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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, this is going to be my 1st permanent track so it needs to be a good one

I am really rubbish at track design and was hoping that the good folk of this forum could throw so designs my way.

There is however a twist,

I have a small brief,
It's going to be a 8'x8' board.
However it is going to be a folding track, so no bends to be on the cross between the 2 8x4 boards.
Also flyovers and raised track can only be on 1 of the 8x4 boards, due to thickness constrains, (going to wall hang the track)

It's to be using scalextric digital, PB pro and Pit Pro.
I only want 2 lanes except for the pit lane.

Big ask but please help a noob
 

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One n00b helping another n00b. My passion for slot cars has just recently been re-awaken, but with full speed and full creativity, so I have been reading a lot and found some great sites online (including this one) for inspiration for my own build.

There is a popular software called Ultimate Racer that is used for timekeeping / race management and also actually for track design (I cant say i liked that part, I payed for Track Power myself). On their webpage, they have a nice collection of pre-made tracks tho that can be great for inspiration and ideas. They also come sorted by lenght and width and what not, so you can see what others have built in the space that you plan your track on.

Ultimate Racer Layout Archive
 

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For the best digital you need a realy long straight to get a good pits area idealy 5 or 6 straigys long, as for pits you need 1 clear from the corner 1 1/2 for entry 1 or 2 straights for the pits , and 1 /12 for the exit. You could go for a coner pits instead which spreads it out. My opinion is that you need a pits to get the most out of digital i.e refueling and even drive through penalties if you want them.
A straight lange changers (CLC's sound like thay may go out of production) need a 2 1/2 straight minimum. 1 clear of the corner and then the XLC. Armed with this you can have another go.
 

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Hi Mr_DJT ..

I had a quick go with TrackPower and this plan below is aboutish what You can squeeze into two 4'x8's.
The track is angled a wee bit-- thus You can ge a maximum lenght on a straight. But it's also perhaps
visually more interesting track with room for some scenics. The light grey parts should be attachable
when dismantling it. The Fly-Over [from half-straight to cross-over] can be easily routed as one wide
and sweeping fast bend. The lower part can be totally flat. Track lenght close to 14m/45'.

-- ron --

 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
QUOTE (ronMcRain @ 27 Nov 2011, 13:46) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hi Mr_DJT ..

I had a quick go with TrackPower and this plan below is aboutish what You can squeeze into two 4'x8's.
The track is angled a wee bit-- thus You can ge a maximum lenght on a straight. But it's also perhaps
visually more interesting track with room for some scenics. The light grey parts should be attachable
when dismantling it. The Fly-Over [from half-straight to cross-over] can be easily routed as one wide
and sweeping fast bend. The lower part can be totally flat. Track lenght close to 14m/45'.

-- ron --


I like what you've done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok I've got over my Ultimate Racer rage and put this together.

Not bad for my 1st ever (finished) track design, if i don't say so my self.

Thoughts opinions, Criticisms compliments i don't mind happy to hear all.

 

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The only problem I see is that in quite a few places there is no room for borderes. In general they are better than barriers at least for mag less. Never been in favor of non digital cros overs personally. I have two but amost never use them. Just an opertunity to crash with no real gain. Otherwise a good circiut.
 

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ok for an update finally got my ssd set for crimbo so i'm going to start putting this together in the new year.

I've decided to use only what i currently have in stock, hence only using r2 bends.
Also gone for a slightly bigger size 2x, 8 by 5 boards

V2


Thought, comments, criticisms
all welcome
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok new year and now i'm ready to get started.

Ok so the concept is still the same 2 boards which will be folding against the wall, and only 1 half having a fly over to save thickness.

Here are some of the designs as i went through different board sizes.


And this is what i'm settling on (the last on in the pic above)


as you can see there are a number of spaces where i can fit XLC's when i get them.

All i do now is wait for your approval then i can get started.
 

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Greg Gaub
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Hehe, you don't need our approval.
The best thing about plastic is that it's easy to change! Once you've driven around the track, you'll either love it, or want to change it. The former is nice, but the latter is easy enough that it's not a problem.
Build it up and run it for a bit before you nail it down.
If you already have all the track, then just do it.

