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· Premium Member
422 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Following the scrappy, prototype light-loom board (with rectifier) I showed in my 'Old Porsches...' thread recently, I have been planning out a tiny PCB - to replace the same, and help save time and space. This may interest others wishing to more easily fit 'DIY' head and tail lights into a digital car.

I would like to explore the idea here, learn how to improve it, and iron out any problems, before I go ahead and order a batch of boards.

I have been trying to learn the (free) 'Easy EDA' software.. which has not been that simple, for me at least!

The PCB is sized 20mm x 27mm. It is meant to fit, as flat as possible, onto the engine, insulated with tape, and slightly raised on one end to clear the motor breathing holes. This board is for through-hole components. The solder on the reverse side will be filed down as far as practicably possible.

There won't actually be terminal pins shown, just holes to solder the wires into. I can't find how to show this in the software, or find suitable connectors?

The diodes rectify the AC track voltage to DC so that the lights will stay on all the time. The resistors are for the head and tail light LEDs, and the capacitor / ferrite man intended to be bent down over the front of the board, i.e. not sticking up as shown here.

The terminal connections are as follows:

H+ and H- headlights.
T+ and T- tail lights
B1 and B2 direct to the braids.
G and Y wires to the chip

diodes IN4148 as suggested by Mr Modifier
resistors to suit (ignore the colour codes here)

I hope to gain some experience building this first, and then move on to making an even smaller one for break lights... when someone clever comes up with a completed circuit. I will then plonk the second PCB in between the tail lights and the back axle. A second ferrite could be fitted 'across the motor terminals' at any stage.

So, any ideas would be very welcome please. These should be incredibly cheap to have made by the way, and the plan here idea is open for anyone to try.


the board as populated by the software
the board without components (only a few tracks show up here for some reason - and some from the top and bottom layer making it look wrong!) but they are all present and correct in real life, honest!


· Circuit Owner
5,961 Posts
I found these the other day

Should take up less room and be less fiddly to solder than 4 N4148's. Not yet arrived but on their way.

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