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Thingie's: What were they all about?

11707 Views 108 Replies 19 Participants Last post by  Jairus Watson
Just spitballing here but I've been thinking about this for months since the 2011 proxy started. A few of you wanted to run the Parma track and I shot that idea down right quick due to the simple fact that the faster tracks tend to destroy some of these toys more than the shorter tracks.

So... here is an idea for the Proxy 2012. Not totally sure just who will step forward and organize the next event. But I wanted to get our creative juices flowing again long before the deadline in order to source the needed bits.

Here is what I have been mulling over and darned if it was not inspired by ol'"Wavemaker".

The idea is to run only one or two fast tracks. Fastest car wins! (prizes, money, glory?)
Thingie's are basically "balls out" designs that use the best of the best tech to go as fast as possible.
A quick peek at the final pages of our history already reads that the current wing racer occupies (there is that word again) the current position on that throne of all 'Thingiedom' so why not go with that... ?

I present this idea: "Choti Doody"!
Yeah, the Choti line of bodies pretty much contain the essence of the modern wing racer. Anyone can solder together a light weight chassis. So the question is.... what motors?
Well, we have stuck with 1968 as a tech line-in-the-sand in the past almost to the point of insanity! However, I suggest in order to increase participation and move the movement forward, (not to mention increase reliability) the tech deadline should be adjusted to 1970. This would allow "C" can motors! (or the "B" of course)
Ah... that would be Champion and Mura "C" can motors (two hole) with-out bussbars! but cutting the can down could be allowed!

Can drive or endbell drive makes no difference but we limit the placement to in-line only just for fun.
Any gears, any wheels and tires as long as they were available in 1970.
All bodies have to be Choti or you will fly off the freaking track.
No added wings, just the body that was originally molded. (Electric Dreams and O2R have them)

The question is... how much down force do you need?
How much weight?
How much power can we squeeze out of a little Mura motor packed full of the best ceramic magnets on the face of this earth?
(or should we allow any magnets?)

Soooo.... how quick is quick on the Parma track?
Yeah, I want to race on PARMA and at least one AMERICAN KING!

What do you think?
Wanna play BALLS OUT?
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First artwork for the poster. Not exactly sure what else should go on it other than a bit from the rules list I suppose.
T-shirt artwork is next.
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Great poster Jairus.

I wouldn't add any rules or change a thing - except for the dates! American style: Sept. 30, 2012

I know, it's all graphics, but I'm such a stick in the mud...

And those dates are coming up faster than I'd like, hope I have time to get building (of course the basic parts have been sitting on my desk for a year or so, but ...)

Two shots of where I'm at as of this evening. (Hope all looks legal...At least its square now hehe).

Sorry for the poor lighting. We are experiencing a thunderstorm.
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Heya Al,

That looks fantastic,
the body too
What wood did you use for it?

Cheerio Al the best,

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Hide your children and your women!

Be very afraid, DESMO DEVIL is coming soon!


PS Hey Chief, you're about to make another one of your chef-d'oeuvres! BRAVO!
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Quaking in my boots Sire.

Thanks guys for the encouragement. I've got the pans on now and I'm quite pleased with the result. I particularly like the economy of the up-stop/bracing. Photos to follow.

Jaak. The mould is made up from many strips of 3mm MDF laminated together (see earlier picture) each laminate was cut and sanded to the profile at that cross-section then they were glued together for final sanding. This allowed me to keep more control over the shape than simply carving. Its not an ideal method as it can dictate some of the design outcome, but I thought I'd run with it and see where it led. Especially as my carving skills are non-existant and I'm a stickler for symmetry.

I´m missing the "Like"-button here, Edo! I´m afraid, VERY afraid!!!
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Hide your children and your women!

Be very afraid, DESMO DEVIL is coming soon!


My kids have made for the hills shaking and I have no women left to hide! I myself are scared...but what are we scared of?
Show and tell...!

The Drama is killing us all.

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To counter your frightening onslaught, we raise the flag of the Revolution!!!

Hail le FRENCH!!!

