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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Yellowbug,

We have done the Shinoda thing for 5 races so far. One of the fun things about these proxy races is that they rarely are the same. I am sorry that you missed out during the last 6 or so years.
You see, we pick a theme and a few rules (very few) to built toward. It gives a little leeway for innovation to keep the grey matter happy and provides an outlet for our favorite hobby. A win win as far as I can tell.

Steve, you said it very well, thanks my friend!
 

· Mike Zimmerman
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QUOTE When ever we try to hold an event that emulates earlier eras of any activity, and try to set guidelines to identify that period, eg before 1970, we need more rules now, than they had back then.
Back then, they didn't have all the stuff we have now, or the improvements in design like flexi frames, and all the aero used by today's racers.
Racers in the 60's didn't need many rules, because they were racing that latest and greatest available to them at the time, and when anything goes.
Like Jairus has said quite a few times, try to put yourself back in time when you were standing in front of the parts rack at your hobby store or track.
What materials and parts were available?
They are the ones to use.
Most of us probably couldn't afford the best stuff on the hooks back then, and now we can.
We need rules to remind us how it was.

I agree Steve, very well said. Jairus is handling the situation masterfully. When you limit the components to 1970 or earlier, this takes care of many of the problems you bring up. Motor, wheels, guide etc. can be policed. Chassis design is another thing. It's a judgement call. All you can really say is no lazer cut & no manufactured chassis, must be scratchbuilt. In a Thingie class you have to let creativity blossom or it's not a Thingie class but, rather just another slot car class. This series of proxy races over the last six years has been very unique. Many try to compare it to D3 but, it's NOTHING LIKE D3. Our Thingie proxys are like nothing else running which is why they are so great and we have been twice blessed with equally great race directors. Thingies are "Outlaw" cars and outlaws "Run whatcha brung" pretty much.

Z
 

· Doilum
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Sorry to throw a spanner in the works, but I thought that it was only the motor tech that had to be >1970 but wheels, guide, and anything else was free.

Just to add to the above conversation, I agree with the last few points totally... You've got to be free to invent. Both body and chassis, isn't that what the thingie movement is about. Look at some of those wonderful crazy machines that Jairus has built, with wierd suspension arrangements etc. And Lowrider, and Howmet... Just fabulous.

OK, this proxy is for Balls Out speed, and people will be designing for that in mind, lets see what they come up with. Their solutions may all be similar, they may be wildly different. But they should all be scratchbuilt... The 'fun' is in the build as much as in the racing (actually, for me it is all in the build, I'm happy that someone else does the racing).

The rules I've been working on up to now are;

Choti style body
Max overall dims 3.25w x 2.0h x 8.0l
Scratch built inline chassis (brass and steel.. no exotic materials)
>1970 Motor tech (ceramic magnets, open rule arm)
1/16 ground clearance.

Am I still good to proceed?

Al
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Al,

Yeah, those are the rules so far. Edo and one other guy suggested changes that added lots more rules including narrowing down the frame rule to a U-Go two-rail only or likewise replica. But the conscious seemed to be to leave the scratch-building of the frame open, ie: fewer rules.

But... one of the suggestions was to allow any body, especially the Shinoda line.
The whole point of this exercise I thought was to build the quickest pre 1970 vintage slot car possible. And now someone wants to forego the aero-advantage? Makes no sense and the entries will only become missiles when it comes to a corner.
So.. I am thinking that in light of three requests to mold their own bodies, that the body rule be changed to "Any body as long as it is a THINGIE"! But any thinking person will utilize one of the deep-dish choti bodies because they are PROVEN to work.

As for the 1970's wheels. It would be nice if everyone would use period correct front and rear wheels. There is nothing produced today that even come close to what we used to have back in 1970 so that would require gluing and truing of Alpha or JK rubber onto old period wheels. I understand that not everyone can do this or even has even one set of vintage wheels. But if a vintage motor can be found, wheels too can be found.

But as far as I am concerned, it is not a deal breaker. The car will still run with modern wheels.

But Al, remember that these rules have not yet been set in stone. And I will not do so until the current Proxy is done. This time period for me is just the testing phase, and if I can ever get a few hours of free time, I will finish that mule and send it out for testing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Edo will be happy to know... I scored a U-Go chassis on ebay. It is mounted inside a running car that looks like it was built back in the day. It has very dry tires by the way. I pray that the chassis is not modified.

