 lane oval 😁

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Robbush

Discussion Starter · #84 · 3 mo ago

Since club night last week, I've been working my way through lots of very small jobs on Crow Valley. Nothing that was worth taking pictures of, mainly just stuff that makes it easier to store and transport.

However, two things of interest could be the control tower being made in brass and the total adjustment of my Ninco N-Scorer! I'm making the tower in brass as it needs to be strong incase it gets a knock and the N-Scorer needed to be more suited to my needs on this track and others I may build in the future.

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GRUNZ

· #85 · 3 mo ago

Not only you know how to work wood but also brass???
The tower looks great. Do you also make brass chassis?

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Robbush

Discussion Starter · #86 · 3 mo ago

I've got a few more tricks under my belt

This structure is no work of art, but it will be strong (my main goal). Once it's clad and painted, it'll look OK.
I've not made a slot car brass chassis, but I really want to make a Rat Rod in 1:32, so maybe a brass chassis will come soon? I have however designed and made many brass kits over the years. In the next few weeks I've got a tyre truer to machine up from scratch. I have all the steel and bits, just need to finish Crow Valley first.

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Robbush

Discussion Starter · #87 · 3 mo ago

A little more work on the tower.

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Robbush

Discussion Starter · #88 · 2 mo ago

OK, been a long evening of soldering, but finally got the building finished. I still need to clean up some of the solder joints, but I'm knackered now, so that is tomorrows job! Sand blasting and painting next over the weekend. the desk and figure (3D printed) is all ready to go in as well.

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MartinT

· #89 · 2 mo ago

A work of art!

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Aberstone

· #90 · 2 mo ago

Superb Rob.

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Roguejackal

· #91 · 2 mo ago

You took the words out of my mouth, absolutely brilliant.

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Robbush

Discussion Starter · #92 · 2 mo ago

Thank you guys for your kind comments, I'm hopefully not updating too much?

Here is a pic of the tower and some of it's parts painted in Tamiya XF-2 white as of 2pm today 🤗
Detailing and extra colours tomorrow.

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Robbush

Discussion Starter · #93 · 2 mo ago

Tower now finished.

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Robbush

Discussion Starter · #94 · 2 mo ago

In the dark.

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GRUNZ

· #95 · 2 mo ago

Looks really good. What kind of paint did you use?

Robbush

Discussion Starter · #96 · 2 mo ago

Tamiya Acrylics for all of it.
I had some in my paint box for years and never really understood them until a few weeks ago when I painted the fencing with them through my air brush. Then I bought some more and used them for everything apart from the figures (I didn't paint the figures! but they were done in Citadel).

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Robbush

Discussion Starter · #97 · 2 mo ago

This grotty building was also done in Citadel.

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Roguejackal

· #98 · 2 mo ago

The 'grotty' building is amazing, I would be so happy if I could wether some of my structures like that

Robbush

Discussion Starter · #99 · 2 mo ago

You'd be amazed at how easy it is to paint 'grotty' walls Roguejackel. Use Citadel paints and just stipple some white base coat and then wash on some thinned black and wipe it down, then just get stuck in with dark and light greens. I just used a very wide paint brush and clean rag to drag the paint down to get the streaks.

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