[GRUNZ]

I think it is time to start a new thread about the SCP3 to discuss our stories and experience with this excellent new generation of slot.it controllers.

I got mine today. Installed the app on my Android device without any issue (sorry for you all sucker with an iOS device - it sucks I know ;-)) .

Performed the registration and the first firmware upgrade: painless.

It is so nice not to have to use the bootloader!

Register with my M6 (I wish it had been a GTR...but it will come later) and all works as it should!

Run a couple of laps on RCSO2 and again all working perfectly.

Next week we will be out of lockdown and I should put it through its racing with my oXigen crew.

Next: I have the PA module but I have not installed it yet. This will be the next steps. But first I have to give my arms a nice workout.

Next next: I do not have a battery yet (I bought the power module and the controller is wired as a standard SPC2 with oXigen - call me old fashioned but I like to have controlled "wired" to the track). THis will be the next step although I am not sure how much I will use it.

Overall, very positive first impression. I will recommend this controller to another guy racing at my place now that I know how painless it is to active and play with it.

Finally, a bit thank you to the slot.it team to deliver another outstanding piece of equipment and keeping pushing the envelope!

 

[Dr_C]

Hi Grunz et al., I had a similarly very positive experience when my new SCP-3 arrived yesterday. In my case I registered/activated with the iOS app and used nRF tools to update the firmware to v3.11. All straight forward.

I ordered up a flat shaped lithium polymer battery and also a solder tagged AA sized pack known as a14500 size i.e. 14mm diameter and 50mm length... should fit... and it has a capacity of 2300mAh.

I too would like to thank Maurizio and the Slot.it team for bringing an excellent new product to the community.

c

 

[GRUNZ]

Today I installed the Power Amplifier module.

First off, you need to remove a red lid that is attached to the back of the handle via 4 torx screws.

As specified in the instructions, you need a Torx T3 wrench. I do not have one so I used the standard tool for grub screws.

It worked out ok in the end - I DO NOT ADVISE YOU TO DO SO - but I am not going to put the screws back.

The red lid snug fit is quite good.

The installation of the module per se is very easy.

The activation part was not that bad but there are some differences with what the manual says.

I have installed the latest handle firmware and when i put the controller in App mode it only display "AP": according to the manual this is only if you have an early version of the firmware. As I said it is not the case for my handle.

Then, when the PA has not been activated (this is the first time that the PA is connected to the app) and you put the controller in App mode and connect to the PA (Up arrow to select the PA), the handle should display "PA" but in my case it only displayed "--".

Then, when the app search for devices to find the PA, it shows a device called SCP3a instead of something like PA or power amplifier. I had to check the mac address to make sure that it was not trying to connect to the handle again.

Once registered then when connecting to the app, the message PA appears correctly.

A couple of suggestions:

- once the app updates the firmware, the device information is not refreshed: still the old firmware version number appears although the operation has been successfully completed. Once the device connects again the right information is displays. It would be nice to have the information refreshed as soon as the operation finishes.

- when the handle is activated, there is a nice message that displays the Ha, mode and firmware version, then "PA on": it would be nice to have also the firmware version of the PA displayed.

- would it be possible to deactivate the PA without physically removing it from the handle? Maybe via the app or a combinations of tbutton at booting time?

 

[Slot.it]

Grunz, thank you for the useful feedback.

I also would advise against using anything but a Torx T3 wrench to remove the rear lid.

I'm taking note of the differences that you are reporting, and they will be addressed next week.

Also, your suggestions are quite logical and soomer or later will be implemented.

The last one, i.e. PA Deactivation at boot, is also something we have been discussing, but came to the conclusion that there are so many boot options already, that it is better left to an APP or BL option.

When we'll introduce further APP options this is certainly one that will be done.

 

[GRUNZ]

Thanks Maurizio for the reply.

As I said not a big deal but some messages might confuse some of the new users.

About the PA de/activation. It could be as simple as:

- put the controller in app mode

- select the PA with the arrow up

- press Brake button

- controller in PA mode and ready to connect

- While in this mode {

if press arrow up, message "PA On" appears, then press Brake button to select, message "PA" appears, return

if press arrow down, message "PA Off" appears, the press Brake button to select, message "--" appears, return

}

yes there is an extra step, but I like the fact that you are making use of the arrow up and down and brake button to select. It is like the pre-race window in RCSO2 ;-)

The main reason of this is that I am sure that the PA module will drain more power from the battery. Most likely people will tend to use the battery to power their SCP3 in races within confined environments like in a small clubs like mine. In this situation the PA is not that beneficial and detrimental on battery usage. On the other hand, racing in larger events people might use the external power to power up their SCP3 and make full usage of the PA capabilities.