-Le Max
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I,d love to build a balls to the wall thingie, but building the motor puts me off. you cant get Bugenis type coms for love nor money. the cost of making the com welder, and the price of clear very high temp resin is outa sight. the rest doesn,t pose too much of a problem. i supose i could have a a word with John Havelececk about the motor. but the idea of putting that much money into some one elses hands freaks me out a bit. john
Nobody says you have to build a motor. Find a nice gp12 vintage Mura and pop that in. Frankly I think a motor like that is about perfect for this race.
Or even better (to make me look better)

Just put a simple old unloved abused worn out barely running period motor in it and give me a chance not to be last

Thanks in advance

Max and Ray are you guys secretly rooting for me since i moved to France?
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Hey Guys,

I thought you might like to see how my chassis design evolved for this proxy...

Initially I was wanting to build as light as possible and create as much downforce from the aero shape of the body, in keeping with the spirit of this proxy. So I took the Ugo chassis as my start point. However, I wanted to give the front axle a little more support and so added two more rails to form a strong triangular shaped chassis...

Next, I began to think of ways I could transfer the downforce created (hopefully) by the front spoiler directly to the front of the chassis in an attempt to keep the guide in the slot, and so I decided to do away with the bent wire axle of the Ugo and instead use an axle tube on which the front of the body could bear down. I also thought that to save weight, the outer rails could double as axle tube supports...

Next I began to consider how the body attached to the chassis. Here the pin tubes are soldered on top of a hinge tube that wraps around the main rails...

Having discussed my chassis design in post on Slotblog, I got a PM from my "Chassis Mentor" suggesting that the Ugo chassis would be light up front and I shouldn't rely on aero to keep the guide in the slot and instead should concentrate the weight just behind the guide and so taking his advice I decided to span the width of the chassis with a strip of brass centred on the front axle...

As I enjoy cutting brass, and curvy elegant shapes I decided to make more of the front brass work. Further refinements of the design also showed that I could use the centre rails to add support to the axle tube (previously I had imagined a length of square brass tubing running under the axle tube) and I was pleased with the economy of the design. Note, the pans design had changed at this point and was of the shaker/flexi type. I didn't realise that they were outlawed until later.

Finally I moved from pencil sketches to some 2D design software I have which allows me to correctly dimension everything and print off templates for cutting brass with my trusty piercing saw. At this stage I finallised the pans design with hinge tubes up front and alongside of the rear bracket. The pin tubes double as hinge wires and some piano wire reinforcing to the front hinge tubes doubles as an up-stop. Here is how the chassis looks as of today...

I haven't designed it to be 'Choti', 'Vintage', 'Retro', 'D3' or any other 'type', just to work well with my body and to stay on the track in the fast curves. As far as being period correct, well it has Kai wheels, Rehco rear bracket, Parma Crown (stained black) and 16D motor and if I had been a young lad walking out of that model shop in 1970 with a bag of goodies and worked through this same design process I believe I would have come up with the same answer.

BTW, I'm really pleased with the chassis, I've no idea how it'll run, It might turn out to be a real dog, but I love the economy of the design, and the pans make a very satisfying clunk when the hit the travel limit.

Hope you've enjoyed the read.


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Thanks for the background info, Al. All logical and well thought out.
In taking the obvious steps you have towards making a strong and good handling chassis you have inadvertently come to a convergence of ideas with some current Retro racing design concepts. That's no problem whatsoever as far as I'm concerned and I have nothing but admiration for your work.

Unfortunately, as I think you're now aware, some observers (with no apparent intention to enter a car in the races) have seized upon this innocent intersection of ideas to stir up trouble with the series director. He will have to search his conscience and find his own way out of this situation not of his own making. I hope a solution that's acceptable to all parties actively involved in this Thingie series can be found in an amicable way.

My vote, for what it's worth - not a lot - is that the hard work in chassis development already done should be allowed to race and prove or disprove it's worth.
Best wishes,
Not passing any judgement right now. I made a few suggestions to Al via email and he wants to "stay the course".
I agree, the car is looking great and will be beautiful when done. It however is not a Choti and I think most will recognize that.

So... lets wait and see what some of the other quieter entrants finally post in the next 30 days. I suspect Al's car may turn out to be mainstream rather than the radical it currently appears to be.
i always thought "thingies" were ultra -
light weight wire chassis , rewind horsepower and slick bodies ,,,
What can I say about BALLS OUT Proxy?

To be revealed....!

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