Hi Elicend- I tried to explain as much as I could on the Ferrari project. Sorry if it's still not clear. If there's anything in particular you need help with, email me and I'll try and help. The best thing though is to experiment yourself- it's not too tricky!
I do this in the way the OPPOSITE of the one described.
I mount the mold/original on a thin post about 6" tall. Mounted on a base(all balsa). I use a sheet a couple inches bigger than the part...warm over a CANDLE. When the plastic is droopy, just pull it down over the original. If too cool, it looks like your photo, if too hot, it melts before you get to the mold.
But I do this all the time, windshields and everything.
Get some clear acetate sheet from your model shop... I used 0.1mm for the headlight covers, maybe something a little thicker for a bigger part like a windscreen. E-type windows should not be a problem, as long as you can make a form or mould accurately, or have the old windows to use. You won't be able to make any deeply undercut or hollowed shapes though.
I tried to take a picture 'during' the warm-up, but despite my wife's sweaters, I don't have enough arms. Perhaps Russell could manage it. I like to use a hot air blower- a hair dryer would probably do. As soon as the acetate goes soft and sags through the hole, you can push the mould into it. If it doesn't work, or goes solid before you have shaped the part fully, heat it up some more and go again.
We used this method to make cockpit canopies for our model aircraft when I was a kid, but we used to hold the thing over a gas flame. The hot air gun is safer, and it still works!
The best thing is always just to try it. If it all goes wrong, try it again!
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