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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Comming from a Wargaming background re-configuable terrain is a must. The is OK with Sports track save for one issue ,elevations. All the current means of elevation take time and fiddlig save perhaps the Slot brick method. The other issue is borders. None of the standard methods seem to work well for borders on scaley track (there I may be doing Slot Brick a diservice sorry if I have). So what of a solution. My latest idea just tested 2 min ago seems one possible solution. I have glued N30 (rare earth) magnets (dia 3mm thickness 1mm) static pull 0,3 kg into the underside holes designed for flyover pegs, in a standard track. These magnets pull on clout nail heads mounted in 3mm Hardboard the width of the track plus borders. In my case 2 straight lengths with tapers curve entry and exit borders either side. Two track lengths is enough to do my flyovers at 75mm tall (small area no room for 3 track up-slopes). The magnets help to keep the track position on the hardboard. Using hardboard I can supports the track and borders effectiveley with few supports and means the high curves can be drifted like on a fixed track. To cut assembly time down "on the night", many of the hardboard sections will be for more than 1 track piece. The Track is not bespoke as the magnets is all they need. It looks to be a good compromise between fixed tracks and standard scaley. IF anybody thinks is a good idea, maybe 0.4kg or 0,6 kg magnets might be better but then there is a dangers of bending the track lifting it off the hardboard. Also the magnets I used were cheap about £7,00 for 100! Comments and ideas welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Photos I can do posting them I do not know how to do. Rngineer yes computor geek no ;-). Can you help?
 

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Greg Gaub
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http://www.slotforum.com/forums/index.php?...m&page=Pics
That's a bit outdated, though.
Essentially you:
1) take the photos
2) save them to your PC somewhere
3) sign up for a web photo service like photobucket, flickr, or any number of similar services.
4) upload the photos to your account on said service
5) copy the "BB code" link for the image and paste that into a message or...
6) copy the URL for the photo and click the "Insert Image" graphic button above the message editor, then paste in the URL and click OK.
7) post your message
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
here,s the photos:-

Held to board using method descibed

https://flic.kr/p/5242862859
Nail heads in board

https://flic.kr/p/5243458908
Magnet in a wood disk mountrd in the track.

https://flic.kr/p/5243459454
Since the photo I have upped the magnets to 4 in at least 2 positions on the track. Its 4 because magnets are wierd and 2 ass no extra power when close togeter, 3 dose not work, 1 gets repelled. 4 you get lots of extra pull. Will do next lot with 6mm magnets. However it works as can be seen from first pic. Fast build rug racing elevations with borders is now possible.
 

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Greg Gaub
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QUOTE (UshCha @ 7 Dec 2010, 23:30) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>here,s the photos:-

Held to board using method descibed


Lousie holding board only by brianalex2002, on Flickr

Nail heads in board


Nail heads in hardboard by brianalex2002, on Flickr

Magnet in a wood disk mountrd in the track.


view of magnet in wooden disk mounted by brianalex2002, on Flickr

Since the photo I have upped the magnets to 4 in at least 2 positions on the track. Its 4 because magnets are wierd and 2 ass no extra power when close togeter, 3 dose not work, 1 gets repelled. 4 you get lots of extra pull. Will do next lot with 6mm magnets. However it works as can be seen from first pic. Fast build rug racing elevations with borders is now possible.

Looks great! Very clever idea.
How are you supporting the elevated sections?

Also, when to post the images as I've done, click the "Share this" link, then choose "Grab the HTML/BBCode" then choose the BB Code option, and finally copy the code to paste in your message.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The elevated flat sections are supported by an L shaped bracket (repair bracket from the local hardware store) bolted by a single bolt on the underside and a hardboard "leg" bolted to the vertical section. This takes minimal space and stands outside the main hardboard section so you can route a track and borders underneath. On the ramps to the elevation, "as shown in the pics" it would appear that a single support at the "high end", currently a block does the job. With the higher magnet srength mentioned, the hardboard and track of form a composite structure stronger than either alone.
Revision 2 - is that the magnets can be secured directly to the track at the right hight with a simple position tool and hot melt glue. Will finish more track over the next few days and then post a picture of the assembly with the rug race track assembly time.

Next task in planning is a pits building that folds up and down in 30 sec. I just need to get the size right, I design that sort of building and sell them as pdf's as a wargames 1/72ego trip! ;-)
 

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Brilliant idea!

Not familiar with N30 type magnets (are they really "special"?) but wondered if the cheap round magnets from the Dollar Store or a craft store would also work (maybe not as great a "pull" as the smaller 3mm N30 ones) but they might "fill" the entire hole.

Here is an extension idea....

Mounting magnets in ALL the holes on the underside... would that not act similar to the magnetic paint idea, especially around the corners, to keep mag cars from sliding?

Anyone wish to try?
Cheers!
 

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Would they not be like the magnetic paint that someone else was extolling recently?

Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ember

So far as we can tell the magnets will have minimal effect on a mag car as the magnets are further away from the car that the nail head and the forcedrops away very quickly. We did a simple tow test and could see no diffrence. You would need magnetic paint or magnetic paper on the track for cars to work

Sealevel
A larger magnet of lower power would work. The only thing is it should not go above the mounting hole and the nail head must sit inside the hole. This keeps the track flat everywhere as it would without magnets and the nail heads for the same reson needs to be inside the hole unless you mountiv abolutely flush, which would be a pain to do quickly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Test track with new flyover using all standards of magnet. Latest 6mm dia work best.

Flyover track
Bit low at 75 mm and cars only just clear the ramp on the way up and have a tendency to go straight on if taken too fast. Got rid of inside borders as it obstructs the lower track too much.
 

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Greg Gaub
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Really low riding cars like those Group C (?) cars will always need a really smooth transition for elevations, not to mention a gentle hand upon nearing the top of the ramp up.
Great little track, though. Got any more curve types on the way?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The flyover track is interesting as a one off but not a great track for regular driving , but thats the gain of rug raceing.
The current racing track is below.

https://flic.kr/p/5366572752
The banked curve (scaley std part) at 10 degrees is interesting it is not the old "Wall of death" of the classic type but allows an interesting variation from a standard R2 curve. Still working on tracks. The trick is to make it long (max theroretical in the area is 12m or more but it does not look interesting), hence trying to design a quick assembley flyover.
 
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