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The first production run of SureChange guides arrived over the weekend, so after packing and dispatching the pre-orders I found myself with a little free time so I thought I would fit a couple of the production version guides to some classic Scaleys I had in my cupboard.
One is a BMW M1 and the other a C053 Datsun 260Z - whose story is told here...
Take one "tired" old Scalextric C053 Datsun 260Z
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Modify the chassis to allow the guide and LED wires to move freely above the guide
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Then...
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A = cut the chip's guide wires about half way, remove the metal "shoes" and reconnect the guide wires with the "ferrite man" in the middle. This leaves the other end free to fit to the guide with standard eyelets.
B = test fit the bare guide and trim the stem to the correct length. Fit the guide wires using eyelets. Fit a new LED (or the old one resoldered) on flexible guide wire into the retaining ring on the front of the guide. (You can use the LED as it comes but the wires may break after prolonged use as they are not designed for movement). It's a push fit so no glue needed.
C = solder the flexible LED wires to the original ones from the chip and hold in place with blu tack to protect the joints from stress.
D = optionally fit an extra ferrite man between the motor leads and the motor - if you suffer a stuttering motor then this is the fix for it (it's not the motor - it's the effect the motor is having on the chip and the ferrite man solves this).
E = fix the chip in place - I prefer Blu Tack, others use Hot Glue. A little blue tack on each end allows air to circulate and keep the components cool.
Close-up of the guide.
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Jazz up the tired old lady, give her a bath to soak away the tattoos, sand away the wrinkles and give her a brand spanking new coat (fake fur of course!)
![]()
Once more a tiger prowls the wastelands of South West Wales.
![]()
Why bother to change your guide? Check out the video - car with conventionally placed LED vs. the SureChange guide.
Liberate your track design and never miss a lane change again.
http://www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/rh9oqqcMgTc?rel=0
One is a BMW M1 and the other a C053 Datsun 260Z - whose story is told here...
Take one "tired" old Scalextric C053 Datsun 260Z
Modify the chassis to allow the guide and LED wires to move freely above the guide
Then...
A = cut the chip's guide wires about half way, remove the metal "shoes" and reconnect the guide wires with the "ferrite man" in the middle. This leaves the other end free to fit to the guide with standard eyelets.
B = test fit the bare guide and trim the stem to the correct length. Fit the guide wires using eyelets. Fit a new LED (or the old one resoldered) on flexible guide wire into the retaining ring on the front of the guide. (You can use the LED as it comes but the wires may break after prolonged use as they are not designed for movement). It's a push fit so no glue needed.
C = solder the flexible LED wires to the original ones from the chip and hold in place with blu tack to protect the joints from stress.
D = optionally fit an extra ferrite man between the motor leads and the motor - if you suffer a stuttering motor then this is the fix for it (it's not the motor - it's the effect the motor is having on the chip and the ferrite man solves this).
E = fix the chip in place - I prefer Blu Tack, others use Hot Glue. A little blue tack on each end allows air to circulate and keep the components cool.
Close-up of the guide.
Jazz up the tired old lady, give her a bath to soak away the tattoos, sand away the wrinkles and give her a brand spanking new coat (fake fur of course!)
Once more a tiger prowls the wastelands of South West Wales.
Why bother to change your guide? Check out the video - car with conventionally placed LED vs. the SureChange guide.
Liberate your track design and never miss a lane change again.
http://www.youtube-nocookie.com/embed/rh9oqqcMgTc?rel=0