If you're still wanting my opinion (worth as much as you paid for it ;-)....
If you have to order a lot of track, then I encourage you to get some R3 and R4 bends to add some compound turns in there. All I see are R2 turns. Even the small pieces are half-R2. Stay away from R1 if you want to, but don't go ONLY R2. If all your turns are the same, then driving will get boring since you'll just find the position best for that car, and move to it for all the turns. Bleh. Ron's suggestion might not have as much track on the table as yours, but I think each lap will be more fun on a layout like that than a long series of R2 turns. But, that's me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
QUOTE (MrFlippant @ 13 Jan 2012, 05:17) <{POST_SNAPBACK}>Hehe, you don't need our approval.
The best thing about plastic is that it's easy to change! Once you've driven around the track, you'll either love it, or want to change it. The former is nice, but the latter is easy enough that it's not a problem.
Build it up and run it for a bit before you nail it down.
If you already have all the track, then just do it.

If you're still wanting my opinion (worth as much as you paid for it ;-)....
If you have to order a lot of track, then I encourage you to get some R3 and R4 bends to add some compound turns in there. All I see are R2 turns. Even the small pieces are half-R2. Stay away from R1 if you want to, but don't go ONLY R2. If all your turns are the same, then driving will get boring since you'll just find the position best for that car, and move to it for all the turns. Bleh. Ron's suggestion might not have as much track on the table as yours, but I think each lap will be more fun on a layout like that than a long series of R2 turns. But, that's me.

The only problem is i dont have the room to do a mock up, so once i settle on a design the track will be screwed down and fixed before i can mount the boards on the wall.

Im umming and amming about investing in some different bends, as all the track i have are only R2's, i think i have some old skool banked bends from an old Grand Pix set i think they are R3, i'll see if i can fish them out.
 

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Greg Gaub
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It really depends on what you want out of the track. For me, nothing but the same bend feels too much like "a slot car track", and not a scale race track. I imagine the cars going around at more or less the same speed the entire lap, with maybe a blip on the longest straight. Wider turns (and tighter ones) require you to speed up and slow down within the turns to get the best lap time and win the race, even with magnet racing.

However you nail it down, make sure you can take it up without destroying the track. Even with the best looking plans to start with, no one ever stick with their first layout for very long.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
This was going to be a permanant track. I was going to screw the track down then fill the infill with cloud 9, then I was going to smoth out the gaps in the track with filler, paint its all then copper tape the track.

But some times I hate it when other people are right, I do need some different bends in there, ok back to eBay I go.
 

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If you final track is the last one in post 11 you will have some trouble in digital. It is unfortunate but XLC's need to be a straight clear of the last bend so the car can straighten up befor it hits the LC sensor. The track shown here will not meet this requirement almost anywhere. You have three choices.
Go very slowly round the bend before the XLC (not good). Re desighn so you can get XLC's in (a real pain). Use CLC's as they only need 11/2 straights (only available in R2 and are going out of production: 1 straight and then 1/2 straight sensor track . However but they only come 1 track to another so you need lots and they are not as good as an XLC. They are a bit of a case of "love emor hate em." a bit like R1's. It is an opinion only but you may have got more track than is ideal in the space for speed. Fine for Rally. However my preference is for borders everywhere and running magless. This may be difficult to do and still see most of the critical bits of track. In the end its your decision. Definitely do a temporary set up before you fix it. based on some work I did in theory you could hold the track to the board with magnets. They are now available with 0.5 kg pull. A few on each piece and you could have a semi permanent layout. It really depends on how you "sit" between raceing and scenic aspects.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
There is space for 2 xlcs, it's where I put the cross over track, one on the top under the flyover, ( see v2 for slight view of under the fly over, then just after the pit entrance on the right. I was thinking about 1 on the fly over.

I thought it was 1 straight before CLC and 1/2 for xlc.
1 other option I was considering was to mod the sensor track to have a line of sensors to catch a wagging car.

The problem with setting up a temp track is that I don't have the space to put it up unless it's on this board attached to the wall and foldable.

And with every piece having a power tap, once I drill the board to thread the cable through, that's where I want it to stay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
ok here we are again.

Upon advisement ive purchesed a few diferent bends i have bought 4 x R3's and 8 x R2 banked.

Here is my new layout idea.


Any thoughts or ideas on this new layout?
 
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