 

[Dr_C]

It had to be two...

Either...

one for me and one for my race companion,

or...

one set up for O2 and one set up for ARC PRO.

So that's two then

c

 

[GeraldL]

I need to get a high amp cartridge for my SCP2, is the SCP2 going to be replaced or is the SCP3 just for the digital community? Will the SCP3 have a high amp cartridge or is it a digital only controller?

 

[MrFlippant]

The SCP3 is capable of using all the analog cartridges, so you can get an SCP3 and a high amp cart, and be able to use it for analog as well as a few digital things without adding more carts.

But, if you already have an SCP2, and have no plans of racing any digital slot cars, then there's little reason to get an SCP3. You would not be gaining anything above the capabilities of your SCP2 for analog racing... at least that I'm able to think of at the moment.

 

[GeraldL]

Thanks for the really helpful info, here in France we are condemned to the DAVIC system, just more anarchy.

 

[GRUNZ]

But at least you have a nice digital system to race with...;-)

Ok, moving things forward, let's talk about batteries: which battery are you using with your SCP3?

I have seen some links in another thread but then it seems that the battery is not the correct one in size.

Any links?

 

[Dr_C]

I ordered up two options... rectangular standard flat-shaped single cell 3.7V packs and AA-sized (also known as 14500) 3.7V packs which have solder terminals. The flat-shaped packs are 750mAh and the AA-size packs are 2300mAh so I am hoping the latter will fit correctly. Will share an update once I have tested both types.

c

 

[DaveLat]

But at least you have a nice digital system to race with...;-)

Ok, moving things forward, let's talk about batteries: which battery are you using with your SCP3?

I have seen some links in another thread but then it seems that the battery is not the correct one in size.

Any links?

Gio, these are the batteries use

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07CYMYMS9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The connectors are different to the one on the scp-3 so i bought these to adapt it

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07DJ4LH42/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dave

 

[GRUNZ]

Thanks both.

Dave I found these ones on my "local" dispatcher: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001130653493.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.27c2613aIsA08Z&algo_pvid=d945fdff-804f-46ff-9699-22306840a20b&algo_expid=d945fdff-804f-46ff-9699-22306840a20b-0&btsid=0bb0624415989519988923606ea4ed&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

They are really cheap...

 

[Slot.it]

The SCP3 is capable of using all the analog cartridges, so you can get an SCP3 and a high amp cart, and be able to use it for analog as well as a few digital things without adding more carts.

But, if you already have an SCP2, and have no plans of racing any digital slot cars, then there's little reason to get an SCP3. You would not be gaining anything above the capabilities of your SCP2 for analog racing... at least that I'm able to think of at the moment.

Just an update - the SCP3 now is compatible with all cartridges, analog or digital.

 

[Dr_C]

Is there a procedure for calibration of the throttle movement please?

I have a SCP-3 controller which doesnt show the red LED signal when the throttle is fully pressed. Its set up for ARC PRO - another with identical firmware functions correctly. When I interrogate the ARC PRO BLE packets the controller reads a max of hex 3E not hex 3F. The second controller correctly reads as hex 3F.

Any assistance would be great - many thanks,

c

 

[Slot.it]

Hi Clive.

I think it is a matter of recalibration.

Follow the calibration procedure.

 

[Dr_C]

Thanks Maurizio, I followed the instructions and all running perfectly now - many thanks.

With a lipo fitted into the SCP-3 the initial step of the throttle calibration procedure was even more straight straightforward... with dials set and buttons pressed as per the instructions I switched on (straight to CRV mode) and immediately arrived at the calibration sequence.

Many thanks!

c

 

[bswan72]

How does the SCP3 controller compare as far as control to the stock ARC PRO controller?

 

[MrFlippant]

Since most of the adjustments on an SCP are for curve control, and the ARC system is capable of programmed throttle curves, the only real difference is going to be in ergonomics, or "feel." That said, it's nice to be able to just turn a knob real quick to adjust the curve as needed, rather than messing around in app options every time you want to make a tweak to it.

I like a nice, light spring, so the SCP3 is going to be preferable. I know people who prefer a hard spring, so would prefer the ARC controller. I do prefer the position of the buttons on the ARC controllers, though, especially when it comes to those who hold the controller in their left hand.

 

[Kyle315a]

The Turnigy battery pictured in the manual doesn't fit as discussed here: https://slotracer.online/community/showthread.php?tid=1674

This battery was recommended above: https://www.amazon.com/MakerFocus-Rechargable-Protection-Insulated-Development/dp/B07CXNQ3ZR

However you'll need to change the connector type: https://www.amazon.com/DGZZI-5Pairs-Connector-Battery-Helicopter/dp/B07PQJLDYK