At any rate, when it gets here I plan to pull it apart and in the 'spirit of the race' make that my mule. I am doing this because there was some controversy over my use of a perimeter frame on Slotblog. Sooo.... new plan: going all vintage.... and waiting on the post.

The new tires are glued and trued, front wheels and keepers at the ready. Assembly will take a day with another just to hog on some paint.
Maybe this next weekend?
 

· Mike Zimmerman
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It's funny, I've seen a lot of ebay/swap meet Ugo chassied cars over the years and actually bought 2 or 3 but, I don't remember ever seeing one mounted under an aero type body or for that matter any body other than an open wheel type car.

Maybe my memory is fading a bit but......

z
 

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Hi Z,

Not so unusual perhaps - I think the real aero bodies in that period were pretty limited to NorCal, and in all my years of hanging out on ebay, plus swap meets, etc., I have only managed to score one Choti body - and was darned happy to get that! I also wonder if these high speed missiles weren't destroyed at a greater rate than certain other cars...

I think we all tend to forget too that up to 67 or so, the open-wheelers were definitely the preferred type of car in most open competitions - wasn't till they started to get heavier that the sports/GT models really came into their own, and that was sealed with the anglewinder!

Don
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Okay, in an effort to keep Edo and that other guy... George I think, happy. I picked this up on ebay so I could start with a purely vintage entry to test. The chassis is a U-Go Smith item that was modified slightly to add weight.

The rest of the parts are pretty nice and will go into a variety of other projects already in the works. Seems almost a shame to part it out...
Construction begins Saturday, happy Wednesday everyone!
 

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Nice score indeed, Jairus. I like the one screw body mount.

Didn't The Vitter have a thread here about building a similar car to this, about a million years ago? I think he got close to finishing it as well.

Regards,
L.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Dave finished that car. (In the beginning thread) He mounted a "One-winger" O2R body on it and painted it bright yellow with a picture of "The Hulk" hand painted I think. The paint and finished pictures I believe are buried in the Nor-Cal forum 'Thingie' section. At least that is the last place I saw it.
 

· R.E.F.
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Hey Steve


Daves car is still cool after all these years
Who's going to make the motor brakets & tongue etc. for the biulds???

I'll need a few ? LoL. You know, to mock up the choti, and Shinoda bodies- in reg wide & extended width


i-ray
 

· R.E.F.
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This is the other body that was talked about- Onewinger

The latest versions- done in .015's- the thinnest ever....?









I added the insert- black sun-noda insert - to give it some perspective on the wing. Now this would be exceptable under the no stapled wing rule ? Not that I would use this design in the next series- you'll have to wait for the Two-winger versions


i-ray
 

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"Eat at Joes Crab Shack" for instance? Great place for seafood by the way....

Okay, got the chassis done for my Choti Mule today. Took about 6 hours total from start to finish and I like it! Very vintage and I used quite a bit from the original eBay car: motor bracket, guide tongue, forward body mount and front axle.

A new set of rails were formed and slightly bowed so the motor would fit.

The finished chassis frame...


... and with all the bits attached.

The motor was originally built and re-wound by John Havlicek. I added a set of period correct heat sinks.

Ready for paint and lead wires. (Body by O2R)

 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Thank you Paul. I would have felt better with a perimeter frame, but so many complained that it didn't look vintage that I bowed to peer pressure.

Okay, the Mule is done and ready for testing. I hogged on a very simple two color paint-job and won't be detailing it any further as this is just a test car.





Motor has been bench tested at 2v for about 3 minutes to make sure the gear is worked in nicely. The motor sounds close to the scream a modern wing car makes and nearly as responsive! Not sure what magnets John put in, but they definitely look ceramic.
BTW those heat sinks really work as they get pretty warm...
But the "B" can motor is really heavy at 40 to 45g! I think for this car to go any faster I'll need to see about building one that is about 10 grams lighter using a thin wall Mubuchi can mated to a later model Mura endbell designed for the A/D can. Or just grab an old Champion can from somewhere like John Havlicek is doing....


Going into the mail tomorrow.
Guide is a Jet Flag dyed black.
Front wheels unknown, prob. U-Go.
Rear wheels unknown.
Body by O2R.
Motor Mura.
Gears Parma/Cox 7/28.


Now it's time to paint some bodies...
 
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